How can you take off the blades on a ztr?

hitmanharleyk said:
I have a old time worm gear jack that has to be 30 years old that I welded a socket to the top. I slide it under the front of my mower and use my 1/2" impact to jack the mower up, I then slide a jack stand under it for safety and take the impact underneath to remove the blades. I keep a set sharp hanging on the wall, takes 15 minutes tops to change the blades.
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Using the above method it took me 6 minutes today to change the three blades on my mower today after my compressor built up pressure. I then sharpened the blades I took off and hung them on the wall for their next turn, I rotate 4 sets changing them every 4 or 5 cuts. I rotate the blades under the deck also, so that they wear even because the one furthest from the chute wears out the quickest if I don't.

I also sharpen my blades with a 4 1/2" grinder and a 40 grit sanding disc, it puts a nice edge on the blades with out taking off to much metal thus extending the life of the set.
 
Yikes!

I'm currently looking into buying a Toro MX or SS4260 zero turn mower and discussed changing blades with a salesperson and was told all I had to do to change blades was elevate the deck to it's highest position to get to them. (This is how I change blades on my old Craftsmen lawn tractor, which isn't a zero turn...)

Apparently, this isn't so? Is the deck design too low to do this - thus requiring greater elevation and further purchasing more equipment to perform a blade change out?

Thanks!
 
the dealer is right... it is a royal pain in the ***** tho' , it is easy for you to check tho' , raise the deck to it's highest and then lay down on the floor and check it.
 
bjc said:
It is hard to get much leverage when you are laying down:smile:
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As far as that salesperson telling Abrahamm to change blades all he had to do was elevate the deck to it's highest position to get to them, I'd say I want to talk to someone who actually does the job and knows what's happening. I wish Abrahamm a lot of luck and he better be able to get a lot of leverage. Lawn mower blades are installed at and tighten between 100 and 120 lbs ft. Some how I can't see that happening laying down on the floor with 4.5 inches of clearance, blocks and a bar or even a cheater bar.
 
Ric your absolutely correct... I did not even like doing it with 12-18 inches... I disliked it so much I bought a mower that had features so i would never have to.
 
You fellas have a world of experience I don't possess.

So, if I'm reading it right, zero turn blades are installed so tightly the average man (me) has to have an impact wrench set up (I don't) to loosen the blades enough to get them off?

And, once the blades are changed, (assuming you can even get them off at home) you have to have special equipment to re-tighten the nuts to spec.?

If this is so, and I have to return my mower to the dealer to change out blades, I'll be re-thinking the whole idea of buying a zero turn mower.

As it is, I swap out the blades on my lawn tractor every 25 hours or so. Which I'm able to do at home, no sweat, and I don't worry about using a torque wrench. I just tighten by hand what I feel is tight enough and away I go... As much as I mow, it isn't feasible to bring the entire mower to the dealer every time this is needed - or am I not reading this subject correctly?

Thoughts?
 
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