Honda Commercial HRA216-SXA revival, lots of pics

[robert@honda]

So I would need 2 x 21521-VB5-801? It is not a bearing, rather a bushing?

Description says it is a bushing...shop manual does not provide a spec or service limit, but video seems to verify worn bushings, but I can't say for 100% certainty.

and 2 x 91205-VB5-801 oil seals?

Probably, as they are likely the original seals. There are many other seals on the input and axle shaft, and if it was me, and I was rebuilding the trans., I'd put in all new ones for sure, to head off any possible leaks in the future.

You should get a shop manual if digging into the trans. It's not complex, but can save a lot of frustration, especially when you are doing a full-on restore/overall on a machine like this. Honda sells paper copies online direct ($35, free shipping)

Amazon: Honda-HRA216-HRC215-HRC216-Service Manual

eBay: Honda-HRA216-HRC215-HRC216-Service Manual

 

[freeloader700]

I picked up a shop manual from eBay and it should be here tomorrow. I ordered it yesterday morning directly from Honda via eBay and I had a tracking # within 10 mins. I am very impressed at the speed of the processing. Once I get it I will start taking apart the transmission case and see whats going on in there. Is it normally grease or gear oil in these things? I have seen some of the newer Hondas using grease.

 

[robert@honda]

I picked up a shop manual from eBay and it should be here tomorrow. I ordered it yesterday morning directly from Honda via eBay and I had a tracking # within 10 mins. I am very impressed at the speed of the processing. Once I get it I will start taking apart the transmission case and see whats going on in there. Is it normally grease or gear oil in these things? I have seen some of the newer Hondas using grease.

The HRA216SXA transmission is filled with SAE 90 hypoid gear oil, available at any auto parts store. Completely drained, it holds a maximum of 130cc (0.14 quart).

 

[freeloader700]

Thanks Robert.

I will try to get some pics of the progress I made off and on the last couple of days. The deck it just about done welded/filled. Had some issues with burning through when I was welding. Just need to used the grinder and smooth out some of the welds then it will be ready for paint

 

[freeloader700]

Here is the next round of pictures. I have various parts ready for paint. Here is what I am using. The slip plate wasn't actually used yet.



Primed with self-etching then sandable primer



Black engine paint





Cutting out the rusted hole. Welded it up and then had some issues



Ended up needing to cut out a bit more since I was burning though and it was a bit thin. I cut out the left side a bit more.



Welded in the new small piece



Welded up....it is not pretty!



Time to clean it up with the grinder




That is where I am at so far. Almost there and ready to paint the deck. Maybe in the next few days

 

[OutdoorEnvy]

:thumbsup:

Nice progress man! She's coming a long nicely

 

[freeloader700]

She definitely is!

So, I don't have time right now to get the pics/vids up from today. I do have this one though for a quick confirmation I do not need a new axle. One of the inner bushing was completely missing, there was no oil either. What do you all think? You might need to turn up the volume

 

[Ryan Rognstad]

That looks like a ton of fun man nice welds by the way wish I had that kind of time on my hands.

 

[freeloader700]

Holy flap disc Batman, those things work wonders!!! I wish I would have discovered these things a lot earlier. Using 60 grit flap disc on my grinder. It just tears through the rust

Look how shiny =)



The weld is smoothed out now but....I keep burning though! I am thinking I am going to have to cut out that area and weld in some new metal.




Close up



You can almost eat off the bottom of this thing



Close up of the weld underneath. I had to put another little piece for extra support. I want to smoothen it out a bit



Its incredible that the rear guard came so clean, even with how much rust was on there.

 

[freeloader700]

To pull apart the case first drain the fluid. Remove the 10mm bolt. Drain. Then remove the other 8mm bolts for the case




Then pry it open with a flat head screw driver or similar



Then slide the axle out of the case. Next, remove the washers from both sides





Now to work on the case itself. It had no gear oil in it. Just the residue you see is what was in it. I cleaned up the shifter side here



A few minor blemished from the years of use



The shifter seal looks okay.



And now the gooey mess...



The rust is probably from me washing the assembly a week ago. I am guessing that it got in through the bad axle seal.





Now to remove the drive shaft from the motor, Slide the rubber o-ring away from the dust boot, then pull the boot off. Next is to remove the squeeze clip then tap out the pin that holds the assembly to the pinion



The pull out the 1st and 2nd gears with their shaft. At this point you can swing up the engagement piece and pull out the bottom gear






Alright! Its all out. All cleaned up. Here are some shots of the gears and what not





This shifter spring has seen some better days



There is a little bit of wear on the washer for the main gear. I will reuse it



Pinion shows some wear but not too bad.



Main gear looks really good still



1st gear is just fine



2nd gear lookis great as well. A little bit of a shine where the washer goes



and the engagement piece











This is the remains of the bushing.......



Clearly you can see a bushing on the left and one missing on the right




Pinion needle bearing is pretty worn. You can feel a bit of a hesitation when spinning it



Axle gears in pretty good shape




Lastly, the grooves in the axle from the destroyed bushing







All in all...this thing is coming along. I will be putting together a full tear down/rebuild of the transmission video after I get my new seals and parts in. That will be something you all might want to see. You are all now update to date on the progress. Cheers