Hit a stump, mower died, need help troubleshooting please.

[Boudreaux In Eunice La.]

No AF the flywheel can stay on..... Only the sump cover needs to come off to check every thing.........

Undo the 2 bolts holding the intake manifold on and a flip of the wrist will take the rod and spring off..... Take a pic of that where it goes to the control area.......

You will need to take the cable or cables off for the throttle and choke..... Mark with a sharpie on the cable where it goes in the clamp..... Both if needed...

Engine will come out with nothing attached like that..... Assuming you have the gas lines off........

I think I forgot to say something, but I think we got you on the right track ~!~!

Let us know Mon Ami ~!~!

 

[Luffydog]

Check your flywheel key because if your turning the flywheel and it is just spinning on the crankshaft prob causes your issues. To work on the camshaft don't have to pull the flywheel but do need to check the flywheel key.

 

[Boudreaux In Eunice La.]

Oops I did forget something.......... T30 on the exhaust bolts....

And a torque wrench for the sump bolts and the head bolts........

I seen the picture on POST #1 and your flywheel key is intact......

Luffy Dog mentioned that in the post before this one at 9:22 PM .....

 

[EngineMan]

If there is any damaged on the camshaft gear pic 46 is what you are looking for, just take your time, make notes and take photos.

 

[AFProdigy]

Thanks, everyone! You are all wonderful! I really appreciate your help!

I got as far as disconnecting an electrical harness and fuel line last night. It was pretty late when I got around to it. The bolt that holds on the belt guide is on there real tight. I want to make sure it is ok to be wrenching on that real hard. Anything I need to worry about with that? I don't want to accidentally break or bend anything. I have to go get that T30 bit today.

Yes, I did check the flywheel key already. One of the first things I checked.

I am taking lots of pictures and video as I go. :wink:

 

[EngineMan]

Give the bolt (nut) some WD40 use a good socket set and a long bar....it will come.

 

[AFProdigy]

The exhaust removal required a T45 star bit. But the initial advise for a T30 was a good starting point and helped me quickly figure out it was a T45. :wink:

I got the belt bolt off and everything else. Engine is out and up on my work bench.

On to the intense stuff... fingers crossed!

 

[AFProdigy]

The verdict is in...

The spring loaded arm on the camshaft and timing gear broke off. Here are some pictures I have been taking:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Ykv_i3lY8EdsxUb1V-03SuKnyTpHQAiW?usp=sharing

What is the best way to clean out the engine compartment to make sure there is no metal debris in there?

Do you guys torque the bolts on the crank case with a torque wrench to spec, or do you just put them on tight with a regular socket wrench?

Also, it looks like they had some red loctite on the oil plug. Should I put the blue loctite on it or leave it as is?

Just to confirm, this should be all I need to put it all back together?

Loctite 37566 Silver-Grade Anti-Seize Lubricant, 1 lb (Brushtop) by Loctite

Briggs & Stratton 30W Engine Oil - 48 Oz. 100028

Loctite Heavy Duty Threadlocker, 0.2 oz, Blue 242, Single

Permatex 81950 Ultra Slick Engine Assembly Lube, 4 oz.

Performance Tool W80528 26 Blade Standard Feeler Gauge

Briggs & Stratton 796187 Engine Gasket Set Replaces 794150/792621/697191

Briggs & Stratton 793880 Camshaft Replaces 793583/792681/791942/795102

Briggs & Stratton # 697128 GEAR-TIMING

Briggs & Stratton 394358S Fuel Filter Assembly 75 Micron

 

[EngineMan]

I use lamp oil for cleaning (what we call here paraffin) make sure that the crankshaft woodruff key is level when you put it back...! (see one of your photos)

I think this is the right settings for that engine.....if not am sure someone here will soon say.........

Valve clearance IN .003-.005 EX .005-.007
Flywheel nut 100 ft lbs
Cylinder head 220 in lbs
Crankcase cover 180 in lbs
Air gap (armature) .010-.014

DO NOT OVER DO THE NUTS snug up the head bolts evenly and in sequence. if you don't have a torque wrench, then like you say use a socket wrench, just make sure they are down the same...!

 

[AFProdigy]

I use lamp oil for cleaning (what we call here paraffin) make sure that the crankshaft woodruff key is level when you put it back...! (see one of your photos)

I think this is the right settings for that engine.....if not am sure someone here will soon say.........

Valve clearance IN .003-.005 EX .005-.007
Flywheel nut 100 ft lbs
Cylinder head 220 in lbs
Crankcase cover 180 in lbs
Air gap (armature) .010-.014

DO NOT OVER DO THE NUTS snug up the head bolts evenly and in sequence. if you don't have a torque wrench, then like you say use a socket wrench, just make sure they are down the same...!

Thanks! I saw someone mention mineral spirits and also brake cleaner for cleaning. Is that ok too? I do have brake cleaner.

I found the crankshaft woodruff key you mentioned. It feels very slightly scratched on the side and is wedged in that slot pretty good. Should I order a new one or just get that one back in? It seems wedged in there sort of tight. What is the best method for getting it back in (and removing if need be)?