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Hit a stump, mower died, need help troubleshooting please.
- Thread starter AFProdigy
- Start date
This mower was originally my dads. He had bypassed the brake and seat safety switches that tell the mower to shut down by inserting jumpers into the wire clips (female end). He did that a long time ago because any bump or lifting on the seat would cause the safety to trigger and kill the mower. I inspected those jumpers and they are still intact and look ok. He suggested that maybe I reconnect these safety wires in case they are causing the no-start problem. Could that be a possibility? I thought that if those safety features were triggered, the mower would not crank at all. Am I correct in that assumption? The jumpers have always worked and never caused a problem.
bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
You are barking up the wrong tree.
If you are getting a spark, and the engine is cranking all of the safety switches or switch bypasses are in order.
Thus you are left with 2 or 3 possibilities
1) spark at wrong time
2) fuel solenoid not opening
3) valve problem
forcing the engine to stop abruptly will not cause a problem for the shut off solenoid and you can sort of test it by turning the ignition on and off ( do not crank the engine )
You should be able to hear the little click from near the carb or put your finger on the carb solenoid and feel it energising.
Now 1 & 3 can both be caused by an abrupt stop.
You have already eliminated ( partially ) number 1 by a visual check of the key way slots. If they formed a perfect square then the key should be intact.
This leaves you with No 3
Back in reply # 7 you were given instructions on how to do it and again in post # 10 you were advised to check it again.
While waiting for the weather to clear pop over to You tube and search for pushrod replacements and valve lash adjustments .
Suggest you search on the Donnyboy73 and Taryl fixes all channels as you can trust their videos
If you are getting a spark, and the engine is cranking all of the safety switches or switch bypasses are in order.
Thus you are left with 2 or 3 possibilities
1) spark at wrong time
2) fuel solenoid not opening
3) valve problem
forcing the engine to stop abruptly will not cause a problem for the shut off solenoid and you can sort of test it by turning the ignition on and off ( do not crank the engine )
You should be able to hear the little click from near the carb or put your finger on the carb solenoid and feel it energising.
Now 1 & 3 can both be caused by an abrupt stop.
You have already eliminated ( partially ) number 1 by a visual check of the key way slots. If they formed a perfect square then the key should be intact.
This leaves you with No 3
Back in reply # 7 you were given instructions on how to do it and again in post # 10 you were advised to check it again.
While waiting for the weather to clear pop over to You tube and search for pushrod replacements and valve lash adjustments .
Suggest you search on the Donnyboy73 and Taryl fixes all channels as you can trust their videos
Ok.... I went out to do more troubleshooting today. I first tried spraying carburetor fuel into the intake at the same time as turning the ignition. This was recommended to me by a mechanic. The first time I did it, I sprayed and then turned the ignition. He said I needed to spray while turning the ignition.
When I tried to do that, I realized the battery was dead. I think the freezing temps out in the yard killed it. Since I had just charged it recently, I tested it with the voltage meter. Battery was not holding a charge after using the battery charger and a single cranked depleted it quickly. So, I bought a new battery and installed it. Cranking smooth again, but still won't start.
I tried the carburetor fuel again in the intake while turning ignition. Still no combustion. No change at all while doing that.
Here is an updated video with the new battery. Sounds pretty much like the first video, but stronger cranking.
https://youtu.be/DZ1XuUomj-4
I was checking out the valve cover and getting ready to take it off. As someone else said, they used sealant around the edges, so I will have to get more sealant and a new gasket as advised. I don't want to break that open until I get that. Can anyone tell me what type of sealant that is? I did watch some videos and now believe I know what the push rods are. I will check things out in there.
On the plus side, I got the brake to unlock. I used a wrench to tap on the caliper and the bar that activates the caliper. It released and we were able to push the mower into the garage.
When I tried to do that, I realized the battery was dead. I think the freezing temps out in the yard killed it. Since I had just charged it recently, I tested it with the voltage meter. Battery was not holding a charge after using the battery charger and a single cranked depleted it quickly. So, I bought a new battery and installed it. Cranking smooth again, but still won't start.
I tried the carburetor fuel again in the intake while turning ignition. Still no combustion. No change at all while doing that.
Here is an updated video with the new battery. Sounds pretty much like the first video, but stronger cranking.
https://youtu.be/DZ1XuUomj-4
I was checking out the valve cover and getting ready to take it off. As someone else said, they used sealant around the edges, so I will have to get more sealant and a new gasket as advised. I don't want to break that open until I get that. Can anyone tell me what type of sealant that is? I did watch some videos and now believe I know what the push rods are. I will check things out in there.
On the plus side, I got the brake to unlock. I used a wrench to tap on the caliper and the bar that activates the caliper. It released and we were able to push the mower into the garage.
bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
On the plus side, I got the brake to unlock. I used a wrench to tap on the caliper and the bar that activates the caliper. It released and we were able to push the mower into the garage.
Take the wheel off, pull the brake apart, and clean it.
There are 2 little pins in there that are prone to rusting so a jambing brake will be an ongoing problem.
Do not touch the centre bolt, that is for adjusting the brake, just the 2 small ones either side
On the caliper side will be a brake pad, a spacer/ shim and 2 sliding pins ( these are what applies the brake )
On the gearbox side will be just the pad which may or may not have a shim behind it.
While the wheel is off, clean the rust off the axel and apply some grease thinly ( I use marine grease ).
Both wheels should come off every few years to stop them rusting on.
Take the wheel off, pull the brake apart, and clean it.
There are 2 little pins in there that are prone to rusting so a jambing brake will be an ongoing problem.
Do not touch the centre bolt, that is for adjusting the brake, just the 2 small ones either side
On the caliper side will be a brake pad, a spacer/ shim and 2 sliding pins ( these are what applies the brake )
On the gearbox side will be just the pad which may or may not have a shim behind it.
While the wheel is off, clean the rust off the axel and apply some grease thinly ( I use marine grease ).
Both wheels should come off every few years to stop them rusting on.
I watched a video of someone taking the caliper off. It looks quite similar to automotive brakes (which I have changed many times), but a bit different. It all makes sense. Am I correct in thinking that there is only one break on one side of the axle? I looked underneath (without lifting it) and it looked like there was only one caliper/brake that stops the whole thing.
bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
I watched a video of someone taking the caliper off. It looks quite similar to automotive brakes (which I have changed many times), but a bit different. It all makes sense. Am I correct in thinking that there is only one break on one side of the axle? I looked underneath (without lifting it) and it looked like there was only one caliper/brake that stops the whole thing.
The brake is on the lay shaft as per reply no # 7.
It is not on the axel so yes there is only 1 per mower although some parts break downs show 2 because some are fitted left side & others are shown right side.
No piston the lever has a crease making it V shaped and the sides of the V push against the brake pads all 1/2" x 1/4" of them.