CV15S cylinder damage

I have done this before. I have no control what other people do or the decisions they make. Some people are scared of their own shadow. Once people found out I worked on mowers, they were coming from other counties looking for me and I didn't advertise anywhere. I have a parts supplier.
 
bertsmobile1 said:
cranks get dumped in warm 1/2 strength pool acid or boiled in caustic soda, both will strip off the built up alloy
Check for roundness , rare to find one oval
check the bottom of the cam shaft boss carefully for cracks at both ends, common for them to crack, usually at the sump end
Give all crank journals a very light polish , do not worry about groves, they become oil channels but ridges need removing
Beg borrow or go to a repair shop& have a bottle brush hone 100 to 160 grit run through the bore, most shops will do that while you wait for $ 20
Some car parts stores will hire out a hone & micrometer + tension wrench is you need them
Fit new std rings .
FWIW I ride vintage & veteran motorcycles.
Most have a pressed in cylinder liner and it is common for them to slip & rotate in the bore so the con rod punched out the sides .
Right now i have 1916 500cc wherer all of the spiggot has been chopped away by the con rod.
It runs fine
Click to expand...
It's not that hard to figure out except for those who have not done this kind of work with engines.
 
I think what Bert refers to as pool acid is Muriatic Acid if so then using it can be dangerous until done outdoors with good ventilation. It produces toxic fumes when exposed to moisture in the air. But will remove aluminum transfer from the crankshaft journals. Once the aluminum is remove the acid must be neutralized with water and the part immediately oiled or greased because if you don't the crankshaft will flash rust and continue rusting. Also keep all metals out of the area as they can flash rust just from the fumes off the Muriatic Acid.

As I noted the toxic fumes can take your breathe away so be extremely careful using Muriatic Acid.
 
You need to closely inspect the areas where the camshaft rides, as you may very well see cracks there, and your expensive repair would crumble in short order.
As far as being scared, well. Working on this stuff for a living, I have found folks that had bad results go out of their way to let everyone know it, forever.

I want my repairs to be good, and lasting, and well worth the money invested.
I save repairs like this for my own stuff usually, in an experimental way..
 
Fish that is part of the learning process. You do experimental repairs on your own equipment as most customer expect a lot more then can't accept it when something this fails. I don't attempt repairs on customers machines on the experimental side; unless, I have already proven to myself that it works or recommend by the manufacture.

Basically it is training ourselves how to do the repairs correctly. Personally I would like a pro looking over my shoulder and providing guidance than going on my own but most shops around here are afraid they going to lose business if they help out a learning tech. It is a shame in a way as many skills never get passed along.

It is like the diesel mechanic along the state line came up here Saturday with a fairly new compressor. He a customer of his brought in after only ran 30 minutes. He was lost when it came gasoline engines. I let him watch me troubleshoot and repair the problem. His customer had put in bad fuel which clogged the carburetor. The diesel said will bring work for me as he simply don't the time or the equipment do that kind of work. And personally I don't the strength to work the big stuff anymore.
 
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StarTech said:
Fish that is part of the learning process. You do experimental repairs on your own equipment as most customer expect a lot more then can't accept it when something this fails. I don't attempt repairs on customers machines on the experimental side; unless, I have already proven to myself that it works or recommend by the manufacture.

Basically it is training ourselves how to do the repairs correctly. Personally I would like a pro looking over my shoulder and providing guidance than going on my own but most shops around here are afraid they going to lose business if they help out a learning tech. It is a shame in a way as many skills never get passed along.

It is like the diesel mechanic along the state line came up here Saturday with a fairly new compressor. He a customer of his brought in after only ran 30 minutes. He was lost when it came gasoline engines. I let him watch me troubleshoot and repair the problem. His customer had put in bad fuel which clogged the carburetor. The diesel said will bring work for me as he simply don't the time or the equipment do that kind of work. And personally I don't the strength to work the big stuff anymore.
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My 5 years of working on tractor/trailers helped me quickly have a distaste for winter.
 
Fish said:
You need to closely inspect the areas where the camshaft rides, as you may very well see cracks there, and your expensive repair would crumble in short order.
As far as being scared, well. Working on this stuff for a living, I have found folks that had bad results go out of their way to let everyone know it, forever.

I want my repairs to be good, and lasting, and well worth the money invested.
I save repairs like this for my own stuff usually, in an experimental way..
Click to expand...
There is a reason people would bring their lawn equipment to me. The guy in town would charge them just to look at it and it would cost them dearly for a simple fix and they didn't even get a kiss.
 
bertsmobile1 said:
cranks get dumped in warm 1/2 strength pool acid or boiled in caustic soda, both will strip off the built up alloy
Check for roundness , rare to find one oval
check the bottom of the cam shaft boss carefully for cracks at both ends, common for them to crack, usually at the sump end
Give all crank journals a very light polish , do not worry about groves, they become oil channels but ridges need removing
Beg borrow or go to a repair shop& have a bottle brush hone 100 to 160 grit run through the bore, most shops will do that while you wait for $ 20
Some car parts stores will hire out a hone & micrometer + tension wrench is you need them
Fit new std rings .
FWIW I ride vintage & veteran motorcycles.
Most have a pressed in cylinder liner and it is common for them to slip & rotate in the bore so the con rod punched out the sides .
Right now i have 1916 500cc wherer all of the spiggot has been chopped away by the con rod.
It runs fine
Click to expand...
Mix up a solution of red devil lye and water, it will do the same thing if you can still get it since they say it is used to make drugs
 
hlw49 said:
Mix up a solution of red devil lye and water, it will do the same thing if you can still get it since they say it is used to make drugs
Click to expand...
same animal NaOH / Sodium Hydoxide / Caustic Soda / Lye / Washing soda , used to the active ingredient in most drain cleaners to break up the fat balls & hair.
also a favourite way of making bodies vanish
 
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