Cub Cadet spindle parts maintenance/replacement

Same parts...And yes both cone and cups needs replace any time one or the other is replaced due to wear. Normal when buying after market they come as a set. I have seen cups Now I have the cups so worn it was nearly impossible to drive them out.

Currently I pay $3.90 per set from my bearing supplier. Of course shipping is added as they are shipped. I keep enough set on hand that I can use snail mail at a lower cost.
 
StarTech said:
Currently I pay $3.90 per set from my bearing supplier. Of course shipping is added as they are shipped. I keep enough set on hand that I can use snail mail at a lower cost.
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My bearing supplier, Amazon, isn't quite that cheap. One bearing is about $9. One cup... about the same. I DID find 4 sets of Timkin bearings & cups for $35. Not quite as good as your prices, but better than $18 per set. Or $150 per spindle.
 
GearHead36 said:
My bearing supplier, Amazon, isn't quite that cheap. One bearing is about $9. One cup... about the same. I DID find 4 sets of Timkin bearings & cups for $35. Not quite as good as your prices, but better than $18 per set. Or $150 per spindle.
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You should grease the mower more often than once a year. Any play, or noise in bearings inside the spindle assembly will make the mower deck louder when engaged. Eventually, they will wear out. Easier to simply replace the entire spindle unless you have the time to pound or press in and out all the bearings.
 
These are commonly use trailer and automotive bearings and should last for years as long they are kept greased.

And some of us do than a little more energy and time then others. Over the last 15 yrs I had only spindle that I could not the cups out of but they were worn down pass the recess hole lip on a set of Scag spindles. It does modifying a chisel to get at the lip of the cup at times. The last set I changed was nearly impossible to get out due wear. Just had figure out how to grind the chisel to do this. For me since I knew it comes out, It was me or it that gave up and I was very insist it that it came out.

Plus some customers don't have as deep of pockets money wise.
 
Tiger Small Engine said:
You should grease the mower more often than once a year.
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I'm not sure why, but last year, I only put about 30 hrs on it. I think the manual calls for service every 25 hrs. So I didn't think it needed it. However, the air pre-filter, which is also supposed to serviced every 25 hrs, was caked with dirt, so maybe it was a hard 30 hrs. This year, I have some help. My wife has taken over the mowing with this mower. We are on pace for many more hours, so I'll likely start greasing it more than once a year.

I don't think the problem was not greasing it often enough. I don't think the grease was making it to the bearings. I've figured out how to fix that. The bearings lasted 400 hrs without proper maintenance. I suspect that a proper servicing every 100 hrs would be an improvement over what it's had in the past. Last year when I serviced it, all the deck rollers were almost rusted tight. I suspect those had never been greased.

I'm glad we're using it more. When I found out that I only put 30 hrs on it last year, I questioned whether I really needed a commercial mower.
 
StarTech said:
These are commonly use trailer and automotive bearings and should last for years as long they are kept greased.

And some of us do than a little more energy and time then others. Over the last 15 yrs I had only spindle that I could not the cups out of but they were worn down pass the recess hole lip on a set of Scag spindles. It does modifying a chisel to get at the lip of the cup at times. The last set I changed was nearly impossible to get out due wear. Just had figure out how to grind the chisel to do this. For me since I knew it comes out, It was me or it that gave up and I was very insist it that it came out.

Plus some customers don't have as deep of pockets money wise.
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Thanks.

My garage now is one I inherited from my dad, with all his tools (that haven't walked off). It's a professional garage. He was a professional mechanic. I searched for punches the other day for removing bearings, and found a tool that looks perfect for the job. It's like a chisel with a kink in it, making it easier to get to the side where you need to hit on the bearing or race. After thinking about it a bit, I realized that I don't need to worry about not damaging the internals of the spindle. What would get damaged in removing the races is not a bearing surface, or a bearing mating surface. I have a spare spindle now, I can experiment until I figure out what works.
 
Now this is best way to learn what is needed to done. You're not pushed to get it done and give time to learn how to remove these worn cups. Hands on is some best learning you can do. It will stick with you especially if it is difficult to get done but most cups comes fairly easy it is just the badly worn ones that are a pain to get out.
 
StarTech said:
Now this is best way to learn what is needed to done. You're not pushed to get it done and give time to learn how to remove these worn cups. Hands on is some best learning you can do. It will stick with you especially if it is difficult to get done but most cups comes fairly easy it is just the badly worn ones that are a pain to get out.
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I agree. I learn best by doing it myself.

The new spindle was just delivered. It came with a pulley, which I didn't expect. (y)

Great, given that it wasn't scheduled for delivery until Monday. Not sure it will make any difference, though. It's been raining for 3 days. Won't be able to mow today or probably tomorrow either.

Does anyone have torque specs for the spindle bolts and blade nuts?
 
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