Cub Cadet spindle parts maintenance/replacement

[Silver Wolf]

Recently, I decided to do some deck maintenance on my Cub Cadet Pro Z 100. Two of the spindles (p/n 918-07255) seemed pretty solid. No play in any direction. Before greasing, though, they made a bit of noise when turning the blades. After greasing, they got quiet. The 3rd spindle... had vertical and lateral play. I figure that it's toast, so I ordered a new one. I figure that the housing is worn. Even if it's not, it's not a bad idea to have a spare. But a spindle is just over $150. Yikes! So I want to make sure the other two last.

I've been greasing them every year, but I wasn't getting enough grease in there. This time, I put in grease until it started coming out, and it came out through the bearings. I'm sure that the bearings have grease now. At least, on the good spindles. I didn't see a need to waste grease on the bad one.

The bearings on the "good" spindles got quiet once they got filled with grease, but not before that. Should I replace them? If so, how do I determine the p/n for the bearings I need?

The bearings are not sealed. The spindles have seals that must come out to be able to remove the bearings. See photo.View attachment 70937

There's one on the other end of the spindle, too. Can they be removed without damage? I tried prying on them, but couldn't get one out. I was afraid to pry any harder. Are the seals available separately? If so... p/n?

BTW, the mower has about 400 hrs on it. I suspect the spindles do too, but I bought it used, so I can't be sure.

My original spindles did not have the zerk fittings, but my e-bay China replacement ones did. If pumping grease into spindles and greese starts to come out stop. Pressure can build in the spindle and blow the seal out. The main cause of spindle failure is the blades hiting branches, limbs and rocks. Also, do not clean under the deck with what CC name "smart jet" which will force water past the spindle seal and into the bearing. Throw that smart jet away..

I have the Cub Cadet China built 20hp Koler courage engine. You have to have courage to own a courage engine. I have bought 8 Chinese carbs, 2 starters, endless mower driven belts, several drive belts and front tires, several spindles and it uses oil like you wont believe. Had a friend weld my mowers deck where welds broke and metal fatigued. I had to become a mower mechanic to own it. I want a zero turn mower, but Cub Cadels are the cheapest and they have soured me.

I had a John Deere mower, the 120 series, less than $3500 and it is a piece of crap with a green paint job. Replaced spindles contantly, electrical problems. The tuff torque transmission was great and the twin cylinder B&S 25 hp engine was great, but used a lot of gas. My deck rusted out and I had to trash and bought my Cub Cadet. The best riding mower I have had was a Lowes brand which was build by Noma, Noma build the mowers for Graingers also. They got bought out. It had a a twin cylinder Vanguard B&S engine and had the old hydrostatic transmission which bolted on to the rear differential. Replaced the deck which was under $100, which I took to work and unbolted all the stuff off old deck and put on new one with new fastners from work. 10 years old and someone stoled it beside my house in the daytime. I don't know how they did it. I have a long driveway and the road is very steep. Anyway, my insurance paid out and I bought the John Deere.

Keeping a spindle as a spare is a good ideal. I had bought 2, 5 years ago and only used one when I had bought them. Spare blades, bought 2 sets, new and used carbs, 3 mower belts, drive belts, air, oil and fuel filter, spark plug, 30 weight oil. I use a fuel shut off on the fuel line because the needle and seat fails and there are not kits that you can buy. If I don"t shut off the gas, my crankcase will fill with gas and the gas of 3.5 gal will run out the air filter, but that is the carb that runs the best. There are no adjustments or jets. Thank EPA and China for that.

 

[Gord Baker]

To be 100% sure need the model number from serial number tag but the following is for middle of pack model.

Bearing should be LM11949 cones with LM11910 cups. BTW 741-04129 cones are superseded to 941-04129 which supersedes to 941-04298 cones with cups being 941-04299. These common tapered bearings sets. Even you local auto parts store has them.

The seals are 921-3018A (Rotary 12535).

The Cup and Cone LM numbers are Timken tapered Roller Bearing Numbers. I worked in the St. Thomas Ontario plant in the '60's grinding the OD of Cones. 3,600 per shift, one at a time!

 

[Gord Baker]

The Cup and Cone LM numbers are Timken tapered Roller Bearing Numbers. I worked in the St. Thomas Ontario plant in the '60's grinding the OD of Cones. 3,600 per shift, one at a time!

 

[justin@justintime]

Those are tapered bearings for starters, but think you figured that out I just skim read. Thats a nice set up. almost pro grade. Yes the seals come out and should be rather generic Seals can be bought by size many times, size is listed right with OEM part numbers. Depending on how the mandrel is set up, the blade, or pulley or both nut torque matters. I would look up the torque spec. Looking at the pics Id say one blade took a good wack or overtorqued. They are the same type of bearings used on all your trailer wheels and the old timer rule of thumb on those is get pretty darn tight then back it of a quarter turn. I wouldn't recommend that approach to aluminum housing spindle bearings. Torque matters on tapered bearings and so does grease is the take away on all that.

 

[SeniorCitizen]

With a tapered roller bearing it's obvious there is something wrong when the temperature of a hub is higher than others . Also the r.p.m. of the blade and a automotive wheel is different by a large margin . To keep a blade roller bearing operable that's a real good idea to grease
often .

 

[Ozcub]

As the book says Grease is cheap parts are not

 

[GearHead36]

Thats a nice set up. almost pro grade.

CC claims that it's a commercial unit. That year, they offered a Pro Z 100, 500, and 900. I consider mine to be "entry-level commercial" or maybe prosumer. Still, almost overkill for residential use.

Looking at the pics Id say one blade took a good wack or overtorqued.

Don't go by that photo. I mangled the bearing, and maybe the spindle trying to get it apart. So I just bought a new one. I understand how it's made now. After getting informed by this discussion, I also ordered bearings and seals, so I can repair the others if needed.

They are the same type of bearings used on all your trailer wheels and the old timer rule of thumb on those is get pretty darn tight then back it of a quarter turn. I wouldn't recommend that approach to aluminum housing spindle bearings. Torque matters on tapered bearings and so does grease is the take away on all that.

The bearing spacing is set by spacers. I checked them after tightening the blade nuts, and it didn't seem to matter how tight I got it. On trailers, and some older vehicles, tapered bearings get preloaded, which is set by a nut, which usually, as you mentioned, get torqued, then backed off. I have a 2000 Ford Ranger that has front wheel bearings like this. That's not how this spindle is designed.

 

[GearHead36]

With a tapered roller bearing it's obvious there is something wrong when the temperature of a hub is higher than others . Also the r.p.m. of the blade and a automotive wheel is different by a large margin . To keep a blade roller bearing operable that's a real good idea to grease
often .

I never mentioned a temperature difference anywhere. Where are you getting this? I plan on keeping it well greased.

 

[Gord Baker]

My original spindles did not have the zerk fittings, but my e-bay China replacement ones did. If pumping grease into spindles and greese starts to come out stop. Pressure can build in the spindle and blow the seal out. The main cause of spindle failure is the blades hiting branches, limbs and rocks. Also, do not clean under the deck with what CC name "smart jet" which will force water past the spindle seal and into the bearing. Throw that smart jet away..

I have the Cub Cadet China built 20hp Koler courage engine. You have to have courage to own a courage engine. I have bought 8 Chinese carbs, 2 starters, endless mower driven belts, several drive belts and front tires, several spindles and it uses oil like you wont believe. Had a friend weld my mowers deck where welds broke and metal fatigued. I had to become a mower mechanic to own it. I want a zero turn mower, but Cub Cadels are the cheapest and they have soured me.

I had a John Deere mower, the 120 series, less than $3500 and it is a piece of crap with a green paint job. Replaced spindles contantly, electrical problems. The tuff torque transmission was great and the twin cylinder B&S 25 hp engine was great, but used a lot of gas. My deck rusted out and I had to trash and bought my Cub Cadet. The best riding mower I have had was a Lowes brand which was build by Noma, Noma build the mowers for Graingers also. They got bought out. It had a a twin cylinder Vanguard B&S engine and had the old hydrostatic transmission which bolted on to the rear differential. Replaced the deck which was under $100, which I took to work and unbolted all the stuff off old deck and put on new one with new fastners from work. 10 years old and someone stoled it beside my house in the daytime. I don't know how they did it. I have a long driveway and the road is very steep. Anyway, my insurance paid out and I bought the John Deere.

Keeping a spindle as a spare is a good ideal. I had bought 2, 5 years ago and only used one when I had bought them. Spare blades, bought 2 sets, new and used carbs, 3 mower belts, drive belts, air, oil and fuel filter, spark plug, 30 weight oil. I use a fuel shut off on the fuel line because the needle and seat fails and there are not kits that you can buy. If I don"t shut off the gas, my crankcase will fill with gas and the gas of 3.5 gal will run out the air filter, but that is the carb that runs the best. There are no adjustments or jets. Thank EPA and China for that.

Sounds like you should hire a Lawn Care Service.

 

[SeniorCitizen]

I've felt of a few bearings similar to what you are dealing with on trailers , front wheels on a 48 Ford and have retired from the natural gas compression industry , so i'm not the kid that hasn't been around the block . I just thought my experience might help in the future but I see it's just irritating you .