Confused

[Bobby Boyd]

I have a scag turf tiger 61 inch cut. I want to sharpen the blades. Do I unscrew the bolts from underneath the deck or from the top where the pulleys are? Manual doesnt really say much about changing blades.

Thanks for your replies.

-bobby

 

[Ric]

I have a scag turf tiger 61 inch cut. I want to sharpen the blades. Do I unscrew the bolts from underneath the deck or from the top where the pulleys are? Manual doesnt really say much about changing blades.

Thanks for your replies.

-bobby

Question, are they nuts and spindles on the bottom or are they on top of the deck? If there on top you'll remove the nuts there, if there on the bottom you'd remove them from the bottom. If the spindles are on top most likely they would be like a walk behind and the nuts would be removed off the top and you'll slide something like a nine inch bolt out the bottom to remove the blades and don't worry it wont hurt the spindle, just make sure that the spacers go back in the same order if you have them. That was what I had to do on the G1336 walk behind. If the spindles are under neath the deck you'll just remove the nut there and drop the blade.

 

[Mad Mackie]

The blade bolts are 9 1/2" long, pass up thru the spindle and are secured by a nut that is at the top of the spindle. I use an air impact tool to remove the nuts and let the blades drop to the floor. The front of the machine needs to be raised up so the blade bolts can drop out of the spindles. The reverse is to torque the blade bolt nuts to 75 FTLBs dry. Make sure that you put the blades back in correctly as they don't mow worth a darn up side down!!! I put a box or combination wrench on the nut and let it swing around until it rests on something solid and torque the bolts from under the deck. A 15/16" socket fits both the nuts and the bolt heads.
Mad Mackie in CT

 

[plateauman57]

I have a scag turf tiger 61 inch cut. I want to sharpen the blades. Do I unscrew the bolts from underneath the deck or from the top where the pulleys are? Manual doesnt really say much about changing blades.

Thanks for your replies.

-bobby

Should be from the top

 

[Mad Mackie]

Should be from the top

Technically yes, the nut should be torqued on the top of the spindle. However actually doing it is where the problems arise as the bolt head must be held from underneath to prevent it from turning while the nut is being torqued from the top. I recently purchased an extra long breaker bar for another purpose and I will try it the next time that I do a blade change which will be soon. I have a blade grinder and usually do 6-8 blade changes a season on my 48" Tiger Cub. Blade changes with an extra pair of hands is easy to do, but the extra pair of hands is not always available when needed.
I had made up a tool to hold the blade bolt, it was a 15/16" box wrench with the other end cut off and a piece of pipe slipped onto it and welded in place. This worked fine, but I gave it to a friend who has a machine with a 72" deck and never did make another one. But still, torqueing the center blade nut from the top with an extension on the torque wrench is still problematic.
Mad Mackie in CT