Can't find 30W oil anywhere in my area, or on line.

[Gord Baker]

Your mower will not know the difference between Synthetic and Real.

 

[Back44L&G]

Your mower will not know the difference between Synthetic and Real.

I was always told to use regular oil in a new engine for at least the break-in period and possibly a month later, before switching to synthetic.

 

[ILENGINE]

I was always told to use regular oil in a new engine for at least the break-in period and possibly a month later, before switching to synthetic.

And that was based on the idea that synthetic oil wouldn't allow the rings to wear in properly to seat. And the truth is most engines are using synthetic straight from the factory. Doesn't matter if a lawnmower engine or your automobile engine. Most are coming from the factory with synthetic already installed. Most mower manufacturers have all but discontinued there own branded dino oils and have converted to either synthetic or synthetic blend.

I have converted to the Briggs Vanguard oils at the shop this year since they are selling them for about the same price as traditional dino oils.

 

[closecut]

Here is everything you ever needed to know about oil but were afraid to ask:
Very enlightening.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/

 

[Gord Baker]

Use 10 or 20W 30. No big deal. Event Closed.

 

[nbpt100]

I see SAE 30 out there, weather it is in an auto part store ACE, Tractor Supply or Walmart. Not hard for me to find it in New England. I am looking for SAE 40 and that is hard to find. I Just can not find it in a store. On line the prices are ridiculous.

BTW, Lake Speed Jr. did some oil testing and found too much ZDDP in the oil can have an opposite effect and you will get more wear. He recommends not adding any. You can look at his You tube Channel.

Walmart does sell the Briggs conventional SAE 30 Oil as well as their own Super Tech 10W30 Lawn mower oil. At least in the few that I visit.

 

[grumpyunk]

I am looking for SAE 40 and that is hard to find. I Just can not find it in a store. On line the prices are ridiculous.

SAE 40 has been hard to find for decades. It was specified for use in Midget/Sprite transmissions back in the 1960's, and was almost not anywhere on the shefl. No WEB to search either. I kind of remember getting it as Sears Robuck in their automotive section. That for sure will not work too well today.
I think BMC actually should have spec'd a better lube as the 40W allowed the counter shaft bearings to wear early causing gear teeth to wear and cause whine. That and a nickel.
I think 30W for OPE engines is better from the point of view the VI's - viscosity improvers - will not get sheared and lower the viscosity with age as happend in multi-weight oils. OTOH, if you substitute 10W-40 for the 40W specified, you will get earlier flow when cold than a straight 40 would allow. Unless there are hydraulic controls that would be affected, I expect you should be OK with the multi-grade oil. If it was in a hydro on a mower, I would consider using 20W-50 as those oils are getting beat up when in use. My neighbors whines almost 100% of the time, and that to me means something is being worked hard, and likely being beat up by the pistons in pump & motor.
tom

ADDED: The Motor Oil Geek - by Lake Speed Jr - is a very interesting YT channel. I watch all of his videos. I do think oil additives should not fall out of suspension/mixture over time which apparently they do. The ZDDP question is interesting in that it can be cause for wear when overdone. Personally, the valve springs used in OPE engines are likely so weak the cam lobes will last forever even with the tiniest amount of ZDDP added or left over from older oil changes. I can compress the springs using thumbs, and for sure I cannot do that with any auto/truck valve springs ever worked on. That means to me the tappet:lobe interface should not have the same wear problems as OHV engines had in the early 1950's. Which was the reason ZDDP was developed...

 

[nbpt100]

SAE 40 has been hard to find for decades. It was specified for use in Midget/Sprite transmissions back in the 1960's, and was almost not anywhere on the shefl. No WEB to search either. I kind of remember getting it as Sears Robuck in their automotive section. That for sure will not work too well today.
I think BMC actually should have spec'd a better lube as the 40W allowed the counter shaft bearings to wear early causing gear teeth to wear and cause whine. That and a nickel.
I think 30W for OPE engines is better from the point of view the VI's - viscosity improvers - will not get sheared and lower the viscosity with age as happend in multi-weight oils. OTOH, if you substitute 10W-40 for the 40W specified, you will get earlier flow when cold than a straight 40 would allow. Unless there are hydraulic controls that would be affected, I expect you should be OK with the multi-grade oil. If it was in a hydro on a mower, I would consider using 20W-50 as those oils are getting beat up when in use. My neighbors whines almost 100% of the time, and that to me means something is being worked hard, and likely being beat up by the pistons in pump & motor.
tom

ADDED: The Motor Oil Geek - by Lake Speed Jr - is a very interesting YT channel. I watch all of his videos. I do think oil additives should not fall out of suspension/mixture over time which apparently they do. The ZDDP question is interesting in that it can be cause for wear when overdone. Personally, the valve springs used in OPE engines are likely so weak the cam lobes will last forever even with the tiniest amount of ZDDP added or left over from older oil changes. I can compress the springs using thumbs, and for sure I cannot do that with any auto/truck valve springs ever worked on. That means to me the tappet:lobe interface should not have the same wear problems as OHV engines had in the early 1950's. Which was the reason ZDDP was developed...

My only interest in SAE 40 is for tired engines not worth rebuilding but trying to get less oil burning, plug fouling, smoking and a few more days out of them. I have tried 20w-50 but it will smoke a lot at start up. More smoking than SAE 30. So I have stayed with the SAE 30. I think the mulit grades will leak more through seals and rings when cold causing the smoke at start up and faster fouling. If 30w-40 or 50 was such a thing it may be an improvement.

 

[Gord Baker]

10W30 tends to be lower viscosity when cold. Other than that Advantage, Use it in any mower.

 

[Back44L&G]

I believe SuperTech is manufacatured by Valvoline

No, it's made by Warren Oil Company LLC which is now owned by Trail Creek Investments. The name, "SuperTech" is a brand name owned by Walmart.