Briggs Carburetor dies when accelerating

[tim4]

Also those tubes have a check ball in them.

 

[Forest#2]

Also those tubes have a check ball in them.

Your does not.
If the pump diaphragm is on the side of the pulsa jet carb it does not have the check ball tube. The flappers on the diaphragm is the check valve.
Also most generally it will be found that these type carbs engines start easier with less manual cranking after they have been at rest long time if the gas tank is full when trying to get a startup without using a prime into the carb throat because the long pickup tube is being used to pump fuel into the upper bowl for the short tube when the fuel level in the tank is below the bottom of the short tube.
(take more manual rope cranking to get the carb's short pickup tube fuel bowl primed)


Most generally the pulsa jet carbs with the check ball in the PLASTIC pickup tube have the pump diaphragm UNDER the carb body on top of the tank and have to have a good seal between the diaphragm and the top of the tank to operate properly.
and were used on the 3.5 vertical crankshaft engines.
Here is a link to one type of the check ball in the tube type pulsa jet

Disassembly, Repair of Briggs Tank-mounted Vacu-jet Automatic Choke Carburetor

outdoorpowerinfo.com

 

[tim4]

I thought that type had a check ball because I could blow in to the long tube but could not suck the tube so that is because the flapper valve thanks.

 

[tank1949]

I am working on a briggs tiller model 130297 type 301501 code 88090207 and I replaced the tank gasket and the diaphram and it will idle fine when I adjust the needle valve but when I try to speed it up it stalls. I made sure the long tube was clear and I cleaned the hole in the side of the part that goes in the fuel pick up are. If I move the throttle slow toward high speed it will pick up speed for 2 seconds then stall. If I turn the needle valve out it will pick up speed if I move the throttle and sometines stay running but it won't idle smooth.

If it has an older metal gas tank like mine has, it will accumulate rust and pass the rust to carb. I soaked my tank with muriatic acid, rinsed thoroughly with baking soda/water but still accumulated rust and passed rust to carb. You might be able to find an after market plastic tank.

 

[Forest#2]

If it has an older metal gas tank like mine has, it will accumulate rust and pass the rust to carb. I soaked my tank with muriatic acid, rinsed thoroughly with baking soda/water but still accumulated rust and passed rust to carb. You might be able to find an after market plastic tank.

I just got through red koting some of those tanks.
Really surprised at how well they cleaned up inside.
I strapped them to a tractor tire, put nuts and bolts inside and jacked up the tire and rotated them for few hours just using water as the rinse.
Use plastic under the cap when rotating and a sealing plate on top.
Using the tractor as the tumbler really gets them clean and ready for the inner coating. If the small pan for the short tube has rusty holes it's not worth the effort usually.

Looking for a plastic tank usually requires going to a gravity feed requires changing to a different carb, etc. I've done such for myself and it's time consuming.

Also costly unless you have the donor parts already.

 

[tim4]

So after you tumble it with the nuts and bolts just use soap and water to rinch it? thanks.

 

[rhkraft]

It is getting enough gas to idle, but not enough to run fast. Dirty filter or cracked fuel pickup line. To test for cracked pickup line fill the fuel tank. If it runs good then, the line is cracked. When the fuel gets below the crack, it sucks air.

 

[Forest#2]

So after you tumble it with the nuts and bolts just use soap and water to rinch it? thanks.

No, final rinse after it's removed from the tumbler is a manual rinse with small amount lacquer thinner or acetone.
I tumble with the tractor tire just using very little water with the nuts and bolts and have the tank where I can drain the water and rinse with the tank strapped in place. When the rinse water comes clean the inside is clean. Soap is not necessary. Use a piece of old carpet or padded protector under or around the tank when strapped to the tractor wheel.

To prep for the red kote I rinse the inside with little bit of lacquer thinner or acetone then use a heat lamp or heater and a fan to move little bit of air over the tank while its drying internally.
I use two coats of the liner, first coat sets for about 8-12 hours with very low air flow across the tank from a low speed fan and I keep the tank just slightly warm using a light bulb or heat lamp. The cap is off so the tank can breath. The first coat is not thick, I dump out the excess and save it for the 2nd coat and apply the 2nd coat while the first coat is still slightly tacky. I rotate the tank about every hour so as to get an even coating inside.
I let the tank dry for several days using the low heat and fan before adding fuel. I can do several one gallon small engine tanks using 1/2 pint of the sealer and saves time doing several at same time.
I also do large tanks using the tractor tire tumbling cleaning.
On very large tanks I sometimes make a drain hole to drain out the excess sealer then seal the hole during the final coat.
Mainly just follow the instructions for applying the sealer in use.

 

[Auto Doc's]

No, final rinse after it's removed from the tumbler is a manual rinse with small amount lacquer thinner or acetone.
I tumble with the tractor tire just using very little water with the nuts and bolts and have the tank where I can drain the water and rinse with the tank strapped in place. When the rinse water comes clean the inside is clean. Soap is not necessary. Use a piece of old carpet or padded protector under or around the tank when strapped to the tractor wheel.

To prep for the red kote I rinse the inside with little bit of lacquer thinner or acetone then use a heat lamp or heater and a fan to move little bit of air over the tank while its drying internally.
I use two coats of the liner, first coat sets for about 8-12 hours with very low air flow across the tank from a low speed fan and I keep the tank just slightly warm using a light bulb or heat lamp. The cap is off so the tank can breath. The first coat is not thick, I dump out the excess and save it for the 2nd coat and apply the 2nd coat while the first coat is still slightly tacky. I rotate the tank about every hour so as to get an even coating inside.
I let the tank dry for several days using the low heat and fan before adding fuel. I can do several one gallon small engine tanks using 1/2 pint of the sealer and saves time doing several at same time.
I also do large tanks using the tractor tire tumbling cleaning.
On very large tanks I sometimes make a drain hole to drain out the excess sealer then seal the hole during the final coat.
Mainly just follow the instructions for applying the sealer in use.

Hi Forest#2,

I use a similar method with the steel farm tractor fuel tanks except in a larger scale and I use 4-inch short pieces of various sized chains as tumbler material.

Regardless of tank size, the rattle and shake by hand method gets old really fast. It is much easier to strap them to a tractor wheel or similar slow-moving vehicle and let it do the "hard work".

Recently, I've been considering using evapo-rust liquid to dissolve and convert the rust, but I don't think it will be effective in dealing with old residual fuel resins. I'm going to try it in some in a couple of small engine metal tanks to see how it works.

 

[Forest#2]

Hi Forest#2,

I use a similar method with the steel farm tractor fuel tanks except in a larger scale and I use 4-inch short pieces of various sized chains as tumbler material.

Regardless of tank size, the rattle and shake by hand method gets old really fast. It is much easier to strap them to a tractor wheel or similar slow-moving vehicle and let it do the "hard work".

Recently, I've been considering using evapo-rust liquid to dissolve and convert the rust, but I don't think it will be effective in dealing with old residual fuel resins. I'm going to try it in some in a couple of small engine metal tanks to see how it works.

I do about the same with large tanks such as old tractor tanks and vec tanks that are obsolete.
I use pieces of porch swing chain on large tanks, it has sharp edges and will cut the dried gunk plus rust.
Some tanks, including tractor tanks have a baffle inside and I have to carefully prepare a access on the other side of the baffle for the chains, nuts and bolts, etc when tumbling.