Briggs Carburetor dies when accelerating

[StarTech]

Here's one problem that has been overlooked as these Briggs tank has a reservoir cup that can develop pin holes. The main tank is fairly easy to coat, its this reservoir cup that is a pain to do as there is limited spacing between and the carb tower.

Also many of three tanks have plastic and foam baffle materials especially those on garden tillers.

 

[Forest#2]

Here's one problem that has been overlooked as these Briggs tank has a reservoir cup that can develop pin holes. The main tank is fairly easy to coat, its this reservoir cup that is a pain to do as there is limited spacing between and the carb tower.

Also many of three tanks have plastic and foam baffle materials especially those on garden tillers.

Right about the reservoir cup.
I hinted about the reservoir cup and fuel level in post #18. If reservoir cup has leakage (or the long tube is not pumping fuel the engine will need the fuel level in the tank above the level of the short pickup tube.
If I encounter one of these type carb acting weird I fill the tank full of gas and test. If it runs ok with such it's a hint that the issue is with the long pickup tube or reservoir pan pump area. Operating the engine with a full tank will let you repair the carb later if the equipment is really needed at the immediate time.

Do not let the sealer coating build up in the bottom of the reservoir cup or the bottom of the carb short tube will get restricted/blocked when the carb is installed.

As mentioned some of the tanks have the foam baffle materials.
I've removed that foam baffle on some tanks and some will clean up good due to a good non-rusting type metal and others will not get clean, rust too heavy and tumbling will actually create pin holes. Just have to start tumbling and see what the results will be. I get surprises how well some of the small engine rusty tanks will get clean by tumbling and would live long time without being coated if proper fuel storage is used. Ethanol gas left in the tanks seems to speed up the rusting. If small engine metal tank is going to be stored for long time I add a 2 cycle mix to the tank to reduce chance of corrosion and rusting. The engine will usually operate ok when needed using a 50:1 2 cycle mix. (and carb pump diaphragms last longer)

Not a fun job but some of the vintage JUNK stuff such as tanks are NLA as new. (or priced out of sight)

 

[tim4]

That tumbling is a great idea. I used to shake the tanks by hand with nuts and bolts in them and dunp it out in a tray andwipe the bolts with a rag and put them inside the tank again for more shaking.

 

[georgPru2]

I am working on a briggs tiller model 130297 type 301501 code 88090207 and I replaced the tank gasket and the diaphram and it will idle fine when I adjust the needle valve but when I try to speed it up it stalls. I made sure the long tube was clear and I cleaned the hole in the side of the part that goes in the fuel pick up are. If I move the throttle slow toward high speed it will pick up speed for 2 seconds then stall. If I turn the needle valve out it will pick up speed if I move the throttle and sometines stay running but it won't idle smooth.

Throttle shaft/carb worn out. Ck for side to side play. Running too lean.

 

[tim4]

I checked that and there was no excessive play in the throttle shaft.

 

[Forest#2]

I was referring to the piece with a hole in the side of it that is casted on the carburetor. I took the carb off again and sprayed carb cleaner in it again and blew it out with air and now it works fine thanks.

and now it works fine thanks.

He got it going.

 

[Chipg1956]

Here's one problem that has been overlooked as these Briggs tank has a reservoir cup that can develop pin holes. The main tank is fairly easy to coat, its this reservoir cup that is a pain to do as there is limited spacing between and the carb tower.

Also many of three tanks have plastic and foam baffle materials especially those on garden tillers.

And that foam starts to deteriorate. If you have that, remove it.