This is a push style weed- eater, trimmer. I didn't pull the flywheel because the notch and key looks to be in alignment. I have a puller and can get it off, but why would I pull it if it's still lined up??
Briggs 6.75 Series not starting...
- Thread starter kevyrev
- Start date
Andrew, I believe he's saying it's wheeled trimmer/weed eater.
Kevrev, you visually confirmed spark? To me, that's remove plug, ground, and spin motor to see spark. Is that what you meant? Have you checked fuel flow? Remove line from carb to check. I know you tried starting fluid, and manually adding gas, but that doesn't always work. Andrew is correct, it's best to pull the flywheel to check the key.
Kevrev, you visually confirmed spark? To me, that's remove plug, ground, and spin motor to see spark. Is that what you meant? Have you checked fuel flow? Remove line from carb to check. I know you tried starting fluid, and manually adding gas, but that doesn't always work. Andrew is correct, it's best to pull the flywheel to check the key.
I first used a spark tester to verify good coil, also adjusted coil air gap. I also installed new plug gapped to .030 and visually confirmed spark.
I haven't put the fuel tank back on a I usually get motors to test fire on fluid. Just didn't want to drain and remove tank again if I needed to get back into things. I have not worked on a flathead before and I read that they really need to be fuel fed from tank. So should I pull the flywheel which doesn't look to have a sheared key, or go ahead and try with fuel tank and primer bulb.
Also I removed exhaust just now to test incase it was blocked, still not starting.
I'm going to go ahead and pull the flywheel anyway! I'll report back!
Just pulled the flywheel. That was the easiest flywheel I ever removed. It did not pop loose, as I was tightening the puller I very soon noticed it was free, very strange.
Key looks good and solid. I put it back on and I can tell there is a very slight bit of play between the key and flywheel.
Key looks good and solid. I put it back on and I can tell there is a very slight bit of play between the key and flywheel.
Good to hear your key is fine. Is the spark tester a gap tester, or a light bulb? The light bulb is not a good test. A visual check seeing the plug spark is a lot better. It sound like you did that. An alternative to starting fluid is 2 stroke fuel sprayed into the carb. I've had good results with that, though it doesn't run long.
I do have at least 1mm of play between the key and the flywheel. I'm going to get a new key and hopefully it will get rid of the slop. Thank you guys for advising me to pull the flywheel even though it " looked" good to me before removing. I never would have found that play. I'll get the new key and hopefully this will all be over and she fires
andrewslarge
Well-Known Member
I can see that happening now.
andrewslarge
Well-Known Member
So happy with your progress! I think you are on to something.
When I tighten down the flywheel nut, I put some soft rope into the cylinder through the spark plug hole to “lock up” the engine to prevent it from turning when I torque it to spec.
After it is correct I pull the rope out. There are tools to hold it in place but I do not have any.
It’s important to get it torqued correctly
When I tighten down the flywheel nut, I put some soft rope into the cylinder through the spark plug hole to “lock up” the engine to prevent it from turning when I torque it to spec.
After it is correct I pull the rope out. There are tools to hold it in place but I do not have any.
It’s important to get it torqued correctly
Auto Doc's
Lawn Addict
One thing comes to mind and that is the coil kill wire or switch contact is grounding out. I've had a few that had that issue.
Unplug the coil kill wire and see if tries to fire up and run.
Unplug the coil kill wire and see if tries to fire up and run.