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Blade Removal Tool

#1

R

RustyBoy

Is anyone aware of a blade removal tool/clamp to make changing blades easier? I know that Arnold makes a clamp but that it's for up to 42" decks.


#2

S

SeniorCitizen

This simple fixture ( assembled with Elmer's ) works on any mower that has blades narrower than the trough area. Works on my old Murray 2 blade, my JD 2 blade and my son in law's JD 3 blade. I suppose it would work on a 5 blade too. It lays on top of the blades ( trough side down ) open end ( no sides ) extended from the blade tip end some. No clamping or fastening necessary. I begin with the right hand blade and work across removing the blades. Re-assemble by reversing the order.

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#3

Carscw

Carscw

SeniorCitizen said:
This simple fixture ( assembled with Elmer's ) works on any mower that has blades narrower than the trough area. Works on my old Murray 2 blade, my JD 2 blade and my son in law's JD 3 blade. I suppose it would work on a 5 blade too. It lays on top of the blades ( trough side down ) open end ( no sides ) extended from the blade tip end some. No clamping or fastening necessary. I begin with the right hand blade and work across removing the blades. Re-assemble by reversing the order.
Click to expand...

I like this.
How long is it?


#4

Carscw

Carscw

RustyBoy said:
Is anyone aware of a blade removal tool/clamp to make changing blades easier? I know that Arnold makes a clamp but that it's for up to 42" decks.
Click to expand...

It will work on a 48 and a 60


#5

S

SeniorCitizen

SeniorCitizen said:
This simple fixture ( assembled with Elmer's ) works on any mower that has blades narrower than the trough area. Works on my old Murray 2 blade, my JD 2 blade and my son in law's JD 3 blade. I suppose it would work on a 5 blade too. It lays on top of the blades ( trough side down ) open end ( no sides ) extended from the blade tip end some. No clamping or fastening necessary. I begin with the right hand blade and work across removing the blades. Re-assemble by reversing the order.
Click to expand...

About 10 " long overall with sides about 5" long x 2" deep. Nothing very critical. I modified it once and it seems as if I shortened the sides to the present 5" length. Your mileage may vary of course.

As you can see it's from scrap pine and fir, probably the worst wood for that project but it seems to work. If it ever breaks I'll make a purdy one of Oak or something.


#6

P

Pumper54

Very nice jig there. May knock something like it together from some 3/4 inch plywood scrapes I have. I generally use a 2X4 about 6-8 inches long with a 6 inch C-Clamp
Tom


#7

M

motoman

Search this forum for diy wrench adapter.


#8

reynoldston

reynoldston

I use a 1/2 in. Air Impact Wrench / Gun. Never have a problem removing a blade bolt or nut.


#9

BlazNT

BlazNT

Wow all these fancy tools and I just use a 2x4 wedged between the blade and deck. It has never not worked on any mower with a blade.


#10

Carscw

Carscw

I use a 2x4
Use two wrenches on my snapper. Shaft comes out the bottom


#11

Kwelhand

Kwelhand

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I use Dewalt 1/2" cordless impact.
Extremely compact and very powerful.
Used on heavy rusted blade bolt removal w/ no problem.

Amazon.com: DEWALT DCF880B 20-Volt Li-Ion 1/2-Inch Impact Wrench Kit with Detent Pin: Home Improvement


#12

reynoldston

reynoldston

BlazNT said:
Wow all these fancy tools and I just use a 2x4 wedged between the blade and deck. It has never not worked on any mower with a blade.
Click to expand...

When you make a living doing repairs one thing is needed, Tools.


#13

S

SeniorCitizen

BlazNT said:
Wow all these fancy tools and I just use a 2x4 wedged between the blade and deck. It has never not worked on any mower with a blade.
Click to expand...
That's the reason I built the blade blocker. The 2x4 never wanted to stay where I put it until pressure was applied and I got tired of chasing it.


#14

S

shadco

reynoldston said:
I use a 1/2 in. Air Impact Wrench / Gun. Never have a problem removing a blade bolt or nut.
Click to expand...


this


.


#15

BlazNT

BlazNT

SeniorCitizen said:
That's the reason I built the blade blocker. The 2x4 never wanted to stay where I put it until pressure was applied and I got tired of chasing it.
Click to expand...

Well I never thought about it like that. I have to use 2 hands in awkward places to get started.


#16

Carscw

Carscw

BlazNT said:
Well I never thought about it like that. I have to use 2 hands in awkward places to get started.
Click to expand...


The center blade is a pain in the butt. Trying to hold the 2x4 while getting the wrench on.


#17

S

SeniorCitizen

I found it to be easy on the rt. and center blades of a 3 blade and on the left blade position the blade 90° to tractor length and put the blocker extended out to the center by feel or visually install through the discharge chute. You'll soon find what works best for you and your mower.


#18

Carscw

Carscw

SeniorCitizen said:
I found it to be easy on the rt. and center blades of a 3 blade and on the left blade position the blade 90° to tractor length and put the blocker extended out to the center by feel or visually install through the discharge chute. You'll soon find what works best for you and your mower.
Click to expand...

I think I have just got tired of changing blades every few days.

I still like to sharping them but removing and putting them on have become a chore to me.


#19

exotion

exotion

I use my foot to hold blades. On walk behind I simply put my foot in the way while i loosen the bolt. On 2 blade models you can usually use a wrench ok the pulley above the blade. On three blade I put my foot in the way and use a long wrench to loosen.


#20

L

LoCo86

I was told that when reinstalling the blades to make a "H" with the blades, by that I mean running the two outside blades from front to back and the middle blade running from side to side. I was told that it helps with the circulation of the clipping under the deck before being discharged and that it helps the striping effect. Anyone else heard of this. I've been doing it for years and it seems to work or it could just be in my head.


#21

BlazNT

BlazNT

Have you ever looked athe the blades after you turned them and back off. They will not be where you put them. Now with that being said it does not hurt anything to do it.


#22

S

SeniorCitizen

If your mower has standard V belts ( not cogged timed belts ) locate them in the H pattern suggested. Start the engine and engage the PTO for a second or two. Now shut the engine off and look to see if the blades still have the same relationship to each other. I highly doubt they will and the odds of them ever having that H relationship again would be billions to one unless you manually positioned them again.


#23

Carscw

Carscw

I always put my blades on I a line going side to side. I have no reason for doing this I just always have.

When I go to take the blades off they are never inline.
So it does not really matter how you put them on.

I would not own a mower with a timed deck.


#24

Bill Martin

Bill Martin

I use a simple ratchet with a small block of wood and lots of caution! Cuts and busted knuckles are common if you rush with this chore


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