Ariens Briggs & Stratton won't start.

[D_H]

If you follow what I posted you will recognise the diagnostic process works by bypassing things one at a time.
So it is important that the goop down the plug hole step one is done again as with all of the faffing around by now your new plugs could be compromised.
Then followed by step 2
I use terms like "Bang & No Bang" because they can not be misinterpreted as some will call a spark jumping a gap "fire " etc etc etc.
I could have said combustion but I like to keep things simple.
And with mowers they are simple and way too many people try to make things a lot more complicated than they should be .
If the magneto is strong enough to ignite the goop down the plug hole and then in Step 3 to ignite the goop sprayed into the carb throat then it is strong enough to start & run the engine, even if it misses a bit so it really does not matter if it throws a 1/8 " spark, a 1/4" spark , a 1/2" spark or even a 1' spark just so long as it ignites the fuel .
I have 5 different spark testers , the trick is to use the one that is appropriate for the diagnosis you are trying to do .
I saw where this thread was going so decided not to get involved as I am a mower technical & not a novelist.
Even more so with magneto coils because they are a works or replace item & not repairable.
Once the engine is running we can worry about the spark strength or lack there of which will manifest itself as a miss .
Right now the immediate problem is getting the thing to start.
So back to what I posted before
If you want my help then please do the tests as posted then post your results from each one .

On another "war & peace" it got to page 8 before the owner posted that the rockers were at different heights so we finally worked out the valve guides have shifted.
What I asked you to do tests the basics.
I should also have mentioned we need to know where the engine went bang
Ie in the exhaust = valve open or timing wrong
in the carb = valve open usually because of a loose seat .

So over to you.
I am off to do a house call & replace a deck belt so won't be back till tomorrow local time.

Thanks for trying to explain things a little and for attempting to keep it simple. People appreciate that.

I can go try the spark/carb cleaner tests again on the cylinder and carb.

I didn't want to start to take the engine apart if it wasn't needed, is the only reason I waited to take off the valve cover until that was the only thing people were saying.

I initially bought 4 spark plugs, two of the new ones are now in use (mower, 1/4" gap test). I can try another brand new one.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Threads can get a little out of hand very easily.
Every one has their "pet" problem that had them beating their heads against a brick wall so naturally that is the solution to everything.
Then we can easily get into the my tool is better than your tool debates followed by you are using the tool wrong then this is how the tool works,, hold on what were we trying to do ?

As such I like to get the owners to do the same tests hat I would do in my workshop .
They are simple , require little in the way of expensive diagnostic tooling and the results will be obvious to all following the thread.
Every tech has their own way of doing the same thing and their own order of doing it and their own way of describing things.
Joe public tends t have 2 terms.
it works
It don't work .
A lot of what people have suggested is good but we need to go to the basics.
Once the engine starts & runs then we can worry about magneto strength to get it running better
But the problem right now is it does not start so first we get it to start .
Some times there will be multiple problems and most times each one needs to be fixed before the next can be diagnosed.

It is hot in the USA right now
If by chance you are using a winter blend then it could be no more than all of the room temperature volatile fractions of the fuel you are using have evaporated .
I have a "fun" test for that little problem.

 

[D_H]

Okay, I tried the spark plug test again.

1. Removed the spark plug.
2. Removed the rest of the thin layer of paint off the frame screw.
3. Placed the 1/4" gapped spark plug into the spark plug boot and tried to fire the engine.
4. This time no spark. Not even a few times like I got before.
5. There was a consistent compression blow of fuel out of the spark plug hole, again about 3', every time the engine make a revolution.
6. I went and bought a new magneto/armature/ignition coil - the one I listed on page 6 https://www.lawnmowerforum.com/threads/ariens-briggs-stratton-wont-start.66125/post-408071
7. Came back home, installed it. I did the 1/4” spark test again. This time I got a good consistent spark over the 1/4” gap.
8. Assembled the a new spark plug into the new ignition coil and attempted to start. No change.
9. I took the spark plug out again and sprayed a shot of carb cleaner into the spark plug hole and re-assembled. The engine fired for a second. Bang.
10. I sprayed a shot of carb cleaner into the air inlet on the carb. No bang.

I guess my problem is in my carburetor.
I went and got new gas. Drained the gas out of the mower (good full tube flow through the fuel line to carb).
I sprayed carb cleaner into the air inlet of the carb while the gas was drained (choke open).
I tried to start the mower (open choke) - No bang this time. Tried again with choke closed. - No bang.
I went and got new gas. I poured out the old gas.

I have been refraining from telling you guys this next part. But my weed eater (SRM225 - Bought in 2007) also went down on the same day my mower did. It's got different gas on it. I had been using that gas for some time now, maybe the last 10 mows or so. I had another carb, so today, I replaced the carb with a new one and adjusted the idle screw, then weed eated my entire yard. I'm tired...

• What do you guys think about the carb now? It's a Nikki. You can look it up by the engine number, page 1. I'm reading that the Chinese are building crap. (Believe me, I know, they always build crap)
• How should I go forward?
• New replacement B&S Nikki?
• Cheap aftermarket?
• Rebuild?
• Take apart, compressed air, carb cleaner, re-assemble, cross fingers?
• What do you guys think about step# 5 above?

 

[oldlawnguy]

Okay, I tried the spark plug test again.

1. Removed the spark plug.
2. Removed the rest of the thin layer of paint off the frame screw.
3. Placed the 1/4" gapped spark plug into the spark plug boot and tried to fire the engine.
4. This time no spark. Not even a few times like I got before.
5. There was a consistent compression blow of fuel out of the spark plug hole, again about 3', every time the engine make a revolution.
6. I went and bought a new magneto/armature/ignition coil - the one I listed on page 6 https://www.lawnmowerforum.com/threads/ariens-briggs-stratton-wont-start.66125/post-408071
7. Came back home, installed it. I did the 1/4” spark test again. This time I got a good consistent spark over the 1/4” gap.
8. Assembled the a new spark plug into the new ignition coil and attempted to start. No change.
9. I took the spark plug out again and sprayed a shot of carb cleaner into the spark plug hole and re-assembled. The engine fired for a second. Bang.
10. I sprayed a shot of carb cleaner into the air inlet on the carb. No bang.

I guess my problem is in my carburetor.
I went and got new gas. Drained the gas out of the mower (good full tube flow through the fuel line to carb).
I sprayed carb cleaner into the air inlet of the carb while the gas was drained (choke open).
I tried to start the mower (open choke) - No bang this time. Tried again with choke closed. - No bang.
I went and got new gas. I poured out the old gas.

I have been refraining from telling you guys this next part. But my weed eater (SRM225 - Bought in 2007) also went down on the same day my mower did. It's got different gas on it. I had been using that gas for some time now, maybe the last 10 mows or so. I had another carb, so today, I replaced the carb with a new one and adjusted the idle screw, then weed eated my entire yard. I'm tired...

• What do you guys think about the carb now? It's a Nikki. You can look it up by the engine number, page 1. I'm reading that the Chinese are building crap. (Believe me, I know, they always build crap)
• How should I go forward?
• New replacement B&S Nikki?
• Cheap aftermarket?
• Rebuild?
• Take apart, compressed air, carb cleaner, re-assemble, cross fingers?
• What do you guys think about step# 5 above?

Kudos for weed eating your whole yard! Hang in there.

I think you have to decide who you want in the drivers seat. In other words, do you want to drive the troubleshooting and ask for forum advice/feedback or do you want the forum here to drive the troubleshooting and you are carrying out the troubleshooting steps in order as specified. Things get hairy when you try to do both. Either way is no gaurentee collectively we can get to true root cause analysis.

IMO troubleshooting is a very logical methodical process of eliminating variables to get to true root cause. You appear to have good DIY skills and the folks on this forum are great and really interested in helping. Relax, take a break. Forum members are blind and you are their eyes and ears. Remember forum advice is free and that includes the pro shop owners who contribute here as well.

Remember we have all been in your spot before in some form with a piece of equipment that just wants to play with you cuz it can.

 

[bertsmobile1]

OK so now we are getting somewhere.
We are now confident that there is enough spark to ignite the mix & it is happening near enough to the right time.
And the wiring is good .

AS the carb spray through the carb did not fire the engine then you have a valve problem ( assuming the choke was open so the spray can get in )
And most likely with the inlet valve not opening enough to let the carb cleaner in, although an exhaust valve not opening will not let the exhaust out but usually that will allow the engine to go bang once then when the inlet opens again you get a rush of exhaust blowing back out the carb .

You need to think about it in simple terms
The engine basically goes suck-bang-blow,
So now you need to take the rocker cover off and work out why the valves are not working.
Mower valves & guides are identical and placed identically in the head so they should go down the same distance & come up the same distance & sit the same distance off the head .

 

[Richard Milhous]

OK so now we are getting somewhere.
We are now confident that there is enough spark to ignite the mix & it is happening near enough to the right time.
And the wiring is good .

AS the carb spray through the carb did not fire the engine then you have a valve problem ( assuming the choke was open so the spray can get in )
And most likely with the inlet valve not opening enough to let the carb cleaner in, although an exhaust valve not opening will not let the exhaust out but usually that will allow the engine to go bang once then when the inlet opens again you get a rush of exhaust blowing back out the carb .

You need to think about it in simple terms
The engine basically goes suck-bang-blow,
So now you need to take the rocker cover off and work out why the valves are not working.
Mower valves & guides are identical and placed identically in the head so they should go down the same distance & come up the same distance & sit the same distance off the head .

Choke, throttle, vacuum.

 

[Cwillhide]

I need help. I have an Ariens 20 horse 46" riding mower from 2012. It's ran like a champ ever since I bought it new. Now, I started it up, pulled out of the garage and it died while I was driving it out of the garage and off the driveway and will not start back up.

Mower info:
Ariens: A20H46
Product: 93605300
Model: 96046002300
Engine: Briggs and Stratton Intek with XRD 540cc -> 331777-1372-B1

Things I've done since it died.

• Put a new spark plug in it. [(Calls for Champion# RC12YC - obsolete) compatible NGK - BKR5E. 7938 is what I used.] I also found and bought Briggs & Stratton 5092 PN: 496018S.
• Changed the oil and filter. (Briggs & Stratton oil PN: 100028, filter calls for B&S 492932 - obsolete, I used B&S PN: 842921.)
• Checked the fuel solenoid (it is working).
• Pulled the fuel line off of the carburetor. Fuel is going through the fuel filter and getting to the carburetor.
• Sprayed a little starter fluid into the carb air inlet. Where the air filter attaches to.
• Checked for spark. Getting spark to the plug.
• I don't have a compression tester, but the engine sounds to be getting compression when it turns over. Sounds normal. When I turn the flywheel by hand, I can feel the compression. Hard to turn, then more loose, then hard again, etc.
• I don't see any frayed wires.

Check your safety switches.

I need help. I have an Ariens 20 horse 46" riding mower from 2012. It's ran like a champ ever since I bought it new. Now, I started it up, pulled out of the garage and it died while I was driving it out of the garage and off the driveway and will not start back up.

Mower info:
Ariens: A20H46
Product: 93605300
Model: 96046002300
Engine: Briggs and Stratton Intek with XRD 540cc -> 331777-1372-B1

Things I've done since it died.

• Put a new spark plug in it. [(Calls for Champion# RC12YC - obsolete) compatible NGK - BKR5E. 7938 is what I used.] I also found and bought Briggs & Stratton 5092 PN: 496018S.
• Changed the oil and filter. (Briggs & Stratton oil PN: 100028, filter calls for B&S 492932 - obsolete, I used B&S PN: 842921.)
• Checked the fuel solenoid (it is working).
• Pulled the fuel line off of the carburetor. Fuel is going through the fuel filter and getting to the carburetor.
• Sprayed a little starter fluid into the carb air inlet. Where the air filter attaches to.
• Checked for spark. Getting spark to the plug.
• I don't have a compression tester, but the engine sounds to be getting compression when it turns over. Sounds normal. When I turn the flywheel by hand, I can feel the compression. Hard to turn, then more loose, then hard again, etc.
• I don't see any frayed wires.

 

[Cwillhide]

OK so now we are getting somewhere.
We are now confident that there is enough spark to ignite the mix & it is happening near enough to the right time.
And the wiring is good .

AS the carb spray through the carb did not fire the engine then you have a valve problem ( assuming the choke was open so the spray can get in )
And most likely with the inlet valve not opening enough to let the carb cleaner in, although an exhaust valve not opening will not let the exhaust out but usually that will allow the engine to go bang once then when the inlet opens again you get a rush of exhaust blowing back out the carb .

You need to think about it in simple terms
The engine basically goes suck-bang-blow,
So now you need to take the rocker cover off and work out why the valves are not working.
Mower valves & guides are identical and placed identically in the head so they should go down the same distance & come up the same distance & sit the same distance off the head .

Check your safety switches. I left the blades engaged after replacing spindles,pullies, spindles and blades. Luckily I figured it out after a short break. I was suspecting the seat switch, but no, it was sabatoged by me.

 

[D_H]

You guys are going to love this. I guess I had bad gas...wow.

Ariens Briggs & Stratton won't start.

I need help. I have an Ariens 20 horse 46" riding mower from 2012. It's ran like a champ ever since I bought it new. Now, I started it up, pulled out of the garage and it died while I was driving it out of the garage and off the driveway and will not start back up. Mower info: Ariens: A20H46...

www.lawnmowerforum.com

Just a recap: Things I've done since it died.

• Put a new spark plug in it. [(Calls for Champion# RC12YC - obsolete) compatible NGK - BKR5E. 7938 is what I used.] I also found and bought Briggs & Stratton 5092 PN: 496018S.
• Changed the oil and filter. (Briggs & Stratton oil PN: 100028, filter calls for B&S 492932 - obsolete, I used B&S PN: 842921.)
• Checked the fuel solenoid (it is working). I hear a very positive click from the bottom of the carburetor bowl when it opens and closes from an ignition key turn.
• Pulled the fuel line off of the carburetor. Fuel is going through the fuel filter and getting to the carburetor. There is a small stream of fuel coming from the end of the fuel line.
• Sprayed a little starter fluid (used Berryman b12 carb cleaner) into the carb air inlet. Where the air filter attaches to. Sprayed again while trying to start the mower. No change.
• Checked for spark. Getting spark to the plug. According to an inline tester. Then I removed the spark plug, inserted it into the spark plug boot, rested the tip of the spark plug on a frame screw and tried to start the mower. Spark every time to the spark plug. I got another new spark plug (same as the one mentioned) and gapped it to 1/4". The spark plug post was sticking straight out with a slight bend over to center. I placed the spark plug into the spark plug boot and rested the tip on a frame screw. I turned the engine over. The plug sparked a few times, most of the time no spark.
• I don't have a compression tester, but the engine sounds to be getting compression when it turns over. Sounds normal. When I turn the flywheel by hand, I can feel the compression. Hard to turn, then more loose, then hard again, etc. While the spark plug was out and I attempted to start the engine, fuel shot out of the spark plug hole about 3'. A lot of droplets, good spray, mist with every revolution.
• With the spark plug out, I put a straw into the spark plug hole to see if the piston is rotating. It is. The straw slid across the top of the piston a little while I was holding it against it. When I pulled the straw out, I noticed a little black oil build up on the tip of the straw.
• I don't see any frayed wires.
• I have removed the ignition coil and lightly sanded the ends of the coil. I also lightly sanded the flywheel. I gapped the ignition coil to .011" - no change.
• Spayed a little carb cleaner into the spark plug hole, while I had it out testing it, assembled the spark plug back into the engine with the boot on. Tried to fire. Engine turned over and fired once. Repeated that. Engine fired again.
• Went back to the carb, again sprayed a little starter fluid (used Berryman b12 carb cleaner) into the carb air inlet. Where the air filter attaches to. Sprayed again while trying to start the mower. No change.
• I have removed the fuel line at the carb, sprayed carb cleaner into the carb through the opening (most of it came right back out at me), let it sit overnight. Tried to start the next day, - no change.
• I pulled the cooling fan off the top of the motor to check the keyway. No damage. I did not hit anything.
• I cleaned the engine.
• I have opened the valve cover to watch the valves operate. Everything had a slight coat of amber oil. As I turned the flywheel by hand, the bottom valve articulated in and then back out. Next the top valve did the same maneuver. Both valves are closed, the flywheel became resistant as the sound of air releasing would emanate from inside the engine, like a valve being released. Flywheel would become easy to turn and the valves would repeat the process.
• Went and got new gas.
• Drained the old gas out of the fuel tank. The gas looked and smelled good (smelled like gas, I didn't see any separation). There was a little residual gas left in the very bottom of the tank.
• Removed the fuel line, from the tank to the carb. Drained all gas out of the fuel lines. Replaced fuel filter. sucked up the residual gas out of the fuel tank. Replaced fuel line.
• After several attempted starts with everything assembled again, choke open, choke closed. Repeat. The engine fired once. Repeat starting. Engine fired again once. Kept trying and trying and trying, finally the engine struggled and started. I throttled up and let it run. Smoke coming from the muffler (I guess that smoke was burn off from inside the combustion chamber). I ran it for a little while until it stopped smoking.
• Changed the breather filter. It was clogged up enough to make the engine start to gasp for air.
• Running like a sewing machine again.
• I will be changing the oil and oil filter in a week, and will probably do it again in a month.

A few people who were instrumental, and patient, in helping, thanks!
Scrubcadet10
slomo
bertsmobile1

 

[Scrubcadet10]

Great news!! thanks for letting us know