Ariens Briggs & Stratton won't start.

[D_H]

I need help. I have an Ariens 20 horse 46" riding mower from 2012. It's ran like a champ ever since I bought it new. Now, I started it up, pulled out of the garage and it died while I was driving it out of the garage and off the driveway and will not start back up.

Mower info:
Ariens: A20H46
Product: 93605300
Model: 96046002300
Engine: Briggs and Stratton Intek with XRD 540cc -> 331777-1372-B1

Things I've done since it died.

• Put a new spark plug in it. [(Calls for Champion# RC12YC - obsolete) compatible NGK - BKR5E. 7938 is what I used.] I also found and bought Briggs & Stratton 5092 PN: 496018S.
• Changed the oil and filter. (Briggs & Stratton oil PN: 100028, filter calls for B&S 492932 - obsolete, I used B&S PN: 842921.)
• Checked the fuel solenoid (it is working).
• Pulled the fuel line off of the carburetor. Fuel is going through the fuel filter and getting to the carburetor.
• Sprayed a little starter fluid into the carb air inlet. Where the air filter attaches to.
• Checked for spark. Getting spark to the plug.
• I don't have a compression tester, but the engine sounds to be getting compression when it turns over. Sounds normal. When I turn the flywheel by hand, I can feel the compression. Hard to turn, then more loose, then hard again, etc.
• I don't see any frayed wires.

 

[Scrubcadet10]

will it fire if you spray starting fluid into the intake, behind the airfilter?

 

[D_H]

• Sprayed a little starter fluid into the carb air inlet. Where the air filter attaches to. Picture attached.

 

[Scrubcadet10]

did it start/fire?

 

[D_H]

did it start/fire?

The engine will turn over just fine but not fire. It's almost like there is some type of safety switch disabling it. I just don't know what that could be though.

 

[Scrubcadet10]

So it won't even fire with starting fluid in the intake... But it has good spark... I'd start with the cheap/simple and put a new plug in it. Or take the old one out and be sure it isn't fouled.

 

[D_H]

So it won't even fire with starting fluid in the intake... But it has good spark... I'd start with the cheap/simple and put a new plug in it. Or take the old one out and be sure it isn't fouled.

Correct, it will not fire. Just turns over. Correct, good spark (according to the in-line tester).

Things I've done since it died.

• Put a new spark plug in it. [(Calls for Champion# RC12YC - obsolete) compatible NGK - BKR5E. 7938 is what I used.] I also found and bought Briggs & Stratton 5092 PN: 496018S.

Still looking for the resolution. Puzzling...

 

[slomo]

Correct, good spark (according to the in-line tester).

What type of inline tester is this? One with a simple light inside? If so toss it in the trash.

You should test the coil under LOAD. Gap an old plug to 1/4" or 6mm. Ground it out and check for spark.

Some carbs have a pilot jet on top that you can see from the outside of the carb. If yours has this same carb, the pilot jet is plugged with concrete splatter or what ever all that muck is on the outside of the carb.

Bet it needs the valves checked.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Funny.
I have 4 spark testers & the only one I use is a red globe in line tester
If it glows red when attached to the end of a spark plug then there is enough spark to ignite the fuel .
The only thing missing from your list of what you have done is check if the spark is arriving at the correct time
ie:- is the timing key in the flywheel intact ?

The usual method of doing a quick diagnosis is to give the engine a short shot of starter fluid ( I like to use carb cleaner ) down the plug hole.
And with a fresh ( or known to be good ) plug inserted give the engine a couple of good pulls.
If it has resistance to the pulls but does not go bang then either one of the valves is stuck open or the spark is happening at the wrong time .

 

[Richard Milhous]

Funny.
I have 4 spark testers & the only one I use is a red globe in line tester
If it glows red when attached to the end of a spark plug then there is enough spark to ignite the fuel .
The only thing missing from your list of what you have done is check if the spark is arriving at the correct time
ie:- is the timing key in the flywheel intact ?

The usual method of doing a quick diagnosis is to give the engine a short shot of starter fluid ( I like to use carb cleaner ) down the plug hole.
And with a fresh ( or known to be good ) plug inserted give the engine a couple of good pulls.
If it has resistance to the pulls but does not go bang then either one of the valves is stuck open or the spark is happening at the wrong time .

Usually when a flywheel key shears from hitting a rock or whatever the engine stops immediately and you know what you hit, but I once had one that had apparently sheared previously but the flywheel didn't move enough at the time to notice. It later shifted from nothing but heavy grass that couldn't have sheared the key. But usually when an engine stops abruptly, it's lack of spark or fuel or (N/A for this case) a thrown rod or broken timing belt.

I use a timing light for spark detection, it's pretty reliable and lots more fun than just grabbing the plug contact.