Almost hydro-locked from a fuel leak

Everything went back together very well. All the linkage is hooked up according to the pictures I took. Changed the oil and the filter before starting. Put in fresh fuel. Put in a new shut off valve for the fuel and a new fuel filter, as well as new spark plug. Added some Sea Foam to the fuel, as well a some Stabil. Turned on the fuel valve and waited a few minutes for the fuel bowl to fill. Took a deep breath, applied the choke and turned the key. Started right up. Let it idle for a few minutes at low RPM while watching for leaks.

Shut it off and let it sit for a few minutes to see if the carb was leaking into the cylinder. After about 20 minutes I tried turning the engine by hand, listening for any gurgling like it was doing before. The engine turned freely and no gurgling so started it up again and it ran well so went ahead and mowed part of the yard. Stopped and changed the oil and drained the filter and put it back on. Refilled with oil and mowed a bit more, then changed both the oil and the filter.

Noticed that the engine starts a bit easier now. Before the work, I usually had to use the choke to start the engine after it had been sitting for just 20 minutes or so but now it starts right away with no need to choke so that's good. Probably the new spark plug has helped.

This was all on Monday. This morning I went out and checked it again for any signs that the fuel was leaking into the cylinder and saw and heard nothing. Engine turned freely by hand so I guess the needle/seat are holding pressure as they should. Started right up and idled nice and smooth. Mowed the rest of the yard with no issues and changed the oil and the filter again. The viscosity looked normal, not "watery" like the first change so I think all the gas is out of the crankcase. Put on a new filter again and refilled.

Thanks to you guys, my wife thinks I'm a genius. Now I have a spare carb if needed. I'll post any updates if something changes. Any other tips are always appreciated.
 
Last edited:
DHook said:
Just finished the real world testing. The first 4 pictures are of the beginning of the test. The last three are after 30 minutes of having fuel sitting in the full bowl and clear fuel line. I saw no change in the fuel level in the syringe or from the mark I made on the clear tubing. The picture inside the throat of the carb show no fuel visible before or after the test so I think the needle is seating as it should with no leaks.
View attachment 73090View attachment 73091View attachment 73092View attachment 73093View attachment 73094View attachment 73095View attachment 73096
Next is to put it back on the mower and change the oil and see if it will start/run ok. It's only about 40 degrees here today so it will have to wait until Monday or Tuesday.

Clean up time.
Click to expand...
The third picture from the left. You need to remove that syringe. It doesn't let AIR into the line. Same as capping your clear hose off. Fuel will sit in one place. Only insert the syringe if you need to add fuel to the line.
 
DHook said:
I do have a shut off valve installed and as I mentioned early on, I've always been shutting off the fuel and run the engine dry. However, SloMo (I think) suggested this can cause the problem I'm having now because the rubber tip on the needle can dry out and not seal correctly next season. So now I'm going to leave the carb full and rely on the Stabil fuel treatment to keep things fresh.
Click to expand...
YES on the you need a shut off valve and USE IT after every mow.

YES to using the plain old school StaBil version of their product. NOT their new 360 wonder mix or that other Stabil Marine flavor think they make. Smallest bottle and keep it moving as to stay fresher. Stabil has a 2 year shelf life I think it is. Keep this in mind. Reason why I mention the shelf life.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top