13.5 hp briggs

[upnorth]

I asked Fish to move my original thread here but I guess it takes time. ANYWAY -
I finished mowing yestrday and the engine started to make a wierd noise - something like CLUNG, CLUNG, CLUNG with a reduction in rpm-s, then back up to normal rpm-s then CLUNG again and so forth.
I started dis-assembly today and the valves are still in one piece. the pushrods were still where they belong, there was no metal filings in the valve chamber.
The upper pushrod with the red stripe was still ok. the bottom pushrod didn't look like the upper one. The ends were polished at the very ends. There was no appearance of the ball end like the upper one.
Its that noise that's got me stumped. Later today I'm going to remove the head.

 

[Fish]

Removal of the head won't tell you much, post all of your engine's model numbers here so we know what you have. I am guessing that you may have a counterweight
and the link that mounts it to the block may be broken, but that is just if you have one, which the model numbers will tell us. Or it could be something on the engine top, like broken magnets and alternator.

As far as me moving anything here, they won't let me do anything other than make posts.

 

[upnorth]

numbers off the fan shroud are:
28N707
0166 01
9604024A

 

[Fish]

Yep, you have a counterweight, so that is a good possibility. But to verify, you have to pull the engine to see things. But first, drain the oil and look closely for
crumbled aluminum and other metal slivers, etc...

briggs

It is reference # 758, briggs part #692423

 

[upnorth]

I was gonna pull the engine anyways and clean it up a bit.
I'll do what you said, draining the oil etc and looking.
I found parts available from ereplacements and repairclinic.com
one quote for a counter balance was for $192 and change.
how do you get the magneto off? there's a tapered shaft and a woodruff key.

 

[upnorth]

When I used to work for a guy that crushed cars, he had a bunch of honda generators - and - they would break. The rotor is mounted on the crankshaft on a tapered shaft and one through-bolt. I found that if I could find an open area where the tapered part was, I could give it a sharp rap with a brass drift pin and a hammer, the rotor would pop off the shaft. I wonder if this would work with the flywheel/magneto?

 

[Fish]

They have a puller, and two 3/8 bolts near the crankshaft for a puller, it won't take much. just use a standard puller and give it a smack to pop the flywheel loose.

 

[upnorth]

I got the flywheel off without any problems. There were two - 5/16-18 tapped holes, 180 degrees apart. I sort of jimmy rigged a flat narrow access bearing splitter. It had two 3/8 holes in it that just cleared the 5/16-18 bolts. Those with upward pressure on the flywheel bolt provided just enough oomph to pop it free.
Next in order is to unbolt the engine from the frame and get to work on the double pulley and shaft.
In the specs on the model number, there is a letter after the cu in displacement [28N] Is the letter of any importance? Book says it has to do with cylinder head construction etc. The next to last number is a zero - this says [0 - Plain Bearing/DU
Non芳lange Mount - I know what the non flange mount means. What's the DU mean?

 

[Fish]

A du bearing is just a thin flange bearing that presses in the bearing area that has been milled to that diameter, nothing like a ball or needle bearing.

 

[Fish]

du bearing - Bing Images

Looks like this.