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ok now. I've repaired many of these heads in the past. Remove head, the guide has about 3/16" at top of head under spring. You can buy a set screw package at harbor fright. Tap guide back into head this amount, Find the thickest place on head between cooling fins and drill a hole until the drill...

Must remove carb and in ultrasonic cleaner, remove the air mixture screw also so after 15 minutes of cleaning use compressor to blow out all ports. Replace all intake gaskets or seals. This should fix surging problem, and adjust mixture screw at idle if needed.

Have you ever heard motor run? The plastic gear do wear out, and there's reasons why, and since the cover and flywheel will need to come off to replace the starter make sure flywheel key is not damaged, have a full charged battery, no gas in cylinders and all flywheel teeth are there valves are...

well does throttle work now ?

Check to make sure you put the gov rod in the correct hole.

Well the round orange or black seals are used with plastic intake manifolds and the cardboard / paper type are used with metal type intakes. Best to get new rubber o rings at local mower shop. If reusing them use a tiny amount of silicone sealer. Just a little.

Maybe if you have enough room just add a small inline fuel filter with new hose and hose clamps.

Second pic because you need enough room to install the gov linkage also.

Any updates

A bad pto switch can be the problem or a broken wire end inside the pto switch harness. Look closely at each gold color wire end foe a 1/2 missing tab.

The ignition switch is bad. Replace with the correct switch not one that looks the same!

Wire ends do break inside pto harness plug! Look closely and maybe you will see half the gold wire end missing.

A bad pto switch will not let the motor crank, just sayin.

Just you a socket with a opening bigger then the armature, put it inside brushes and push into place.

A backfire is a pop sound coming out of the carb bore, not really the muffler. What you have going on is either a problem with the muffler coming apart internally or a exhaust valve or seat problem. If you do a good clean carb like you said I would check for these issues.

Sounds like one of the valve guides are backing out of the head or valve seat is loose. Do compression test, should have 120psi or better.

You need to remove the black plastic lock on mixture screw and remove needle to clean port also. Don't forget to replace rubber orange intake seal at the head along with other gaskets. Or maybe just replace carb with a new carb.

If valves are adjusted right at .004 and stops cranking the compression release built onto camshaft is broken. Needs to be replaced along with case gasket and lower seal. It only takes about 2 hours to do if lower pulley slides off.

The red wire at the ign switch plug is the 12 volt feed not the white wire. Put a test light at back side of wire harness and turn key to is if switch is sending voltage out to starter solenoid. If power is coming out of switch test at starter solenoid the same way. If good there make sure...

Simple test. Without motor running Push throttle to fast position, then with your best finger pull back the governor arm, if arm has tension on it and pushes back that good. Now put throttle at low speed and again use your best finger and push on governor arm again, there should not be any or...

Nice to read that you are up and running again.

To figure out if you have a fuel pump problem just test pump as I posted earlier. Easy to do. This will conferm good or bad. Works every time, vacuum gauge can be a repair shops best friend.

7 years is way past the life off the carb pump gasket. Sounds like engine is flooding out because carb gaskets are hard. This condition will flood engine in just a couple pulls. 1st thing to do is a compression test 98-130 psi is good. Next remove muffler a look at piston for scratches or bad...

Ok now. You have a bad switch somewhere. Seat switch is 2 wires, jump across harness, try to start. if no start jump Brake switch same thing. If no start do same thing to reverse switch. If deck has mulch plug check switch. So if it starts being jumped replace that switch. Not the best way to...

Make sure the tensioner pivot is not rusted and pulling all the way off. If not the brake pads will never touch spindle pullies. If brakes are not hitting pullies that is something to check. Also make sure cable is in the grove by flat idler pulley.

Make sure the tensioner pivot is not rusted and pulling all the way off. If not the brake pads will never touch spindle pullies. If brakes are not hitting pullies that is is something to check. Also make sure pto cable is in the grove by flat idler pulley.

Sounds like float is getting stuck someplace with float bowl, causing needle not to work correctly. Maybe you should just get new carb?

Only purchase the tank from a 4/5 star rating seller. I've had same problem. Cheaper is just cheap. Good rating good product.

Nice to read that your running again.

ok, use a vac/fuel pressure gauge at fuel pump and test positive and negative readings. Pulse line should show 1 1/2 lbs. or more, suck side of pump should read - 1 1/2 lbs, and out side of pump to carb is 1 1/2 lbs. If all good and hoses are on right ports it will pump. If all hoses are correct...

Did you replace fuel pump yet? If so what was the outcome?

.004 is correct. Both valves. At top dead center on compression stroke. Beware that intake valve is the lower valve. Sounds like valves not adjusted correctly, battery low or compression release broken.

Thanks, To hot? Remember that our military folks are wearing a lot of heavy stuff in temps much hotter. That's hot. Just sayin. Please let me know outcome.

Did the fuel pump help?

Did my reply happen, having trouble sending info.

Put vac gauge on suck port, should have -1.5 reading red side, put gauge on push port going to carb should have +1.5 reading green side. Test shows good pump is good. Ck for pulse any movement good. Ck for clog from tank to pump, ck power to carb solenoid and ground.

Put vac gauge on suck port, should have -1.5 reading red side, put gauge on push port going to carb should have +1.5 reading green side. Test shows good pump is good. Ck for pulse any movement good. Ck for clog from tank to pump, ck power to carb solenoid and ground.

Ok, from what you say the carb needs to removed and cleaned the correct way, with a ultrasonic cleaner, I use it every time with lean running carbs. Fixes 95% of the time with new intake gaskets. Or just replace carb with new carb. Some times cleaner can't fix it. Really never had any problems...

If these test show positive you have a defective fuel solenoid or fuel clog from fuel supply ( the fuel tank) to the fuel pump.

You can test the fuel pump. The suck side should have 1- 1/2 neg vacuum. Out side to carb should have 1-1/2 psi. You can check these with old time vacuum gauge. Green reading is push side to carb and red reading is suck side to gas supply. To test for pulse just put vac gauge at pulse outlet, if...

Make and model of mower?

I need make and model of your mower. A pic would also be nice. Maybe I can help you.

Thanks for a reply Freddie21. You are correct with angles of idlers. They have about a 1/4" lip that keeps belt on if brackets do bend some, normal after some time. Just like helping mower people. 32 years at outdoor power shop I've come across things most techs over look. I have comebacks like...

Also you can slowly pull pto handle back almost all the way but not complety and belt should not come off as a test the worn out brake pads, lets us know the outcome.

Might sound crazy but you need to replace the spindle brake shoes. Look at the brake shoes or pads that push against the right side spindle pulley and you will see deep groves in it. What happens is the deck belt gets pinched turning in oppiset dirrections and the belt will always come off. The...

Kill switch is not being pulled far enough so no spark. Adjust brake handle cable tighter, cable will slide after time and will need adjustment.

Is this a walk behind type mower with handle you pull to release the flywheel brake? If it is make sure the cable is not sliding upwards where the 7/16 nut is by pull handle. if it slide up the kill switch at the motor will not open and you will not have spark. Cable end should be about 1/2 to 1...

The Kohler motor has a vent tube that goes under the plastic air filter housing and will dry and crack then fall off and suck anything in. Maybe check there.

From what I read you have a intake valve seat loose in the head, a bent or warped intake valve, or guide sliding out of the head.

Did you do a compression test? Popping at high rpm is because intake valve is not seating properly, or valve seat and guide are not where they should be. Even with good compression you will still get popping.