Need advice on installing crankshaft lower seal.

At one time they made thin plastic tube to slip into seals and over the crank journals but I haven't seen them in a long time. Might try cut out a section of the plastic 2 liter soft drink bottle.
the ends would to meet when wrapped around the journal. Using oil on the plastic the seal and sleeve should slip over the journal. You still to tap the seal into place.
 
you won't have any trouble But, if you do you can get some thin shim stock from McMaster-Carr, maybe .002" or so, and wrap it around the crankshaft to help slide the seal over any ridges. Cleaning the crank nose, some grease on it, and the seal should slide over it. Might want to check the breather to be sure it is open if the engine has been pushing oil out. Also retorque the engine cover if it is exposed. Should the leak continue, you can get some oil dye from Napa, and a UV flashlight. It will tell you quickly where the oil leaks from.
 
The oil is definitely coming out from the shaft seal. I replaced that seal last year and it did OK until a plastic bag I didn't see got wrapped around the shaft, then started leaking again. I had totally forgotten oil dye existed; thanks for reminding me.
 
if you use pop bottle plastic, sand the edges because they can have sharp edges that can cut the seal. Otherwise that is a quick source for an installer if the seal hangs on any lips/ridges.
 
Chainsaw guys cut up a popcan with scissors to make a shim to wrap around the crank. I have done it a bunch of times replacing crank seals on chainsaws.
 
Couple things,

OEM seals
Check tech manual as to which way the seal is orientated (spring up, or down). They are not always the same.
With seal removed, check the sump and see if there is a small hole, in the seal's cavity, which supplies oil to the seal. If so, the seal cannot be inserted enough to block the hole. If no hole, there's usually a lip to limit depth.
If using a pipe, etc., make sure it's diameter matches the outside edge of the seal only. Most people won't have a socket deep enough to clear the length of the crank.
As stated, make sure the seal's edge, at the crank, does not roll.

I've had very good luck with doing this with the engine still mounted. Best of luck.
 
If you still have old seal that's still in good condition put it next to new seal and tap your pipe or whatever you are using to push new seal into place. Then pop old seal out.
 
I always do the usual things like clean the area of the seal and the crankshaft to remove any rust or debris that could damage the new seal. Right before installing the new seal I rub a light coat of black RTV around the outside edge of the seal to help with stopping the seal from popping back out during the motor running. I also use a piece of pvc pipe that is close as possible to the outer diameter of the seal and the tap it back into its seating area. For the Briggs intek motors I found a pvc tapered adapter that allows the seal to be driven in place to the correct depth and does not damage the outer metal rim. I have never had any failures after installing the new seals using this process.
 
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