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My jumper box cablw clamps are small. I can connect them and have them lay horizonal and the seat does not touch them. Same with my charger cables. Or, you coyld jump to the starter solenoid (+) and engine block (-).

As they indicated, 2amp is best for the battery. 10amp if you need it quick.

Buy new, you'll get lots of years out of them. Not going to keep it that long, tubes are a cheaper alternative. If badly dry rotted and side cracked, new would be the best. If installing tubes, I always remove the tire, make sure its clean and smooth inside and grind off any weld splatter...

Leave the starter cable off the solenoid. With a test light, or meter, check for 12v at the ungrounded small solenoid wire. With key NOT in the start position, there should be no voltage at that wire. If there is, the solenoid will be energized and the starter would always be powered. That...

I have induced surging, many times, by using an Amazon type carb. Clean and rebuild the OEM carb.

I agree to try and turn engine by hand. If can't remove the spark plug. Turn over a few times to clean the jug. Leave plug out. If you have jumper cables, connect black to battery Neg and the other end to a clean spot on the engine's case. Connect the red to the starter's power connection...

It connects to the Red wire that comes from the A1 ign switch. Black solenoid wire attaches to the engine body or a part attached to it.

Kjonxx knows, those can be borrowed from Auto Zone, etc

Not saying that I recommend this, but you could look into something like this extended to change the shaft ID...

I would do a dry and wet compression test, then followed by a leak down test to troubleshoot the problem.

Before doing anything, I would suggest you try to seal the tire. If it's a leak in the tread area, a plug typically works. If it's leaking along the sidewalls, the only product I have found to work is TireJect Off-Road Sealant. It works great and every time, for me. 5oz. for front tires and...

I would make sure you have a jumper pack on the machine just in case.

7394 has it right.

As a quick check, squirt some carb cleaner, or fuel, into the carb throat and try and start it. If it attempts to run, then follow the guys suggestions. Also, I would remove the spark plug to see if it's wet and check for spark. No spark, let us know.

I have had a lot of luck using JB Weld and a couple pop rivets, or small bolts. If you using brake your own pads, make sure you counter sink the rivets, or bolt heads.

Fuel or water in gas? Drain and refill tank. Replace fuel and air filters.

For another path to find the problem, Ground the jumper NEG cable end to the engine block, touch the POS cable end to the starter connection. The starter should spin and the engine should turn over. Won't start as key switch in OFF position. If not, then I would remove the starter and bench...

Solomo, TDC, Valves and choke closed. I don't read the actual psi value. Use a rough measurement. Leak down, even at low psi, leaked into crankcase. I haven't opened the engine. Too cold to work on now. Left this info for suggestion.

I have an engine here now that is doing same thing. Everything seems right. 60psi compression. Wasn't till I did a leak down test that I found rings bad. Chinese PowerCrap engine, I don't think it's worth the price of parts.

Thanks Guys. I wondered about the brake and the clutch adjustments. It appears I only have to raise the pedal about 2 inches and the trans engages. I'm not sure where the brake does. Sounds like I have too much belt tightness, or grab. I will try making the brake grab very low first.

Bad wire, then the problem cylinder would follow the coil's placement. Coils were said to be replaced.

Hi All, I have a question regarding lawn tractors such as a Craftsman LT100, 917-273373, 6 speed gear trans. Any any like it. They like to lurch forward and lift the front wheels off the ground when the clutch is let out in anything over 2nd gear. What is causing this and how to correct? The one...

Rocky has good idea and checking the valves is also good. Do a compression test on both cylinders and compare each.

I've seen many bad plugs, especially if oil or fuel soaked.

50\50% for the cheap carbs for me. At least, a cheap trouble shooting tool. I also will use them for the internal parts to rebuild OEM ones. Just cuz the fuel lines look good, doesn't mean they are. They can close up internally just like your arteries.

I would pull the spark plugs and replace them. If fuel got into the intake, they may not have fired correctly and caused the backfire. Many mowers can run when you're out of the seat if the parking brake is on and the PTO is off.

Don't jump in and start replacing parts until problem is isloated. As the Guys have suggested, get good flow from the tank at the pump 1st. Inside the tank is where many problems lie. Fuel line from it to the pump, next. Wait on replacing filter till you get good flow. Now the pump. Are...

Did you remove all the jets and clean both the jet and the socket? How about the needle and seat? If you're going to blow are thru the gas inlet, not too much pressure as some seats can be blown out. With the carb off and upside down, the float should be parallel to the carb body.

Try spraying choke cleaner around the carb and intake are while it is running. If the speed changes, you have found a vacuum leak. Put in all new gaskets. You're not getting enough fuel flow thru the carb or too much air thru a leak. If speed does not change, then clean the carb again making...

Once running and for storage, I would either change to ethynol free gas, or use a fuel additive and run the engine with the fuel shut off until it stalls. Fuel sitting in the carb over long periods of time will gel and block the jets in the carb. If not there, you will have to install an...

I had a similar setup, but had closeable vents that I would open during the time the generator was running. Why take a chance? Play it safe.

Try a leak down test on both cylinders. More accurate than compression especially for ring leak.

I think you're jumping the gun with an engine diagram. First, determine what's is obvious as being wrong and go from there. Once you see damage, then you'll figure wither you want to tear the whole engine apart, or not. Remove the spark plug, try rocking the flywheel back and forth and watch...

Here's the service manual for that series engine....https://resources.kohler.com/power/kohler/enginesUS/pdf/tp_2339_d.pdf

If the leak is small, I would try this leak fixer, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D5M1TGJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1. It is the only one I've used that will cure a cracked side wall. Price is decent, about the same as buying a tube. Only use 1\2 pouch depending on...

If 3\16" is the ID, just buy locally at auto parts, get fuel acceptable hose. Can be thin wall. If the engine doesn't run with no hose, I would try attaching a short length to the air cleaner and plug it. May be causing vacuum leak. If still doesn't run, try opening the gas cap. This is for...

Briggs are pretty simple: Fuel solenoid, if equipped (grey?) Ground the solenoid Usually Black to kill wire 3 amp stator has a Red with a diode to charge the battery and an orange for the head lites (Maybe Backwards) 10 amp should have two wires (yellow or white) to the regulator and a single...

Another form of retainer would be more expensive to purchase and install. The shaft would have to have a hole in it or threaded.

I have done that.

WTF Rox?

I must have missed something, I thought this is a lawn mower forum? Not pc back to the future.

Like Ran said, oil filter the oil filler tube's O ring and the valve cover gaskets are everyday leaks.

The main seal is not that difficult to replace and is not a large expense. That's if the engine pully comes right off. No need to pull the engine off. The oil will ride down the crank and settle on the pulley. Mine would be intermittent. Couple of sheet metal screws into the seal and it...

Does that mean if it's threaded all the way and a nut is installed and tightened, it's a screw?

Loosen the valve rocker and pully the push rod out. Is it bent. If not, reinsert it and holding pressure against the top, turn the engine by have and see if it goes up and down. If so, reinstall the rocker and set the valve lash at .005" just a bit after TDC. One thing to check after you get...

That pic does not look like a RC12YC. It is a 5\8" diameter, that is a 3\4" plug. A RN12YC is the large plug. I buy in sets of 8 from Amazon and never had a bad one. $2-3 each.

Unbolting the engine is easy. 4 bolts then just slide the engine back. No need to disconnect anything. When reinstalling the bolts.\, you can usually see where the engine sat and the hole line up easy. If the pulleys don't fall off, this is the method I use.

I agre with GearHead. If the yard is flat and few obstructions to go around, then a tractor or smaller SW ZT would be better. I have 2 Cub ZTR-S's and and a Toro SW4200 and love them all. Thank God, no repairs on any of them. 3 acres of decent sized hills. I would recommend going larger...

IF it is less than three years old call your local Lowes store. They replaced mine with a newer model one after I decided to clean the deck underside with a power washer. Blew the motor even though I let it dry for a week. I just rolled it in and carted a new one out in the box. My son gave...