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Boy you’re making a lot of fuss on a piece of equipment that’s leaking fuel!!! Maybe if you would spend a little time telling us where it’s leaking and what you’ve done to solve the problem we might be able to help you out. Is it leaking at the tank? Is the crankcase filling with fuel? Is...

Best advice I can give you is to take the engine numbers to a Scag dealer and see if they can back check which models use that engine. Or contact Scag directly.

I’ve been servicing mowers for 50 years and Craftsman is a mower I would never recommend. A steel deck mower will never last 20 years, unless it spends 80% of its life in the shed. Craftsman parts are getting to be harder to get, as you don’t know who is manufacturing the mowers, Husqvarna and...

All depends what the type of use, keeping the deck top and bottom clean, checking all pulleys, etc. Most manufacturers recommend changing every three to five years. At eight years old I would recommend changing yours.

Verify that the guide has moved before replacing the head. As I stated the guide does protrude above the head base. A good repair shop should be able to help you.

Two different starters were used on that model engine, depending on the manufacturing date. I suggest you do one of two things. Go to an authorized Briggs service dealer and have them contact their distributor for the correct part number or contact Briggs directly through their website. Make...

Sgkent, that is the vent as Star stated, not fuel inlet. Fuel will also leak out the fuel vent if the gasket between the carb body and base is compromised.

This manual may help you out. Valve guides are above the head body. https://www.hunterlomison.com/pdfs/0C8221.pdf

Lawn boy parts number 100-2948.

Working in a trade school I had access to many different types of materials. Metal formed very easily, but the environment of a shop got banged around leaving openings around the filter which would leak. Plastic solved that problem and as I said reduced the number of times hands and wrist were...

Metal was a material I tried, but found that it would not hold its form. Easily distorted especially the area around the filter. Plus it had sharp corners and edges, which caused an increase in the bandaid supply. I forgot to add that once you size the plastic around the filter, heat the...

Back when I was teaching, ran into this problem on a wide variety of engines. Made about a half dozen what I call oil troughs. Here’s what I had my students do. Get a piece of polyethylene plastic about 6” X 8”X1/8”. Get a new or cleaned up used filter you need a solution for, two work...

No deck wheels.

I’ve run the mulching setup year round for the last 30 years and have never had a problem. I like the way it the yard looks after each cutting. Yes there iss a problem if you must cut when the grass is wet or has gotten too long, it clears up the next time I cut. You will have to clean the...

WARNING. Any one who opens up any transaxle you must realize that many parts are sharper than any knives in your kitchen. Be very careful and have a few good bandaids on hand.

Star, I agree with you to a point. Problem is the 00 grease will not mix with Bentinite so to switch over to grease you will have to split the transmission, remove all the Bentinite and then replace with grease. From experience I can tell you this is a dirty and messy job.

Doing a little research I think your unit uses a model 918-0551A peerless transmission. If I am correct it uses Bentinite clay based lube. There should be an ID tag on the transmission, but it may be difficult to find. Here’s where I found that transmission number...

Original module should be #681578, superseded to 100-2949.

Here is the reassembly order I suggest you follow. 1. Admit that I’m smarter than those on this forum who have tried to help me. This is because I don’t understand what they are saying and don’t need to answer their questions. Even smarter than those who produced the parts diagram. 2. Admit...

I doubt that it is possible, as the OP must do that. Most times they don’t even post back and say thanks. They are the only ones who know the end results.

Not you for sure. I don’t know why I keep following this thread, but it has gotten so bad I have to warn others not to use anything you suggest to do. The part #57 you call a bolt and washer is just a specific type of bolt with NO separate washer. It is called a Tower Lawn & Garden Equipment...

I’m just showing my age and background. I guess we’re just calling them a different name, but we will end up with the same results When using the proper one.

Star, that’s what I call a hog ring. C-clip to me looks like a snap ring with no holes for a pliers. Some people call them E-clips.

Fixing a deck with duck tape? Red Green would be proud to you.

He said he took a C-clip off with a screwdriver. Maybe my age is getting to me, but I’ve never seen a C-clip used as a retainer on a Briggs starter. If he is to be believed I suspect someone has had this apart in the past. 10mm 1/4” deep socket works well for me.

I don’t have the right tool, but I’ve done so many that a good side cutting pliers has become my go to tool. I’m just getting upset that so many come here thinking we have a crystal cutting and get mad when we require more info from them. Also, since battling sepsis for the last seven months...

Not wasting my time, but yours, as we can’t help without good information. Briggs uses 3 different starters. If you can’t find engine numbers you’ll have a difficult time removing and replacing the hog ring which holds the Bendix in place. I’m speaking from experience here.

Only thing I can suggest at this point is to check every repair shop and small engine boneyard within your area for a used one. I’m lucky as I have a huge boneyard about 75 miles from me that has bailed me out multiple times.

Not up, but out to create more tension on the spring.

Since you supply us with very little info, it is impossible for us to even make a guess. We don’t know the type of blade you have, Star hole, round hole and thread size in the crankshaft, length of shaft extending out, etc. Don’t know the brand of mower or model or why you are replacing the...

I would take a needle nose pliers and bend the metal your finger is on in the first photo. Bend it approximately an 1/8” out to expand the spring, putting more tension on the governor. Start the engine with the control ar high speed and see if there is any change. Report back.

Try this one. https://mchenry-power-equipment-inc.mybigcommerce.com/genuine-ayp-sears-husqvarna-door-rear-22-craft-fg-rg-eba-part-581747804/ https://www.appliancepartspros.com/hus-door-rear-22-581747804-ap6182672.html?srsltid=AfmBOopseTHIoa1Hf_aSzWhYR9NB8rlh8lAd9rPpuGi0h1n4frCXzXPz

Google search using the part number I listed shows many available.

I don’t know where you got those part numbers, but when I search your model number I come up with part number 581747804 for the rear door.

The experienced techs on this forum hate guessing when we have so little information. Without having all engine numbers we have no idea what you need Each engine manufacturer has multiple engines with multiple starters. You don’t even provide us with the engine brand. We are good at helping...

Those gears are over the hill and need replacing. Toro part number 131-5399. In your other thread you stated they were in good, no where close, which is why I never suggested changing them. Also tells me you really didn’t spend much time looking at the manual I posted. Must have been too...

Harmonic ringing on an electric mower is normally caused by either a blade which is unbalanced or a motor going bad. I would remove the blade and run the mower. Noise gone blade bent or unbalanced. Noise still there, motor going bad.

Snapper used about a half dozen different discs. Need model number to determine which one you need.

If you have no voltage in step three, that would indicate to me you need to check the following. This is the times where even experienced technicians start to pull their hair out and question their sanity. Good Luck. 1. You say you changed the key switch and. Have you checked to make sure...

I’m NOT saying go purchase more parts with out doing more investigation. It would be much easier if I was standing next to see what you’re seeing. That being the case, this is what I would do. 1. Remove the deck. 2. One at a time remove each pulley and carriage bolt and check that there is...

After watching the video again and looking at the parts diagram I’ve got more questions than suggestions. When you replaced parts, did you use OEM parts? Small pulley Husqvarna part number 532177968 Large pulley Husqvarna part number 532197379 Belt Husqvarna part number 592855001 According to...

In the video I see two things I don’t like. One, the large idler pulley is at an angle. The idler tensioner arm may be bent. Second, when disengaging the PTO, both idler pulleys wobble, indicating to me that either pulley bearings are bad or the studs are worn. Either of these can cause the...

Owners manual states the following: 5. TRANSPORTING 1. Disengage power to attachment(s) when transporting or not in use. 2. Do not tow this machine. Use a suitable truck or trailer when transporting on public roads. 3. Use extra care when loading or unloading the machine into a trailer or truck...

You’ve posted 2 threads with the same problem and have done what experienced techs never do, THROW PARTS AT IT TO SEE WHAT STICKS. As Star said you need someone to hold your hand and I will give it a try, but I’m assuming you have some electrical circuit knowledge. Here are two procedures on...

There should be retainer ring holding the bearing hoc in place. This service manual should help you out. https://www.toro.com/getpub/22446

This might help you identify the regulator you are looking for. https://www.briggsandstratton.com/content/dam/briggsandstratton/na/en_us/Files/FAQs/alternator_replacement.pdf

Easy there Adam, you’re the one who’s coming on strong. IL has been around for more years than you’ve been working on mowers. We can’t provide accurate information if we are given bad information. That part number is not an Oregon part number. Wouldn’t be the first time big fingers or bad...

Try this site. This is one time I highly recommend going through and double checking with a Stihl dealer, as if it doesn’t fit you should be able to return it. https://www.diyspareparts.com/parts/stihl/diagrams/fs-66/

Did you ever go through the procedure I posted to pinpoint a cause?

Please double check your model number. When I plug it into parts lookup, it comes up as a simple push mower, not self propelled.