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I'd say it's time to head down to the local supply house and get a new idler. Should be fairly simple to match up one with what you have. Can do just so much with some really moth eaten parts, been there myself many times.

The angle of the tip is something to consider too. A steep angle is a bit stronger for rough area mowing while a longer narrow angle might stay sharp longer. With that angle I can usually sharpen the blades in mid season and at the end ready for next year.

That little plastic end on the bigger line keeps the line from coming out and I suppose meters the return gas from the carb for priming.

Hard to find a bearing the same size. Bushings are pretty thin, large ID for the shaft with a relatively small OD for the wheel bore. Might find a caged needle bearing that's close, take some work to get it shimmed etc. to work, and those are pretty pricey.

How old is this mower? Flat head or OHV motor. Without knowing more I'd think a timing issue or an exhaust restriction.

Been mowing grass for 50 years or so and never hit a metal piece that would damage the mower. Tree roots are a different story. We used to have a little Huffy mower with swing back blade tips on a big disc underneath. Had the grass discharge on both ends and a swing over handle. Great for a...

Looks to be a commercial build, might have been a volume special order, Good thing is that Lawn Boy parts are pretty universal across the brand.

Maybe the only thing different is the pulley size and location. The Hydro (?) probably has a different brake setup too. Take a couple measurements of the bolt centers, axle diameter, side to side length. If it matches up and you are handy this probably could be made to work.

This is what I use as a dryer for blasting. Fill the bucket with water and let it run enough to keep the water cold. Not fancy, but it works..

I don't think gray oil is from moisture. Possibly from metallic particles that have spalled off and gotten sheared into powder and suspended in the oil. Might do another oil change with some heavier oil and get some more use out of it.

Small lot in town, I'd go with battery if no other two stroke equipment in your garage. I like the straight shaft trimmers and I'd like to try one with the automatic loading spool. Loading the cut line is just an aggravation on most. I'd look for a battery trimmer and blower combo with the...

I might be missing something here, probably. But what's to stop the compressed air from blowing back up into the feed bottle? Would need an ejector or something to draw the medium into the air stream. Pretty neat to 'print' out that adapter for sure!

Is this the gear at the wheel? I'd hit it with some heat, propane torch might do it.

And you're still losing some on the reading with the hose and fittings. That's a Boss Hoss chainsaw there. I wonder if the JD motor has a vacuum leak between the carb and the cylinder that's running lean?

When you turn the key to the first position do the headlights come on as normal?

I do the half width swipe or mow 1/2 inch higher and then mow at normal depth. The double cut seems to have less clippings laying on the lawn to turn brown and look like crap. And super sharp blades when really needed, like this week.

I'd guess that is a pretty smooth lawn? That's amazing time for that amount of mowing I think.

He's smarter than he looks, thank goodness.

Check for flywheel magnet, hold/hang a long screwdriver about 3/4 inch away from the magnet, should pull the screwdriver in pretty solidly.

I wonder if the blade adapter might be out of whack in some way. those things aren't made real strong I think. I'd pull the spark plug, rig up a guide pointer and rotate the blade around and see that it runs the same depth up and down and the same distance (runout) from side to side.

Does sound like a lean out condition. Dies out, throttle goes wide open, enrichment port opens up. I'd guess you're missing a small port or jet not getting cleaned out in the carb.

Oil smoke is basically unburned oil. If the motor is actually burning the oil it might not be visible, might smell a bit though. A whole season around here would sure make it possible to burn most of 18 or 20oz of modern oil, especially this year.

You need that special Lawn Boy bearing installation grease, $33.95 for a two ounce tube. Just kidding, welcome to the forum !

Used to see what they called Yard Phones with full enclosed muffs and built in radio. Not real expensive but I wonder how good the sound deadening really is.

Weak spark is kind of rare with electronic ignition, points? Welcome to the forum. Might have noticed the stuff on Ebay is generally somewhat expensive unlike most other brands. No $20 (new) carbs to be had for the oil burners.

Something like this maybe: https://www.menards.com/main/outdoors/outdoor-power-equipment/lawn-mowers/brute-reg-21-163cc-gas-push-lawn-mower/11a-a06n778/p-1444441249904-c-10112.htm

For a young guy, city yards, one year (?) commitment I'd go gas push with Briggs & Stratton engine. Look for a mower with larger sized wheels, side discharge that can convert to mulch. Large sized muffler so not to aggravate the neighbors. Check oil, clean fresh gas, good to go.

First thing is to unhook the wires from the stator to the regulator, rev up the motor and check the AC voltage, should be well over 20 volts I think. One thing I've ran into are the magnets on the inside of the flywheel. Was this a new flywheel? Flywheel magnets: and much more fun to watch:

That's what I'm getting and it's getting much worse today. Only site I see this so far.

I'd go with the new mower too. That K62 is a similar design as the smaller box and at 300 hours may be starting to get weak when hot. And for sure go with that extended warranty and at that price you might get it thrown in as part of the deal or at least a discount. Nice to have new stuff too I...

I've been getting a yellow banner the last couple days with a similar message too. I just wait a couple seconds for it to go away. Firefox browser. I guess this is common, may be tied to something running in the background from Adobe from what I've read.

I'd pull the spindle apart, get the old bearing and race out, take it to a local NAPA dealer if one is around. Most bearings are standardized and the actual parts might match up to a standard unit. Still not cheap, those look to be real quality bearings, but sure not even close to $1400.

Some later carbs have a rubber seat for the float valve rather than a rubber tipped needle. Might look for this and check for a foreign piece of anything in there too.

No, but reaching a real live person for customer service these days is an exercise in futility. If the FAQ doesn't get the answer you need you're out of luck. So much for a "service economy." Don't know if any other brand has any better support but I'd sure look elsewhere. Locally Cub Cadet...

Those pesky two strokes are pretty particular about the exhaust. I'd guess some idle mixture adjusting is needed for the new muffler due to lower restriction.

I'd suspect the blade brake.

If you're seeing voltage at the terminal on the starter you either have a bad starter or the motor is locked. Will the motor turn over by hand? If so I'd look into the actual starter motor being shot.

Idler pulley? Take a nut off one of the other idlers and take it with you. Most farm fleet, tractor supply, or mower shops will have a new idler to match yours and nut to put it on with. Or just head down to the nearest John Deere dealer with your tractor model and serial numbers.

I'd guess you're getting a ground through the starter windings with the open circuit.

Sometimes you can hit the starter several times and it will make connection and start. Not actually hit the starter with a hammer but turn the key to start several times. That pin points the solenoid being the problem.

Might just unplug it?

You replaced pilot jet? Might check the new one beside the old one, verify they are the same. These mowers seem to use a lot of gas but I'm sure you know your machine.

On my K46 I had make temperature checks and never saw over 120 degrees F even on a hot summer day, no odd noises and ran quiet. But I'm still kind of shocked at the construction of this unit and seeing it on a 23 HP 600 lb mower.

Haven't noticed anything unusual here. Settings same as they ever were by default. Site is getting pretty busy though.

Well, dealer might buy 5 mowers, big box store maybe orders 20,000. Cut 5 or 10 bucks from each mower and that runs into serious money. Much like the Pioneer stereos we used to buy. The Walmart stereos would be just slightly different, no faceplate case maybe. Still a good Pioneer but not...

Getting gas draining down into the oil sump?

Does this motor actually need a battery to run once started? Going to need more info.

One thing that helps some is to take out the valve stem, get the restriction out of there.

Could be my son borrowed it? Have to go get it when you need it. Kids.......

Wattage and ohms law. Decrease voltage, increase in amps to maintain wattage, increases resistance, heats up fuse. All assuming the batteries can still produce the amperage and those could probably do that enough to blow the fuse. Or not.