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I have a friend who owns a tree service, he has a stump grinder with a Wisconsin V465D 65hp engine that needs a rebuild. That job is way over my head. Is there anyone within 200 miles or so of North Alabama that specializes in the rebuild of those engines?

My O ring issue occurred because I had overworked the transmission, had too heavy a load on the back end. Too much pressure built up. Drive belt is pretty easy, especially compared to the newer X series.

No worries, I'm still on here all the time. Yes, that did fix my issue, as I recall I did not have to open the case to get to the o rings for the bypass valve. There is another lever on the other side, the brake arm I believe, and you do have to open the case to access that O ring if it ever...

I've replaced both head gaskets, resurfaced the heads, replaced the intake gaskets and resurfaced the intake where it bolts to the heads. After sitting a day I cranked it with no smoke, no coolant being burned off as before, so I guess so far so good. I'm going to let it sit a week or two and...

Since I've now pulled the heads I think I'm past that point. I know there is a leak because I was getting coolant in the cylinders. Finding the leak is the problem.

I pulled both heads. No obvious cracks anywhere and no obvious defects in any of the head gaskets or manifold gaskets. I intended to remove the water pump but I realized it bolts in from the bottom and I would have to pull the engine off the mower and I'd really rather not do that if I don't...

I have a JD LX279 with a twin cylinder Kawi FD501V, liquid cooled. I noticed earlier this season some brief white smoke when I first started the mower. It would burn off pretty quick then run clean. I thought rings were getting bad but I did a compression and leak down test amd the numbers...

Replaced the regulator, all seems well. The red wire is still hot at the terminal even when the key is off but does not appear to be causing any battery drain and now the battery is up just over 14 vdc when running, so it's getting a charge.

Thanks Bert!!

Follow up, I unplugged the two wires from the stator to the regulator. When running the stator is hovering around 30 vac. The red wire on the regulator is hot even when the key if off, I didn't think it was supposed to be hot when the key is off.

Electrical issues are my weakness. I picked up an LX277, owner said battery was a year old but was bad. It was a 230 cca battery on a 17hp Kawi that requires 500 cca so I assumed that was the issue. I put a new battery in it. Just to be safe, I put the meter on it, 12.47 vdc on the battery...

Sorry Fish, didn't see your reply. Yes, I swapped the plugs and it was firing on the side that wasn't firing before.

New plugs and problem solved! Full disclosure, I was embarrassingly close to ordering a new PTO. I've worked on small engines for a couple of years now and it never fails that I will overlook the obvious. I get to thinking I am smarter than I am and I convince myself that "it can't be that"...

Yep, swapped the plugs and it fired on the left cylinder and not the right. Bad plug! Thanks Fish, this isn't the first time you've helped me out!

Okay, I unplugged the left spark plug and it started fine. Switched and unplugged the right and it would almost hit but not start. I've got good spark. Bad plug on the left side? I've done a leak down test. I tested at 100 psi. Left cylinder dropped to 90 psi, right cylinder dropped to 95...

I have an LX279 with 17 hp liquid cooled Kawasaki. Recently when I engage the electric pto the rpm's drop significantly, almost by half, judging by the sound. It's enough to turn the blades and cut, but barely. I ran it for 3 or 4 minutes like that and it suddenly went back up to full rpm's...

I agree, that's what I thought but how does it go from running fine to no 4th or 5th gear literally overnight?

I have that same engine on my LX279 and had the exact same issue. I tried just about everything. I had installed a bumper guard and the side plate was redirecting hot exhaust air toward the front of the engine, getting the carb too hot and causing it to vapor lock.

I replaced a carb and steering gear on my friend's LA105. Ugh, the LA models are junk! After replacing the carb, spark plug, filters, etc. I washed it and cleaned it up pretty good. I went to test drive it and the engine performed okay, it seemed to be a little rich but I'll adjust that. 1st...

I run 5w50 synthetic in my LX279. I've restored LX models exclusively for about 4 years now. I've torn down 3 of the K62 trannys. I can tell you if one or both or the piston blocks are worn it's bad news. Hard to find a used replacement block and then you have to worry about the condition...

Make sure the transmission fluid is not low. If it is low when you go up or down a steep grade it can pull air into the piston block. You could also try purging the air from the transmission in case that is the issue. Just something simple worth checking before you get too deep into it.

The pressure in the fuel system damaged the new fuel pump. I replaced the fuel pump again. With the carb clean and the fuel cap vent hole cleared the problem was solved. Always check the simplest things first. Obstructed vent hole in the fuel cap caused a lot of headaches!

The float needle was good, I blew in the intake and air flowed smooth, flipped the carb over and the needle completely stopped the air flow. When it cut off it was similar to running out of gas but choking it kept it running enough to get it to the garage.

Checking out a JD LT133 with a 13 hp Kohler CV13S. It was getting gas in the crankcase. I suspected the mechanical fuel pump. The diaphragm had a tear in it so I assumed this was the issue. I replaced the fuel pump and ran it a few minutes but it was still getting gas in the crankcase. I...

I had this happen on a 17hp Kawasaki. I added a brush guard to a JD LX279 and the side plate of the brush guard was redirecting some of the exhaust toward the carb, getting it hot and causing a vapor lock.

Replacing a fuel pump on a 13hp CV13S. Do I need the gasket and metal plate with the square hole for the arm or is the red O ring sufficient?

Swapped out the main jet, the new jet was visibly larger. Runs great now.

I'll plan to swap the main jet out tomorrow with the main jet from the original carb.

Yes, but would it not have been running very rough if it was that rich? He said it ran fine.

I assumed a larger jet would be the only reason it could be using more fuel, but would it still be running smooth getting g that much gas in it?

I have a friend who asked me to replace the carb on his pressure washer. It has a Briggs engine with carb #B1499059. I ordered an aftermarket carb at his request. It was an exact match. It does not have an air mixture screw. Put the new one on and it fired up and ran good. He sent me a...

Answered my own question... I pulled the plugs and they were both fouled. Cleaned them and it started fine. Guess it's time to address the ring issue.

I have a liquid cooled Kawi FD501V on a JD LX279. It's recently been smoking on start up but clearing up quickly. It has not been getting worse, did it the last half of the season. I ran it a week ago, same thing, not any better or worse. Oil level is good. I figured it's probably getting...

18.5 hp Kawasaki. Mower quits after 20 mins. run time. No spark either side. Bad coil or something else?

So I just finished a rebuild on a 16hp Kohler, CV460S. Everything went fine until I snapped the crankshaft bolt on the flywheel side....bad...about 3/4" deep. There is no getting the bolt out. Replacing the crank is not an option, the engine just isn't worth it. Are there any options? Could...

My brother in law sent me a picture of this at a local thrift store, they are asking $50 and claim it runs good. I think it's a Yazoo. Any interest in these old mowers?

I've refurbished quite a few JD's for resale. I've only dealt with LT, LX, GX and GT models. I have never touched an L series. I'm trying to locate a good set of used tires for an LX277. I've found an L110 for $50, the mower and deck are trash but the tires are very good. Can anyone tell me...

Is this a neutral adjustment issue? I can't find any links to this issue or how to adjust on an LX model. No videos, no info. Can anyone help?

I just comolested an engine swap on a rear engine Snapper. Went from an 8hp Tecumseh with a bad crank to a 12hp cast iron Briggs. Everything is working correctly except for the kill switch. The engine will not cut off when the key is turned to the off position There is a yellow wire that...

17hp liquid cooled twin cylinder. Runs perfect for about 20 minutes then suddenly dies and won't restart until it is cool. I have checked and both coils have good spark just after it dies. I've tried loosened the fuel cap. Newer fuel filter with no debris in it. Does not seem to be a fuel...

17hp twin cylinder liquid cooled Kawi on a JD LX279. Got it out to start the season and used it about 15 minutes and parked it and saw oil dumping from the bottom. Raised it up and removed the PTO and pulley and the bottom seal looked good but that's obviously where the oil came from. I...

I have a LX279 with a Tuff Torq K62A hydrostatic. My in laws borrowed it and were hauling some wood in a basket on the back, I think it overworked the transmission and caused oil pressure to build up. Afterwards there was a significant oil leak from the top of the transmission where the...

Looking at an Exmark walk behind with a Kawasaki engine. The guy said he left it at idle to go dump the bag. He said he heard the engine run away and then it sputtered and died and would not restart. I haven't done anything other than pull the cord to feel the compression and it felt really...

I have an LX279 with a twin cylinder water cooled 17 hp Kawi. Model FD501V. I can can cut initially for about 15 minutes and then it stalls, sounds as if it's starved for fuel. It won't restart for a few minutes. The longer you let it sit, the longer it will run before it stalls again so it...

I have a single cylinder Briggs 17.5 hp, 31C707-0154. Fuel is running into the cylinder when it sits and it will cause it to hydro lock when trying to cold start. I have rebuilt the carb. I've checked that the fuel cutoff solenoid is working properly. I replaced the main jet where the fuel...

Replacing the rings on a FD501V liquid cooled twin cylinder 17 hp Kawasaki off an LX279. Looking at the parts list on both the JD catalog and the Kawasaki catalog, both show to be using 5 rings, the oil ring with two rails, a top ring and a bottom ring. I ordered the JD ring kit, part...

I just picked up a 2000 model LX279 with a twin cylinder 17hp liquid cooled Kawasaki model FD501V. The guy selling it said it was smoking like a freight train and he "was told that the rings were burnt up". I removed the cylinder heads and the head gaskets looked rough. Both cylinders looked...

Does anyone have a good contact for Lauson parts. I'm considering restoring a 1956-58 V-25 2.5 hp. It is mounted on a Genoa Mower Co. mower. I've broken it down, the piston, cylinder and valves are in great shape. I found most of the parts I'll need for the Walbro carb and most of the other...

Can anyone identify these engines and give me any info about them? I don't have them. I have someone who has them and has asked me if I can restore them. I've never seen these engines before.

I'm working on a LX277 with a twin cylinder FH500V, 17 hp air cooled. It did not have a starter. I bought a starter and installed it and noticed the flywheel teeth were resting on the starter teeth, they couldn't disengage. This is a side mount starter, not a top mount so the there was no way...