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Don't I have to disengage that bolt #4 through which the # 3 spring is affixed? The bolt is attached to the tranny housing via a threaded nut on one end and the head of it protrudes the the deck housing in the rear.

For some reason, the image didn't appear. I have attached it here.

Well, I did it & it works fine. The GCV160 has enough power to move this heavy beast of a mower and the transmission turned out to be good. Had to sacrifice the throttle & blade stop clutch because the donor GCV160 is from a Husqvarna mower that had neither. The GCV190 crankcase that is original...

Was brought this model to work on. Need to remove or at least adjust the tranny. Never seen one like this before. As handed to me, the handle bar drive cable has no tension and thus does not tilt the tranny thereby causing the belt to tighten and spin the pulley. Wondering if maybe I could...

Have a rotary style carb on a RedMax backpack EBZ7500. I cleaned the carb thoroughly (ultra sonic) and added new kit diaphragms & gaskets. Can't get it to start when cold after purging (working fine) on choke or any other position. But if pull the cord after I add a squirt of fuel down the plug...

Haven't sprayed yet but I did take off the air box cover so I could temporarily block off the intake of air through the carb. Saw a video where a mower continued to run after so doing (meaning that enough air was getting in elsewhere) thus indicating and later revealing a cracked intake tube...

Thanks. Maybe you missed it in my original post, "I even opened the bowl nut jet on one of the carbs with micro drill bits increasing the opening incrementally 3 sizes up from OEM." That is, I inserted bits until I found the 1st one that would not go vertically through the OEM bowl nut jet hole...

Thanks, will try that in the am. But again, I must ask, if in fact there is too much air getting in from the tube or elsewhere, why would the engine run great under load (blade engaged) but only surge under no load?

Your advice is most welcome. I think you must mean passages clogged to some extent. Perhaps, but I tried 2 other used carbs pulled from working, non-surging engines plus a new carb and the problem persists. The only passages I know of are the two pictured below plus the bowl nut passages which...

Quantum Model 120000 675 Series. Just one gov spring. Will check the intake tube. But if in fact there is too much air getting in from the tube or elsewhere, why would the engine run great under load (blade engaged) but only surge under no load?

Neighbor brought a Toro Personal Pace (Briggs 7.0 Quantum) with the blade clutch feature. When it starts with the blade not yet engaged, it surges wildly. But when the bail is pulled thus engaging the blade, it runs great (3200 RPM). Tried several known good & clean (one brand new) carbs & still...

I have had an HRX217HMA for some time now & it is old (2005) but runs great. Recently picked up an HRX217K5HYAA which I believe is from 2017 or 2018. Both have the Roto-Stop clutch. While working on them, I was surprised to see that the older HMA has an fairly lightweight aluminum flywheel/fan...

Agree with Bert; check the valve lash. Here is a video but there are many others on YouTube.

Yes, that's a good thought. But I checked that, too. Torqued to spec, couldn't budge them any tighter. It's a mystery.

Yes, that's a good thought. But I checked that, too. Torqued to spec, couldn't budge them any tighter. It's a mystery.

Just recently, the GCV160 on my mower started making clanking sounds, like 5 or 6 "clanks", when it powers down. When it is running at around 3100 RPM, it sounds fine. Took shroud off and spun the engine with a drill .. sounded fine, no clanking. So, when doing that, nothing is interfering with...

Have an older pressure washer with a Briggs Quantum. Since it is a 2001 model, the label still rates it in HP; ie, 6.0 in this case. There are calculators online that purport to convert torque to HP & vice versa. I have used them for that conversion in the past & come up with torque to HP on a...

Yes, I did this 2 years ago so I am on my 3rd mowing season. Acquired an good deck, good transmission (important!) HRX that threw a rod & busted the top end but everything else in the engine looked fine even, surprisingly, the crank. The 190 was off a unneeded PW that I had lying around. So, in...

Looks like you have the right part. But here is another option that worked better for me than the thermal wax on an HRX217. Might not work for your model though. https://www.lawnmowerforum.com/threads/convert-hrx217-autochoke-to-manual.65184/

I had that problem once. I learned that the entire mower (or engine if it is off the mower) must be lifted & tilted backwards at such an angle such that no residual oil can gravity seep down to the valve cover mating surface while the gasket maker is curing. Oil compromises the sealing...

Thanks.That's it alright.The engine turns at full rpm even though the blade has stopped turning. Similar to a pressure washer where the pump exerts nowhere near the rotational force of a lawn mower blade.

Have a Blade Brake Toro Personal Pace with a piston & cylinder scored Briggs 6.75 Quantum. My thought is to replace that engine with an older rebuilt 6.75 off a Troybilt with a rotted deck. In order to retain the blade brake feature, I have swapped the crankshaft from the Troy to the Toro...

Thanks. I usually empty the tank before tilting the mower for jobs that are going to take more than a few minutes. My experience, when I have mistakenly tilted muffler up, is with oil, not gas. That is, soaked air filter and lots of smoke when I get it running. This has happened on not only...

The title says it.; I realize this is a no-no. But sometimes it would be useful to tilt a mower on either side depending on what one is trying to fix. From what I have read, the problem is that oil flows from the breather hose into the airbox and even into the combustion chamber if tilted...

Friend brought me a 2020 Craftsman pressure washer with a Briggs Horizontal OHV 950 series engine. Extremely hard to pull over but not seized. Checked & double checked the usual suspects, keyway, valve clearances, recoil etc. Seem fine.Even removed the crankcase bottom to see if the timing was...

Are you seeking # 5 below? If so, here is where I found it & it is available. Inexplicably, it lists 2 widely different prices based on serial #'s. Guess you'd have to call to sort that out. https://www.boats.net/catalog/honda/lawn-mowers/hrr216k9-vlaa-vin-mzcg-8670001/battery-main-harness

You are right; that OEM charger is really pricey. Here's a couple of ideas: I have an older HRX217. I got it used for free but with no charger. I was able to look online at the specs on an OEM charger. Then I searched for identical specs in a box I kept of old telephone chargers. I found one...

Recently bought a replacement carb for my 6.75 Quantum on a Toro. It has the auto choke feature which is working as it should. But I noticed that it takes more pulls to get the engine started. Then I noticed that the choke plate is, for lack of a better term, partial (on left). Other Quantum...

I have 3 HRX217's; they all do the following. Even with the clip director set on full mulch, some clippings sneak into the chute. With no bag, some of the chute grass simply exits out to the mowed area and I haven't noticed any clumping. However, when I come up to my walkway, I see an good bit...

my bad. Here it is: https://www.lawnmowerforum.com/threads/convert-hrx217-autochoke-to-manual.65184/

Oops. forgot the link. https://www.lawnmowerforum.com/threads/gcv160-autochoke-keeps-failing.68886/

Here's what I did with a ornery thermowax issue. My mower is an HRX217 so I don't know if my solution will work for you. I was unable to locate your model but I did find an HRR216K8 (no "8" after the 216) and the parts on that model are the same or very similar to my mower. Essentially, my mod...

Got a used HRX217HMA a few years ago & got it working great. However, the battery was dead but It is a one pull starter so I didn't bother replacing it for over $100. Lately though, just because I think it would be a fun experiment, I began thinking about a replacement mod. I found the 12V...

Hey Mark, the battery in the video is different from the one you linked (the box is also different & maybe the harness). Don't know which one the OP owns. My older HRX217HMA uses the one Dony installs & is as much as $160 at some sites. The one you link is for certain K6 models which are newer...

Yeah, I've wondered about those "partial" looking butterfly's too. But in most cases, they seem to do the job even though they don't choke off the intake completely. I bet BertsMobile1 knows why Honda chose this bit of engineering. Anyway, I don't see where changing to a larger butterfly can...

First, your mower ought to be under warranty so your best bet may be to take it in. But the link below is what worked for me on an out of warranty HRX217 and I send it along because you have some experience with, and liked, a manual choke...

Never heard of a clogged fuel line. Unlikely since there is a screen in the tank that would prevent any but microscopic debris to pass through. Even if some debris did slip through, it might clog the carb jets but then the engine probably wouldn't even start & run. Again, check for spark if you...

Agree with Bert. But you could check for spark just to satisfy your curiosity. Dozens of YouTube videos on that procedure. Although fairly rare, I have seen coils that were either dead, intermittent (fine when engine is cold; failed when hot), or too weak to push a spark down to the plug electrode.

Back in the day (80's or so), Craftsman sometimes sold push mowers with Tecumseh engines on which the engine faced towards the operator, like below. Anyone know why this was done? By doing so, the spark plug is inaccessible with a socket for one thing. I believe that the blade would still spin...

Just thought I'd update since I started this thread almost 2 years ago. I have used a gasket vs. silicon on three GCV190's or 160's since then and none are leaking. The valve covers on them were in pretty good shape (not badly bent) so that's probably a big reason that it has worked for me.

Here is how I converted autochoke to manual rather easily. https://www.lawnmowerforum.com/threads/convert-hrx217-autochoke-to-manual.65184/

Thanks.The diagram you sent does not have the middle large barrel-headed screw or whatever it is (red dots). I'm trying to see if any one knows why that piece is there and, moreover, if it is actually a LO adjustment on the rightmost carb (K78 aftermarket) because that middle piece has a slot...

C1U-K42 or C1U-K78. I have seen either of these on this style blower ... the older gray Echo's.

Have an older blower, PB2100. May need a new carb. Searching online I see 3 choices. It appears that Zama OEM has a Hi & Lo adjustment screw but two aftermarket units may not have the Lo screw. The one on the right has a slot for a screwdriver but the middle one does not. That middle...

Got my first (used) mower with the autochoke, a "feature" that many folks dislike. I, too, had problems with it's operation even though the thermowax part seemed to be working properly. I decided to see if I could simply convert it to manual since I have a bunch of Honda carb parts that I saved...

Many Honda owners with Roto Stop, HRX217 notably, complain about the blade clutch not staying engaged while mowing. I have not had this issue with 2 previous 217's but recently acquired another 217 where the slightest release of the blade clutch bail (#12) (maybe an inch or two) caused the...

Yup, you got the # right. Try this Honda "Contact Us" link. https://crrs.secure.force.com/service/pew2c I recall that I used this link several years ago to find out the age of a used mower I acquired. Someone got right back to me.

Double check that model #. This site is about as extensive as I have seen & there is no HRX2172HXA listed. Honda #'s are mindbogglingly confusing. https://www.boats.net/catalog/honda/lawn-mower

Thanks for the reply. Trying to learn as I fix things. The OEM carb on this mower is clean; all jets open. The engine doesn't surge at any setting across the range of the throttle positions. So, I'm curious, why would a new carb cure the rpm drop issue when the Roto Stop is engaged?