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Hi All, got the Craftsman DYT4000 with a hydro trans. It won't push manually in reverse and very hard in forward. I pulled the brake outside caliper off, cleaned all the parts and reassembled. Removed any grass from the trans and brake area. Brake disk is loose with pedal up and turns with...

Got to the top of the trans and cleaned it off. Seems to be a bind when moving for to rev in the mechanism. It does not have the debris upgrade. Next is to pull the vari-pulley and see what's under it. Main belt is worn but not cracked. Don't know if that would cause the pedals not to go down.

Thanks again, I'm gonna try and get to the top and pull the linkage off to see if the trans shifts or binds. I researched and came up with a few part numbers, but did not check for availability. I don't think I'll open it.

Thanks ST, I got the trans info from the parts manual. The second belt made me think of a CVT, but the engage\disengage arm threw me. The CVT's I'm used to seeing have direction selectors. Should I consider this junk or a winter project?

The problem starts after moving forward first. Then the revere pedal won't go down. When it does, it goes low enough to catch under the foot rest. I can fix that by bending it to the left a bit. The binding seems to be on the top of the trans.

Hi Tiger. I have the belt off the motor as I am replacing the ACR. All pulley, except the trans (can't see yet) are in fine shape, belt too, but I will replace it. Machine is clean all the way back. The linkage arms all are good, no binds. Connection to the foot pedals was wobbly, so I...

Been a while since I've asked for help. That's a good thing. I have an Ariens 19hp, 42", model 936083, prod=960460061, ser 041615A33927. It's a hydro axle that I have never seen before. All plastic (2002 vintage) with 2 drive belts. Hydro Gear T2-AABC-1X2B-1GX1. Lots of miles, but moves...

Remove the gas line from the carb and put it in a container to catch the gas. If you can, remove the pickup from the tank, or disconnect the line at the top of the tank. Fill a small bottle 1\2 full of gas and submerse the line in it. Crank the engine and compare the output of the pump to...

I've seen a broken spindle, or bent deck, cause the blade tips to collide and make a banging noise. Check the tip of the blades compared to each other. All should be level and at same height. One may be bent. Compare the heights and levelness of the spindle pulleys.

No where have I read that you have gotten spark, unless I missed it. If no spark THRU the spark plug, then disconnect the kill wire and see if it returns. If so, you have a switch\wiring issue. If not, replace coil. I'd replace the plug too.

I agree with gearhead. I have two steering wheel zt machines and they perform much better on the slopes. No dog-tracking and the front end stays on the ground. My slope is so much, I have to mow up and down. I got rid of my Deere 318 after falling off it twice. If you can find a used Cub...

Before running again, check the oil. If over full, or not, there may be fuel in it. If so, drain, replace filter and oil. Remove plug and spin the engine. Plug may be wet and need to be replaced.

Ignore my last post, didn't see one about loose trans. Many trans are mounted with the 4 bolts at the axle and 2-4 thru mounting brackets to the front and sides of the trans. They all must be there and tight.

Belt should only be loose when brake on. Check for something dragging the belt. Check that the pulleys are not bent and are level with each other. On remaining pulleys, feel inside for and ridges or rough spots.

In my case, I have seen a valve seat being raised and most recently, a rocker arm cracked and not raising correctly.

I have had carbs that will still leak after needle and seat cleaned or needle replaced. If this happens, I would order this HIPA carb...

The engine numbers are stamped in the top of the valve cover. Looking at the pic of the starter side of the engine, the starter gear looks to be meshed with the flywheel gear. That should not be the case. The starter gear should be in a lowered position and will jump up when the starter...

For the smaller tires, if new, I bring the wife's oven to 200 degs and shut it off. Put tires in there and they soften enough to pop on. St use strap with a large screwdriver to tighten. Trial and error.

Taryl Fixes All has a good video on these valves. He indicates that if there is a arrow indicating flow on them (going from failing memory), they are junk. Good ones are not directional, don't restrict flow and don't leak. He provides a manufacture name.

All fuel suggestions don't seem to apply as he said starting fluid did not help. I have cured many hard starting with a new set of good branded spark plugs.

Put your meter on 200 ohms. Unplug both of the small connections. Put one meter lead on each solenoid small connections and read the output. Should be a low value, but not zero.

I would follow sgkent's suggestions, but first you can test the solenoid. Remove the two small wires from the solenoid. Connect a jumper wire from the green one to a good ground point. Momentarily, jump across the large battery connection, of the solenoid, to the other small connection. The...

Until I replaced my cam\ACR, I would turn the engine by hand until just passed the compression then the starter would get over the hump. 230 CCA battery.

Couple things, OEM seals Check tech manual as to which way the seal is orientated (spring up, or down). They are not always the same. With seal removed, check the sump and see if there is a small hole, in the seal's cavity, which supplies oil to the seal. If so, the seal cannot be inserted...

I, personally, would see if I could find a repair center that would install a used\rebuilt engine approx. the same size and offer, at least, a 30 day warranty on the engine. Much cheaper than a new engine. I have done this for my customers a few times, when I have an engine to install...

What a bunch of stuff you may never use. 6 batteries? It indicates you can cut 2 acres with the two batteries. Hope it never fails. All that electronics may lead to a hard time finding a qualified repair center. I'm having similar back issues and my yard is rough too. I'm thinking about...

As far as oil leak, where on the engine is it? Front, could be valve cover gasket. By oil fill tube, or filter? Along sides, or back could be sump gasket. Draining on drive pully, bottom crank seal.

I've seen 2 temp fixes. One, as ILENGINE says, to pop it back in and peen around the edges. I've also seen where people have drilled a hole in the tie rod and insert a bolt thru it and the steering plate or axel. Leave the bolt a little loose and Loctite it. The tie rods are not that...

If you install a shut off valve, make sure it's a quality one. These little black and red ones are divided. Ones with a flow indicator molded into it are junk. Good ones do not care which direction they are installed. You can see this if you take a directional one and connect it to the gas...

Taryl gives ideas....https://www.lawnmowerforum.com/threads/stuck-tire.80470/?utm_source=email&utm_campaign=trending

One thing not mentioned was bent blades. Check the tips meet.

When I dd my 1st and last leak-down test, I brought the piston to TDC. When pressure was applied, it would rotate the engine either CW or CCW, never knew which. I could not stop it from rotating even with a pipe wrench on the lower pulley\shaft. What's the trick?

Watch Taryl's video from the 19 min point.

Remove the two unlevel pulleys and inspect their brackets. It appears the right bracket has a bend in the top.

Once you have the wiring diagram, remove the key switch and measure the continuity across all connections. Verify that there are no shorts across terminals that should not be connected in all key positions. When connections should be shorted, they should be a solid connection and not varing.

I see so many XT1's for sale with bown engines. I don't know if the XT2's have the same issues. If I had to replace my machine I would go used, hopefully, from a dealer and with the best engine. Older if to meet a budget.

I have heard where people will send a small diameter magnet down the oil fill tube to see if they come up with metal pieces or shreds to possibly determine if ACR flew apart. I just did that job for the first time and it was kinda enjoyable as I didn't need the machine right away. Just over...

Anyone that has ever drained oil thru one of those valves has probably swore at it loudly. Bad design. If it's not leaking now, wait till your next oil change and replace it. A short pipe nipple (3/8" pipe if I remember correctly), a 90 degree elbow and a screw in plug into the elbow works...

One thing about this original post and the engine starting 1st try, I have three ZT all with different twin cylinder engines. Many times for a 1st start, it will just click the starter and not rotate, after the engine starts, every try is fine. I have 275 CCA batteries on all and they sit a...

It's been my understanding that the blades should be started and run at near to full throttle. This is also for the fans to cool the engine and trans'. Bars or foot pedals for speed control. Correct me if I'm wrong.

I have been using syntenic oil and the 3614 pn filters for years without an issue.

Belt tensioning on electric PTO mowers are usually spring loaded idler wheels with no adjustment. Manual PTO models the belts are loose until engaged and a spring loaded idler is brought into place, again, no adjustment. If belt is good, I would check\replace the idler spring. Also verify all...

Good job, lol

I agree with Jes, it saves a lot of time and trouble, but still not that easy. I enlist the help of my wife to get the second bead on. She loves it. Last tires I ordered came in a box about 3" tall and they were smashed flat in the plastic. I ended up putting them in a WARM oven to soften...

Good luck to anyone making sense out of his posts. I sure didn't. Like listening to my 1 yr old grand daughter talk.

I use good-ole axel grease. These are not high speed parts. If the blade\spindle shaft is not turning freely or smoothly, the spindle bearings can be replaced without removing the spindle. Much less costly and most time the spindle bolts break meaning you have to replace the whole assembly...

Most of the time for tight steering, it's been in the axels. I pull them out, clean and lube them, replace any axel and wheel bushings\bearings. The steering column bushings usually cause steering wheel wobble. If I replace those, I clean the shaft and lightly lube it. Keep tire pressure...

Check to see if power is still at the clutch connector when PTO switch is turned off. Will isolate switch or clutch.

Anti-fire solenoid? I know you rebuilt carb, but was the solenoid replaced? Run with spark testers on it. Run with kill wire TEMPORARLY disconnected to verify safety switches.

This type of PTO design has the belt loosening when the PTO arm is off and being drwn tight by the spring on the end of the cable. If the belt loosens too much, it will bounce when the PTO is released and try and jump off a pulley. This is why it is very important to have the belt keeps in...