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I rebuilt the carb and there was no jet. I properly installed a new one with new o-ring. It runs great for about 15 mins. I'm gonna pull the carb off and check it again.

Choke is good, Thanks

These parts seem to be for many Hydro-Gear models. Someone on this forum was nice enough to give me the part numbers. My trans is a T2-AABC-1X1A-1GXX. I found that in the parts diagram of my Craftsman model.

Did you find the clip? Here are the parts I used: https://www.ebay.com/itm/174037472409 https://www.ebay.com/itm/282364111769

Before dumping lots of parts, try spraying carb or brake cleaner into the carb when hot and see if it wants to start. If so, and you have eliminated a fuel issue, then it's probably carb related. If not, then I would think spark related. If you have not actually replaced the spark plug, then...

I just went thru the identical same thing. There is a small spring clip that comes off inside the trans. I bought the clip and the axel seal fore under $10, a gallon of 20w50 sys oil and a tube of oil resistant RTV. Under$35 total. Trans came rite out, just shoot pics of the linkage bar...

Didn't answer if you had spark when hot.

The replacement used carb ran good under load. I pulled the original Nikki carb apart and it shows signs of needing new rubber gaskets. What I was surprised to see is no jet in the center plastic tube. I'm used to seeing jets with bad O Rings. Is there suppose to be one? What would be the...

Pulled the fuel tank and replaced everything to the carb. Pulled and cleaned carb. Coil has dragged the flywheel. Replaced the coil and set gap at 0.010". Set intake valve at 0.004" and Exhaust at 0.005" 1\4" past TDC. It was oil by the spark plug from the valve cover. Oil is good and no...

Hi All, what would be the symptom of a bad breather valve on a Briggs Single Cyl 14-20hp size? I have a a 17hp 31C707 0230 that runs great until a drag is put onit either PTO or trans. Then it bogs down and pushes black smoke as if it running very rich. I can get it to recover by lowering...

Would need machine brand and model number. Size deck also.

Install new belt making sure of the routing and that the belt is between the pulleys and the keepers. Make sure you're under the trans cooling fan and around the pulley. With the rear wheels on jack stands, brake on and in Neutral, start the engine and put 1\2 throttle. Chuck the front...

To troubleshoot it, there should be 12v on one side of the meter , at least, anytime the key is in the on position. Other side to ground. It they are two separate leads, they may have gotten installed reversed. You could remove the meter and using small jumper wires, connect it to any 12v...

Remove the starter and bench test it. When jumping a battery to it in the mower, it has to do something, unless the gear is jammed. Can the flywheel be turned easily by hand, without the plug>

I didn't notice you saying you had spark. Remove the plug, hold it against the engine body with gloves or plyers and crank the engine. You should have a bright spark. Reinstall the plug, shoot some carb or break cleaner, or a shot of gas into the carb with the choke open. Turn the key and...

Leave the connector unplugged, pinch the fuel line just before the carb, using a thin 1\2" open end wrench, remove the solenoid. Gas will spill from the carb bowl. Catch it. If possible, leave the carb bowl in place. On the end of the solenoid is a little plunger. Many have rubber tips...

Meet the manufacture's oil specs and anything else may be wasted money. People think the more clear the oil, the better. Not true. Many costly additives go into making it clear. I run any full synthetic oil that meets the engines specs. Synthetic oil withstands much higher temperatures...

If you have not done so, remove the engine cover and you'll probably see the wires go across the top of the engine. Examine them and clean the engine while you're at this point. On some Briggs, the two wires go behind the starter and can get pinched there. An easy fix.

Here, in the US, you can free rent these at most auto parts chains.

I think these guys' wives kicked them out of bed. Sure we need more info, but to rag on someone new to the forum is not necessary. Vacation time anyone? Be nice, or be gone.

Hey OldDiyer, do those come with a YouTube instruction video?

One thing I noticed, on the second pic, the belt going around the lowest pulley on the left is not under the keeper. If the original belt is not routed correctly and under the keepers, it will pop off or break.

One thing I noticed, on the second pic, the belt going around the lowest pulley on the left is not under the keeper. If the original belt is not routed correctly and under the keepers, it will pop off

Old timer's trick, Use a straw with something sticky on the end of it (bubble gum) and carefully slide it down and push it onto the dip stick. If it's dry enough on the end, it will grab it.

I think the Briggs single cylinder engines have two different starters. The gears have different amount of teeth. 14 and 16, if I remember correctly. They have to match the flywheel gear which can be aluminum or steel. Wrong gear and you'll tear it up.

I am under the understanding that the blades do not get sharpened razer sharp. Even new blades are a little on the dull side?

Considering it ran before the brake adjustment, loosen it and see if you get back to where you started. Then look at the drive belts for cracking of burned areas. With the brake on, you should be able to turn the idler pulleys (depends on model).

On many mowers that have a 4 prong flat connector, there is a shorting tab in the mowers end connector. You'll see little tabs if you look at it from the open side of the connector. If you put an ohmmeter from pi to pin, they'll all measure 0. It's been a while and I don't remember wither you...

Hey Biggs, JD along with others, don't manufacture their own parts. They have suppliers for that. One unit I had, I just shimmed between the shoulder bolt and the sector gear to get a nice spacing. Use thinner washers so it can be put to where you like it. Also, it there a guide bushing 1\2...

Last one I had like that, I did like Hammermech. I oiled it for two days tapping on the hub each time. Then I used an air hammer putting a blunt tip on the rear at the joint of the hub tube and the hub. Spinning every min or so. When that didn't work, I heated the hub tube, which darkened...

Still check the tank

You may be able to get that at any auto parts store.

Check this out:

To align the steering straight. Remove the pinion gear from the bottom of the steering shaft, mark the ceter tooth of the large gear , place the steering wheel straight and while keeping this all in position put the pinion gear back on.

Couple things, You may have a bad battery, solenoid, starter or locked engine. You indicated 127mv at the starter lead of the solenoid when the key is turned. This should be 12v as the solenoid passes the 12 from the battery connection to the starter. If the solenoid is clicking and the...

Every pulley should turn very easily without and noise. They will heat up due to friction and tighten up. All arms and brackets should rotate freely. Use penitrating oil and force to free them, then lube with a good oil. If the PTO clutch clicks, then I would think it's working, but there is...

Clean the flywheel and mag\coil with emery paper and size gap to 0.010" (business card). Load from deck could be pulleys\spindle bearings. Check main drive belt routing and idlers.

If this is a hydro trans, there is a little arm\shaft on the panel between the two rear wheels that allows the mower to be manually be pushed. It must be pushed in for the mower to drive.

Jump 12v to the small connection of the starter solenoid and see what response you get. Nothing, probably a bad solenoid or ground on it. Clicks and rotates starter, then you're back to checking safety's and wiring.

Hey Cuckochris, you mentioned red Briggs fuel filter. Is it required on a Briggs or can paper filters be used, I do think the paper filters are finer micron in size.

I have heard this is common on the Husqvarna mowers

I have a similar problem, runs for a short time and dies, can't get restarted unless gas sprayed in carb throat. I did the things you did. I got an idea and took another gas tank and a length of new clear line and connected it to the carb. No shut off and no filter. Machine runs great. I...

I have the Kobalt electric and love it. Not good for2 acres, but it would be with additional batteries. Best thing for people that can't pull the cord. No gas, oil and routine maintenance except for keeping it clean (don't clean underside with water) and batteries charged.

Gas cap 1st

Plug it and drill a tiny hole in the gas cap if you don't want to spend the money on a vented cap.

Even at 12.4v, the head lights should work, unless this is a unit that runs off alt and engine must be running. Sounds as if no 12v to the ign switch.

Another trick is to lightly coat the area with flour. It is magnify the leak spot.

Penny saved is a penny earned, especially if machine is at a shop.

Time to clean that work area, Dude. Safety first.