Search results

I can’t wait to read the resolution on this one?

Waiting to read the results of the testing and hopefully a solution to the problem? Many times there is unfortunately NEVER a post of the resolution

I’ve found many aftermarket Briggs carburetors often surge and need the main jet opened up a bit. I have a jewelry drill bit set and welding tip cleaners. On size up on the drill bit at a time. These bits are super tiny. I believe you have the governor linkage setup wrong unless you installed...

Used is eBay

I’m familiar with that engine. Here is what I would do. 1. Remove spark plug ( leave it out) and try to start the engine. Does it spin over? Did oil and fuel shoot out from the spark plug hole? 2. If it doesn’t spin over you have electrical or starter issues 3. If it does spin over then...

Is this a Briggs engine? Model Type Date code please?

Did you take a picture of the linkage before you replaced the old carburetor?

It’s a fair question

You need something to create tension to hold full throttle. I’ve seen some interesting things in my life like bailing wire to hold the throttle wide open. I would not remove springs. Odds are it’s the Governor springs.

1. I thought you had a leaking carburetor and the cylinder was hydro locked. If you had pulled the spark plug when it was locked you would have had oil and gas coming out and the oil level would be very high. 2. This is a 20 year old mower and is it likely the key switch has a defect...

I believe I hade a 17.5 Enduro, but it was a Tecumseh engine? What engine do you have?

If it ain’t broke, I don’t fix it. You probably got lucky and if no leaks then keep on going with regular oil changes and clean air filter.

Did it originally have a 3 bolt or 4 bolt carburetor? Where did you purchase the 3 bolt carburetor? Is it one made in China? OEM used? Once you respond, I can offer guidance Thanks, Drew

I checked eBay and did not see that current part number listed now. You may have to go with a replacement carburetor to get this up an running?

I’m thinking you have the carburetor linkage setup incorrectly. Possibly an air leak?

The brake parts cleaner doesn’t cause seals to swell like choke and carb cleaner. The compressed air may help to remove the dirt. Light drop or two of sewing machine or gun oil can help. Unfortunately it too will attract dirt and dust. I’ve seen some individuals use a graphite power. I...

Have you tried cleaning it with brake cleaner and compressed air? Then adding some type of lubricant? I’d guess there is a bit of dirt/dry that is stopping the movement?

I see lots of this part number on eBay from $8-10 delivered. Best of luck and please keep the oil changed and a clean air filter. That’s a great engine!

I believe this is what you need?

Well it looks like we need the date code for the 125K02 Briggs engine?

How about bugs and bug parts in the fuel tank? I’ve seen it where containers of gasoline had bugs go down the spout to their death. How about dirt dobbers? I’m thinking it’s slow filling from tank

I’d just get a can of stater fluid. Hit it with a shot of starter fluid and call it a day. I think you have a Honda GCV 160? It can be tricky with the choke options

I think you have a cam issue. What made you replace it?

Wise to remove the engine to find the source of the oil leak

I’d guess it’s coming from the crankcase? Have you changed the oil recently? When you check it before startup, is it high on the dipstick? I’d venture it’s a leaking carburetor allowing fuel into the crack case. The smoke is the thinned out oil with lots of fuel contamination.

Definitely can be leaking by the cover. I think you’re getting closer to the issue.

Sounds like a fuel line issue or possibly the impulse

The solenoid has a plunger that goes inside the solenoid body when you have voltage. It’s an electro magnet. When no voltage or off it extends out to close off the fuel to the carburetor to hopefully stop a backfire. I have had to “clip” the plunger in an emergency to finish cutting grass at...

I need more information. 1. Do you want to bag your clippings? 2. Do you have any gates? If so, what is the opening size? 3. Do you have a place to store it? Size?

I will look end of next week and others are correct you can order just the spring for Honda’s off Amazon that are very similar and I believe can be modified to work. I saw these when I searched for your part number and description online. If I have your part number, I’ll post photos and mark...

I’m 99 percent sure I have your spring. I have a Murray parts mower and I think it’s a Briggs 8hp It’s possible it’s a Briggs 12 hp? I recall getting this spring and it didn’t “fix” my problem. The problem was it needed new rings as low compression and burning oil. The mower is at my farm...

Section 4

No problem

And sometimes no matter how hard you clean/polish it still squeals. I think you covered it all. Polish the shaft. Clean inside the starter clutch with emery paper and a shotgun cleaning rod using a drill. Drop of oil on the felt and of course clean those dirty balls LOL I’ve had one or two...

I’m in agreement. It sounds like the coil is heating up after a period of time and you have no spark. Is this correct? Are you okay with ordering a new coil and setting the proper gap to the flywheel ?

You are correct. The Honda, Briggs, Kohler etc are so cheap….even OEM. It is often cheaper just to replace the carburetor instead of spending, sometimes hours, working on it. What’s your time worth. I spend the $12-14 for the high quality fuel cut offs. Just must force myself to...

I alway use cheap Walmart starter fluid IN the carburetor first. 90 percent of the time the engine will fire. So many fuel related issues that can be avoided by draining the bowl and possibly empty tank. On push mowers I’ve dumped out the fuel and then put a paper town in the tank to wick out...

You are right

Those are the ones I switched to also. Quality!

So going forward I suggest you install a fuel shutoff in your gas line. It’s a few $ of prevention. I always shutoff the fuel cut off and run the engine dry. Don’t forget to turn the key off, if you forget, you will probably have a dead battery next time you need it……..don’t ask how I...

Congratulations on getting it out!!! I’d recommend you order a new original starter bolt. When you install it, I’m certain you’ll get right I think you got very lucky it came out with a screw driver.

Did a screw get in the cylinder? I think I see the impression of something?

Winner! That’s what I was thinking. He needs a good battery

How are you testing the DC voltage output? Have you tried a new battery? What is happening with a fully charged battery overnight and the engine is running? You have the magnets, you checked the stator, you checked your cables/ground and you checked your voltage regulator?

Time to find the leak. Your flywheel key looks good to me.

Few ideas: 1. Is the flywheel key sheared? 2. Carburetor mounted correctly and no air leaks? 3. Trash in the fuel system? Usually a back fire is the timing is off. Is it possible the flywheel key is damaged? Even a broken clock is right twice a day. It worked and then it didn’t

It’s probably a fuel/carb issue. Could it be gaskets? Could it be the jet has trash from the dirty fuel tank? Could it be the fuel pump? Usually surging or hunting is jets/fuel. I had one where it was the float bowl pin sticking occasionally. That was the toughest. Tiny bad spot on the pin...

We can try this old school. Put thumb over spark plug hole and have someone crank the engine. Note: watch out for that spark plug wire and boot! Did it blow your thumb off?

Congratulations!!!! Thanks for posting your solution

What is the compression on this engine? I’ve been reading you are working a probable fuel issue. I read you checked the valve clearance but I did not see that you used a compression gauge to verify the compression. This is one of my first steps. Basics are spark at the correct time...