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So you don't see any corrosion at all? No suspect connections? Maybe it's my poor vision? I see the case is gone. If he has one bad connection probably more to follow.

Stunned it worked this long but I got my answer. It's a Snapper. (y)

OMG buddy. That is one corroded mower. Guess you live right on the ocean maybe? You might remove every wire and connector and clean/polish/renew each connection. No wonder it won't do anything for you. Add some dielectric grease after you clean each connection.

Take a picture of the engine and valve cover all around it. Anything that looks like a serial number. Post it here. Probably have to clean the engine first so you can see some metal and numbers. Clean the cooling fins while you are at it.

Super lean in my book. Main jet wants more fuel. Classic lack of proper air/fuel mix. Wait carb AND muffler? At the same time? Check flywheel key.

No to pulling check valves. Just a gentle micro blast of shop air. Nervous doing that.

Because I own my equipment not just work on them like you shop guys. I pull all rubber/plastic parts and inspect. Carb bowl gaskets usually get tossed.

As you already know, stay away from E-10 if at all possible. Less HP and MPG's are widely known. Wonder how much HP loss is in say a 5HP Briggs on E-10? Small engines like these have to be effected more than the next sentence below. I know there is a 2-3 MPG loss in a 2016 Suburban 5.3 V-8 on...

Guys, all mower tires need to go to a real tire shop. Sorry but some of them are a huge pain in the rump. Shops only charge a couple bucks for those small tires anyway. I don't even mess with them anymore. Got better things to do like slugging down some adult beverages on a hot summer day.

If you can install one side of the rim, put a large screwdriver or tire iron in there again as to hold that one side ON the rim. Then fight with the other bead.

Recommend getting a couple extra cans on facetrash marketplace. Make the drive if you are in the area where you can buy non Ethanol fuel. Put some old school formula Sta-Bil in every can.

Fuel hoses turn hard as a carp and are/can be VERY tough to remove. I think someone recommended cutting the hose off which is what it takes most of the time. If it's tough to remove, replace it. Keep a couple feet of new fuel line in your tool box.

Always pull any rubber or silicone parts prior to any ultra-sonic or boiling cleanings. Most of the time they need replaced anyway.

Just wait till you have to drill a grade 8 out. Will be passing up those in a hurry looking for grade 5. Torque spec on grade 5 dry is 112 ft lbs. Pretty gundy for a blade bolt. If you are breaking those, something else is wrong.

Do you use E-10 gas?

My opinion, me only, I would keep the Toro. Honda makes good engines no doubt. This is where they fail. They don't side sling. Push mowers have side slung since they came out. I LOVE mowing a tall patch watching the cuttings fly. So great engines and fair only mowers.

No You need to replace the fuel line from tank to carb inlet. Why? Fuel hoses deteriorate from the inside out. You can't see internal damage but maybe on the end.

Measure the filter or carb inlet tube with a caliper. Not at the swedged out part but the smaller main shaft OD. THAT is your hose size. I too don't like stretching hoses on.

CLEAN the cooling fins while you are there. All around the block and head/s. Best to check spark at night or low light condition. Kill the garage lights for example. YES fuel delivery issue. Dirty tank, hose, filter, shut off, tank cap vent, carb, open spout fuel can and so on. Find out...

Red and orange rust are not magnetic. Also won't hurt a thing sanding/polishing it off the magnets. What is helpful is polishing the coil mounting pads, coil where the screws contact and the screw heads and threads. Coil needs a clean ground path to work. Over time the rust in those areas...

Just cut it down and replace the line. Probably needs it anyway. As Taryl says, it's hard as a carp.

I agree with the others. Some flavor of Diesel oil that YOUR engine manual states.

Clean as in CLEAN, good man.

That is a short coil wire. Wonder if it is the correct part? Or someone shortened it looking to renew the connection? Looks suspect. How about pictures as in plural of the entire carb linkage, carb and so on? Is the valve cover leaking like it is? Maybe someone just checked the valves and...

Just like driving in front of a gas station smelling all the vapors.

There is it..... My man....... Good on you to fess up on it. I like you even MORE now. Enjoy the day.

So you admit it was a 5 minute job LOL. :D (y) (y) Joking of course. I bet you spent more time, fussing with that cured RTV, cleaning parts and mess, than would of taken to pull the engine. Just saying there are better sealants that don't cure hard like RTV one could use. I don't have a...

We were talking about testing pressure. Not gravity fed fuel tank pressures. If you test yours at 1psi good for you. I'll continue testing at 7psi.

Your engine, do as you wish. I would say wrong. Yeah, not buying it. One person could have that entire engine off the mower in under an hour with common hand tools. What 4 bolts, couple belts maybe one or two harnesses and a choke/throttle cable? What did I miss?

Dad bought a new 1968 Ford F150 or was it an F100 off the dealer floor? Any-who, had the 360 v-8. He ran Quacker State 10W-40 year round. Changed it twice a year regardless of mileage. Year 2006 rolls around. I swear, on oil change day, you must take the stick outside with reading glasses on...

Take a small diameter or garden hose at say 3 feet long. One hose end in your ear. Other on the spot at the head you think is leaking. Start the engine. Listen for a chuffing/huffing/puffing sound. Move the hose away from the area to confirm. Listen again.

My man, you need to get in the habit of checking it prior to EVERY mow. On the full mark, not under and def not over. Yours is pretty clean. Doing this is a must-do, yearly or more often, maintenance item, on every air cooled engine out there. Download your engine manual and read it a couple...

Coils need a clean mounting ground as well. Polish the areas where the coils sit and the screws plus where the screws sit. Air gap at a max of 0.010".

$1.39 to your door...

Toss your bulb type spark checker in the trash can.

Here, $1.39 to your door. Best tool you can get especially for the money...

Nice to have the engine numbers posted. Take pictures or post a video of it. Youtube it and link it here.

Yeah breather hose plugged up? Blow into it and test it.

See how yours is off? 1/16" to 1/8" shy of touching the air vane.

Read the service bulletin StarTech posted. It has everything about the autochoke and how to set it up. You might need to buy a new throttle spring and the air vane autochoke spring??

I do see a small tweak you need to make on the thermostat. The blue oval area needs to be in the center of the red lines on both axis. Push the metal arm (yellow arrow) the same direction as it is pointed. There are two plastic lines (red lines) on each axis telling you where it needs to be...

Crazy but sounds like your throttle plate is on backwards or throttle spring backwards? Makes no sense. Should warm up and the revs follow.

Again, that engine, should operate, at say 3600rpm, all day long. Yes one could have a throttle cable IF your mower has one to adjust rpm. You don't and shouldn't need to adjust rpm. Autochoke is made for a single speed engine, for the most part. Wondering if you possibly got the throttle...

FYI Recommend buying non-resistor plugs from a local auto parts store. Stay off scamazon and fleabay for plugs. They are highly pirated and are junk from online sites.

Nice job.

So sounds like faulty pumps. If you pull the hose off AT the carb inlet and have nothing, pump is lame. Obviously cranking the engine while doing this. One could install a higher than the carb aux fuel source for testing. If she runs like a top, AGAIN it points to a bad pump. Just for...

You know saws for sure and some if not all trimmers require hi octane fuel? These tend to have more compression. Push mowers and riders can use 87 non Ethanol all day.

Going with carb flooding. Pull oil dip stick and smell for gas. If you smell gas, STOP, don't try to run the engine. Fix the carb needle/seat first. Change the oil three times after it is all sorted. Oil is cheap. Install an inline fuel cut off valve.

You are in cool season grass land. High as your mower will cut. Fescues and other Kentucky Blue Grass like hybrids like it tall. Actually it's up to the home owner. Need to get their input on it. Look at de-thatching too. Everyone mulch mows. All those clipping that "they" say never decompose.

Don't be harsh on the engine too fast. I bet when new it was a one pull superstar. Probably never had any maintenance done. Cooling fins all packed up with debris. Valve clearance inspection I know what is that. LOL