Removing the fuel filter

[slomo]

Fuel hoses turn hard as a carp and are/can be VERY tough to remove. I think someone recommended cutting the hose off which is what it takes most of the time.

If it's tough to remove, replace it. Keep a couple feet of new fuel line in your tool box.

 

[Mark H_NO]

Sounds like it's tighter than it is hard. If you get the old filter removed, you may find it very hard to install the new one...

 

[slomo]

Mostly. The nearest station with the good stuff is about 20 miles away!

Recommend getting a couple extra cans on facetrash marketplace. Make the drive if you are in the area where you can buy non Ethanol fuel. Put some old school formula Sta-Bil in every can.

 

[2muchgrass2mow]

Sounds like it's tighter than it is hard. If you get the old filter removed, you may find it very hard to install the new one...

I may research a few to see the size of the posts, but I suspect you are right. Thanks!

 

[2muchgrass2mow]

Recommend getting a couple extra cans on facetrash marketplace. Make the drive if you are in the area where you can buy non Ethanol fuel. Put some old school formula Sta-Bil in every can.

Yeah, I am slong-time Stabil fan. I can get non-E gas in Callahan VA, and do occasionally.

 

[slomo]

As you already know, stay away from E-10 if at all possible. Less HP and MPG's are widely known.

Wonder how much HP loss is in say a 5HP Briggs on E-10? Small engines like these have to be effected more than the next sentence below.

I know there is a 2-3 MPG loss in a 2016 Suburban 5.3 V-8 on E-10.

 

[2muchgrass2mow]

As you already know, stay away from E-10 if at all possible. Less HP and MPG's are widely known.

Wonder how much HP loss is in say a 5HP Briggs on E-10? Small engines like these have to be effected more than the next sentence below.

I know there is a 2-3 MPG loss in a 2016 Suburban 5.3 V-8 on E-10.

I wouldn’t hazard a guess!

 

[2muchgrass2mow]

Need to be careful about twisting the fuel line onto or off of fittings because with the modern low perm fuel lines it can damaged the plastic liner which causes it to collapse or break apart into pieces and end up in places that cause problems later.

This happens sometimes when a 1/4" fuel line is forced over a 5/16" nipple.
This is the fuel filter that I recommend.

Kohler Repair Part 24 050 10-S - Fuel Filter | PartsTree

Find the Kohler Fuel Filter 24 050 10-S and thousands of other genuine OEM replacement parts at PartsTree. Fast shipping and easy returns.

www.partstree.com

Thanks! I ordered a fuel filter this morning from those folks - one matched specifically to my Kawasaki 21.5 HP engine. Looks like the nipples are a little shorter. That, plus trimming 1/4 i
N. or so from both line ends should be easier.
Best,
2mgtm

 

[Auto Doc's]

Can you take a picture of the filter in question an attach it to this thread? Is this engine fuel injected? I ask because you may be fighting a factory formed fuel line.

 

[Skippydiesel]

Two points:

• "Rubber" hoses seem to "weld" themselves to the push on spigot/barb. The older the connection & hose, the harder it is to separate them. The advise about replacing the hose is good. Go for high quality hose, as the hardening over time will be slower ie removing your filter will likly be easier. Note: Even unused hose, if kept for long enough, will show signs of hardening.
• ILENGINE's prybar advice is spot on, if a tad expensive for something you can easily make yourself, out of an old or cheap wide blade screwdriver.

I find using a smear high quality silicon grease (no hydrocarbon) on the spigot/barb, before pushing on the hose, will make for an easy push on and easier removal, at the next service.
If the hose is really stiff, it will be easier to remove, if you slit it over the spigot/barb fitting.