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Thanks Ilengine. So Packard, measure the resistance of the clutch. At 1 ohm, it'll draw over 12 amps, 2 ohms 6 amps, roughly. It depends on the voltage with engine running.

What should the resistance of the clutch be, or is it specific to engine type?

Yes.

The pulse line is the 3rd line to the fuel pump. One to tank, one to carb, and one to engine, to supply pressure pulses from the engine to the pump.

can you grab it? Can you move it? I would try a socket, but be very gentle. I wonder if someone installed the wrong bushing. should he try and seat the bushing? Maybe with a deep well socket?

I think that's what he was asking about doing with a punch. Is that right Collector?

Ok then. Compression or leakdown test then.

The big red wire from the starter goes to one of the big terminals on the solenoid. Where does the red wire go?

I know you pulled the valve covers, did you adjust the valves?

You said fuel was present, but how does it flow? If there's a fuel pump, pull the line from tank to pump and see how it flows. Hook that back up, take it off the carb, crank the engine and see how it flows. If both are good, move on to carb, if not, fuel tank could be dirty, or fuel pump not...

I think he's saying the brass is a bushing, not the seal.

Thanks Forest. By the way, this is one of my favorite online resources for this stuff. It's great to get info from someone you can interact with.

I have friends who are gunsmiths, and they bag parts going into the ultrasonic cleaner, so only the solution in the bag gets dirty, so they are throwing away less degreaser. I've got big ziplocks, is it worth doing with small engine carbs?

I'd try jetting it. It sounds like you looked into the reviews. Good luck.

So, you have good fuel flow at carb, and have replaced the pulse line. As ILengine was saying, it could be the amazon carb You said no adjustments. How did you pick the carb? Did it have many reviews? That's one of the things I check, I don't want to buy it if it only shows a small number...

Welcome!

When you were testing, did you have fuel lines disconnected, so you could see the flow?

I left off the pulse line. Definitely check that for cracks/leaks, and a good connect at the motor end.

You've replaced a bunch of fuel lines and stuff, have you tested the fuel flow? Disconnect line at carb, crank engine, see how fuel flows. Disconnect from pump, see how that flows by gravity. The fuel pickup could be clogged and restricting flow. If you remove gas cap and shine a flashlight...

Double check belt routing, idler pulley and spring. Check hydro fluid.

Another thing to check, is jumper from battery terminal to starter terminal on solenoid. That will help determine if it's in the switching or the battery. Definitely check all the safety switches.

What you said was that it did not turn over. You charged overnight and it started. It would not start later. A few minutes is not enough to recover from starting. If it tries to turn, but does not, it is often insufficient power to the starter. If nothing happens, or just a click when you...

How old is the battery? When you started it, how long did you run the motor? Most likely, the battery is dying, but it could be some circuit isn't shutting down, and is draining it, or charging system. Measure voltage at battery. Charge the battery, then measure voltage again, should be...

Good news! Thanks for the update.

Give model and serial number. One tip is seat switch. Is the problem that the PTO clutch does not engage when you switch it on?

You probably need to adjust the governor. This is the first video I found. I just searched kohler PH-XT-149-0226 governor adjust. The governor uses a centrifugal device to rotate a shaft as the engine speeds up. The shaft comes out of the engine, and hooks to the throttle. It has to be...

If that's the factory carb, replacing needle/seat/seals avoids issues with questionable clone carbs. However, carbs are available, and I've had pretty good luck with them, even Amazon. From Amazon, I look at the reviews. I want to see mostly good reviews, and hundreds of them. I don't want...

When you put the pump on the other mower, which hoses are you using? Check the pulse hose connection to the engine. Remove the hose and make sure it's clear and not cracked.

Good point.

Here's a parts diagram for that engine and carb. https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/manufacturer/briggs-stratton/briggs-stratton-engine/100000-19z999-series/12f700-to-12f799/12f702-0606-01/carburetor It shows a needle valve, and idle speed kit, 94 and 98. Did you see them...

Ok, just checking. Check the pulse line, maybe there's a crack. If you take the fuel line off the carb, and crank the engine, what happens?

The cam issues wouldn't cause a problem when you put the air filter plate on. That's gotta be blocking air/fuel, or binding a linkage or something like that, IMO.

Slomo is talking about the pickup in the tank. When you say before the filter, are you blowing towards carb or tank?

I'm definitely going to try that second type, I've never had good luck with the first either. It breaks, and now you've got a really hard piece of steel in the center of your broken bolt.

Fuel lines to the primer, make sure they're not overly hard, make sure the bulb can draw and push fuel. There could be a clog.

So that hole I see in the pictures has a bolt in it? Something is rubbing that belt. Can you move the belt by hand? Ilengine said "This deck uses a spring connected between a J hook on the rear axle and the rear of that flat plate mounted on the rear of the deck to tension the belt when the...

Disconnect the plug, and try to manually turn the engine over.

Also, I see a missing bolt on one of the belt covers. You need to check those and make sure they're not free to rub the back of the belt.

You're welcome. Glad it was the easy answer.

Ignition switch shorted out, maybe elsewhere also. Time for wiring diagram and voltmeter.

Good question. For the voltage to pull down as much as it was doing, something had to be sucking current, which can melt insulation, burn wires, and more. Check the throttle cables etc while you're doing fuel lines too. Check the choke cables, make sure they can move freely. Choke full on...

Thanks for the update. Replace fuel lines is always good if any doubt. When you say won't run, are you saying it starts, then quits? That's where we were after changing the regulator. When you were testing fuel flow, how long did you flow for? When you change fuel lines, drain the tank...

Is there any news Kawamoto26?

Good news, glad the regulator fixed the voltage drop problem. Try the original carb. It really sounds like a fuel problem at this point.

Well, I can see it in those pictures.

Thanks for the update.

Where is the plug from? I hear there's lots of clones out there that don't work well, and you should buy from local auto parts store. Don't test 2 stroke with starting fluid, there's no lube in it. You can spray mixed gas instead. Make sure all the gas/vac lines are run correctly.

New carb may help. I believe the carb may have a diaphragm to pump fuel, and they can harden. Glad to hear you dealt with fuel lines, tank and fresh fuel. So often, that's what it needs.

I don't know if it's the picture resolution, but that doesn't look bad to me your compression is good, and it runs well. For starting, check the prime, and fuel lines.

But the pump works well, fuel flows well with engine not running, then voltage down with motor running. But something is drawing it down... Check voltage with pump running, then with engine running.