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No, you treated that battery well, and it paid off.

Got it, replied.

Check section 5 too.

Sounds like the carb float is leaking badly. When you cleaned carb, did you test the float valve?

I have had decent luck with Amazon carbs, but I never buy the cheapest. I look for reviews, and sales numbers, and keep my fingers crossed. You can remove the float and valve, and wet the valve and seat, then reassemble and test. It just needs to not be dry. My pressure tester's instructions...

Did you have the carb upside down when you were blowing into the fuel line? If you did, and had to add pressure to stop the flow, that's a problem. The float valve needs to be wet to test however. As Ilengine said, the pressure tester is the best test for this. Where is the carb from? There...

Good deal! Glad to hear it worked. That career in IT comes in handy now and then.

It let me put it in the cart.

There are usually safety switches associated with brakes, control arms, and PTO. The zero turn I use most, you have to take off the brake, then you can move the arms and engage PTO. I imagine you're familiar with any sequence you have to do. Maybe one of the switches is not working reliably...

Sounds like a safety switch.

Congratulations! Glad you were able to work it out.

I think that with all those pulleys, it's accumulating a little slack at each one and adding up to too much. Have you tried using the blade to turn the pulley and pull tension? Pull the plug wire first.

Looking at the pictures, do you have the deck lowered? Maybe with the deck lifted, you can stretch it on. Pull all the slack, hook the belt onto that last pulley, and turn the pulley to stretch it on. I'm talking about the shorter belt, by the way.

What's the mower model?

:giggle: it moves freely?

Are you trying to remove the wire from the black housing? If you look at the loose wire, there's a tab that rises away from the connector. That holds it in. If you look at the connector in the housing, and wiggle the wire, you may be able to see where it catches. A tiny screwdriver, or...

Make sure you're getting the full movement on the tension arm.

Did you inspect the connectors as Slomo and Auto Doc said?

He did say he cleaned the tank. I didn't see him say he removed it. He started with fuel issues, worked on that, and then said that it stalls when hitting a bump.

You're welcome, good luck!

Cleaning the carb is always a good idea. If it's been run for 5 years with no carb cleaning, start there. As part of the cleaning, test the fuel flow. Drain into a jar, let it sit and see if there's any water.

Figure out a way to get a mechanical advantage... Find a way to use a lever. Put bolts in the 2 holes and use a pry bar to rotate. Tie a loop of paracord in the hole the spring is in and find a way to use the prybar to rotate till it seats. What if you unhook the spring, and seat the pulley...

OK, that makes sense.

With a cap used, the one on the right is fine. I really dislike the new gas can spouts, especially the one on the left. The middle isn't as bad.

Searching on that carb info finds a bunch of stuff around the world, but not finding much in America. The engine model number would help. Does it look like any of these?

So, it runs several times a week, other than winter. I'm assuming it has been running this year, and doesn't have winter fuel still in it. I agree with sgkent, don't start buying a bunch of parts, other than plugs if they are questionable. I've had decent luck running Seafoam to clear up...

We've got a tropical storm on the way. Minor so far. Keep your head down.

Is it backfiring through carb, or exhaust? What are the mower and engine model #s? May need serial also. How long has it been since the carb was cleaned? How much work do you do with it?

Jack's small engines, partstree, ereplacementparts, and others. Get under there and check it all out.

What kind of spark tester? How dark is it where you're testing? I often need to find good shade to test spark, or I can't see it. The light bulb/LED tester is not a very good test, but it tends to show spark too often, which isn't your issue. Make sure you have a good ground for testing...

Not enough tension in the belt can do that, as well as alignment. First make sure the belt is routed correctly. Then I would look closely at the installation and alignment of the pulleys. Have you replaced the drive belt? It's easy enough to get the wrong belt. Check the pulleys to make...

So, if you haven't done it yet, pull fuel line off the carb, and drain into a jar. Drain a couple of inches, and let it sit, and see if there's water present. Forgot that part.

So, this tells us you need to clean the tank. At least you know where the problem is.

I'll look at it first. Thank you.

Check fuel flow. Pull fuel line at carb. Does it flow freely? If not, blow compressed air into line, remove gas cap first. If that gets it flowing, you need to clean the tank. If it flowed well, move to the carb. Pull the bowl. Does fuel flow? If you lift and lower the float, does it...

Thank you Star Tech.

I may need a brake pad/pads for this mower, and can't find it listed anywhere. The rear axle parts diagrams don't include the brakes. I'm not sure I need it yet, but was looking it up just in case. There is one disc, on the left side of the axle. have 2 of these, one at my house, the other...

If you ask a question about a mower, supply model and serial number. If it's an engine question, supply model info on engine also. That's the main one. Writing in sentences, using punctuation helps, and you seem to be doing that quite well. Welcome!

You said " As long as I have one arm pushed forward a little, even though the other arm is pulled back some, it won't stall." That really sounds suspicous. Are you talking about crossing through the neutral point, or just relaxing off full forward? Auto Doc said "The control arms (handles)...

Do you have model number/serial for mower and motor? That helps anyone looking for a replacement part...

True enough, but there was a new post from Sharky saying he has the same problem.

Or crud in gas tank. When it quits, pull fuel line from carb and check for free flow. If it's not free, clean tank, replace tank filter if there is one, think about replacing all fuel lines.

Good! Thanks for the update.

Rivets is correct that this could test your patience and skills. Do you have a voltmeter? You'll probably need one. I would clean the contacts on the blade clutch switch, and the connection to the clutch. I would read the resistance of the clutch when cool and functional, and hot and non...

Some people here take the information provided, and look for answers to help the poster. If you have bad information, or lack of information, it can be hard to help.

Thanks. I worked on a Toro, and the release is a lever on the back of the machine, and I was sort of looking for something accessible. Never mind....:) I was going to jack up the rear end and pull the back wheels. I'm sure I will find those releases. I did watch the video, and the hydro...

Ok, last question for today. How do I activate the bypass? The hydrogear manual shows where the bypass levers are, but I don't recall anything on the Dixie Chopper to activate them. The manual says I need to cycle the controls with bypass open and closed. I've ordered filters, and hope to do...

Thanks again.

Just found that, thanks. Is there a good way to pick an equivalent? Lots out there for 1/2 the cost of Hydro-Gear. Normally on Amazon, I look for lots of good ratings, and stay away from stuff with only a couple reviews.

So, it is a Magnum, 2550ko. The sticker under the seat is badly faded, but based on it being 25 horse, 50 inch cut, kohler motor, I think I got the right model #. Owner doesn't remember the filters ever being changed, so that's up for next weekend. Hopefully Hydro Gear will tell me which filters.