what are the two holes for 2009 Troy-Bilt lower pulley assembly [solved]

figuring8out

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Hello, I'm currently working on a Troy-Bilt 21" XP self-propelled mower 175cc, model 12AI869F011 as it stopped propelling recently. Assuming the problem is a worn drive belt, I bought an after-market one and have it on. The last time we changed the belt was 2018 and as my husband is working out of state, I'm trying to fix it myself, not knowing fully how all of the mechanisms work. Last time we changed the belt, my husband cut a four-inch access hole to the back of the chassis to have access to the belt attachment to the rear transmission. I got a tin can end to fit over the hole and attached short screws to cover it, so it's now easily accessible.
I'm having problem with the plastic lower pulley assembly as to which way it's supposed to go (align with mower). I thought I put it back in the way it was before I disassembled it, but apparently got it wrong as now when I start it and depress the drive bar, it doesn't even hesitate to move like it was doing. I can't find a ytube on this particular type of mower. Do I install it as it is shown in the spec? I assume this is how it should go in, but I didn't reference this spec before I worked on it. Also, why are there two holes for the drive cable spring to attach this part? The cable spring hook fell out when I took it apart and so I'm not sure which hole it should go in.
Thanks for your time and looking in to this. I appreciate it. I like this mower and it has seen some use as we bought it in 2010 for a bit over $400. I like the rear-drive mowers better than the front-drive ones, especially in our rough yard that has hidden rocks the armadillo kicks up, etc.
P.S. Next day, my husband said which hole you use depends on the length of the cable used on different models of mower. That makes sense. He calls the part a wedge cam. That's engineers for you.
 

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I should have waited before posting as I finally figured it out. There's a notch on the other side of the lower pulley assembly that must match the arrow on the engine baffle. Now the only problem I'm having is I don't have the strength my husband has. I was probably helping him hold the engine baffle while he turned the lower pulley with cable attached clockwise until it fully seated. I'm resting my wrists as it ain't easy. I get nearly there to where it seats into the matching grooves, but am unable to turn it all of the way flush/fully seated. This link is the only one I found on this situation.troy-bilt lower drive pulley orientation mentioning the tight spring. Figuring it out as I go.
 

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Figure out a way to get a mechanical advantage... Find a way to use a lever. Put bolts in the 2 holes and use a pry bar to rotate. Tie a loop of paracord in the hole the spring is in and find a way to use the prybar to rotate till it seats. What if you unhook the spring, and seat the pulley, can you connect the spring? Don't break anything, but figure out a way besides brute force. You can figure it out.
 
Thanks so much, Mark! I was thinking along the same lines as there's got to be a way to get leverage, as you say, on it, because that's the problem I'm having. Time to try it before it gets hot outside, taking advantage of this appreciated cool-down while it lasts. "Don't break anything" is good advice as I tend to do that when repairing something when I let frustration get the better of me.
 
I knew it couldn't be this hard to put this part together again, so I did try something else first before the leverage helps you shared and checked the cables at the handlebar end. I pushed the two cable wires back into their sheaths/conduits and then when I checked the other end there was slack in the drive cable. I don't know why I wasn't able to get the slack from the shaft end when I tried the same thing, but that's me and my limited understanding of these things. Not mechanically inclined. For instance, I even had the new belt over the wrong side of the two transmission pulleys and had to text my husband who said the v-belt goes between the pulleys. Duh. Common sense, right? But I couldn't see the forest for the trees. Once I had the belt on correctly, the tension in the belt was correct and not loose.
Tested it this morning and it runs great in all four speeds, though I rarely use more than speed 1.
Thanks again for your help and tips. I have a Huskee 3-in-1 push mower that I could use some help with, too, but that will be for another thread. (engine apart, on workbench, waiting for me to put it back together, but that thing called the oil slinger and aligning it when closing up the two clam shells is giving me some difficulties.)
 

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