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MParr, the number I got is from the sticker in the second pic from your link. I will look again for the other one.

Thanks, I'll look into that.

I found what some have said is the model # sticker, and it has 17101226. I can't find anything that says that's a model number. The sticker is on the frame by the right front wheel. It's a Kohler 25hp powered mower made in 2016. I can't find anything that says it's a model number. Any...

That'll do it.

What kind of bad gas? Was there crud in it? Clean out that tank if you haven't already.

I'm not clear on what you're describing. Fuel won't come from tank, but the hoses are clear? Have you blown into the hose going to the tank? That will often loosen crud clogging the fuel pickup. Of course if it works, it means you need to clean the tank and fuel pickup. Check fuel flow from...

2.4 Ohms sounds decent. Hopefully fixing the short takes care of the problem.

Or clutch is drawing too much power. Comparing voltage between clutch engaged and not engaged would tell us something, as would the resistance of the clutch.

Is that voltage with blade engaged or not? Check it both ways. Check the resistance of the PTO clutch, as StarTech said.

Well, I was answering, but Ilengine beat me to it. Get out that voltmeter.

Did you drain the fuel tank? You could have crud in the tank. Auto Doc's and slomo both mentioned this.

Don't forget the fuel tank. Check fuel flow, clean tank.

Have you checked fuel flow to carb? It needs to flow freely, not a trickle. You replaced filter and lines, but could have crud in the tank.

I thought so, but did not want to ASSUME. You know what that does.:p

If she's 15, she ought to be able to hold the seat down. I would check that the seat moves freely, and there isn't something blocking it. I can normally press on the seat with my hand and activate the switch. Check the switch and make sure it's not damaged. I didn't think we were talking...

You need to check wiring diagram, as the seat switch may have more than one function. You also get a clue if the connector has more than 2 wires. For example, the PTO clutch may need the seat switch activated. Is the grand daughter mature enough to run the machine? Bypassing the seat switch...

So, if you use water to check for leaks, does the motor slow if it's sucking water, or do you just see it being sucked in?

You're welcome!

Thanks for the update. I'm glad I was able to help.

Sounds like the switch, or wires/connections.

When you jump the solenoid, are you jumping from the battery terminal to the starter? If so, your solenoid could be bad.

In the third video, the fan blade/pulley seems to be shaking more than the other one. In the first video, around 16 seconds, there seems a lot of vibration in that arm/spring. I don't know that machine, but that's what I get from the videos.

Looking back at the first post, check fuel flow to carb. You may have crud in the tank, migrating into the carb, and sticking the needle valve open.

I would start with needle valve. While you have the bowl off, check on the solenoid too, but the needle valve is the main suspect. Change the oil once you fix the problem too.

Well that could be a problem. Have you used the compression tester on anything else? Just trying to find out if it's known good, and you're used to using it.

Did you check for free flow from tank to pump, then from pump to carb? Sure sounds like you're not getting enough.

How did you check the spark?

Did you compare the belts before installing? The belt could be longer. When you installed it, did it seem to be the same tension? Where did you get the belt? Generic auto parts belts are not the same as mower belts.

OK, runs great, kill switch works. Thanks slomo.

Ok, put it back together enough to do your test. I get spark bypassing plug. Bought plug at O'Reilly's. Putting back together, should be running soon. I know there isn't a lot of resistance on that coil terminal to ground, but it fooled me. I need a good VOM. I got spoiled by the Fluke...

Yes, I know. The main concern for the generator is refrigeration, but I have not tested with it since replacing carb. I have used this generator for several storms with extended power loss. It ran my refrigerator fine. I'm just testing some before declaring the generator fixed. After I put...

No compressor in that 16 amps, that's 2 power tools rated draws. I wanted to see what happened to voltage/RPM when I put on an electrical load. It's a saw and a 1/2" impact driver. Steady running.

I'm going to test with a meter that reads Hertz, I have one, but it's not reliable. How about refrigeration? That's my main concern during hurricane season. I ordered a kill o watt meter. Testing with 16 amp load, voltage was stable at 120.

I have no signs of spark, but have not tested without the plug. My thought was that since I see short to ground at the terminal, coil is bad. Is that correct? I had to remove the recoil start to get at the coil, and it's a pain to put back together.

Thanks!

Good news, thanks for the update.

What do you spray it with? I tried reusing a sprayer, and the fuel just leaked out in a hurry.

engine model 091412 E type 0130 code 060110 Y Fuel flows, kill switch set to run. No fire, even with starting fluid. Can't detect spark with gap tester or bulb. Wire from magneto to kill switch measures dead ground, even unhooked from switch. Lots of covers to remove, but I got to the coil...

The best spark testers have a gap, where it makes a spark, rather than the light bulb. That's the air gap tester. The bulb is too easy to light and doesn't really tell you if the coil makes a good spark.

Also, posting the model numbers helps others assist you.

Please don't make multiple posts on one problem...

Got fuel? Do you use a fuel cutoff for winter storage? I imagine it has a fuel pump. If you pull the fuel line from tank to pump, does fuel flow freely? Have you tried starting fluid? If you have any 2 stroke fuel, you can spray a little in the carb and see if it fires. If not, need to...

So, I replaced the fuel tank, since I got one free. The original had a hole over the spark plug, so I made a heat shield to protect the tank more in that area. I should be able to change the plug without pulling the tank. Fired it up, tweaked the spring on the governor arm, lubed pivots etc...

Could something have bent? You say you had to replace blades, I'm assuming they hit something. Could the deck have bent where a spindle mounts? The old belt didn't suddenly shrink 2 inches. Is there an idler pulley that lost its spring or is jammed somehow? I'm sure you have done this, but...

There is a model and serial number tag on the engine. It should have what you need to identify which flavor.

Good point about the fuel filter!

Fuel filter is backwards. The arrow should point toward the carb. I doubt that's the problem, but it's easy to fix, just in case. The starter gear should drop when engine starts. If engine does not start, it may stay engaged. If turning the flywheel drops the starter gear, it's probably...

As you say, that doesn't sound like the valve timing is right.

No need to go away. This is a pretty friendly place, though there can be misunderstandings...

Sounds good. Can you drop the bowl? That should let you see the tip of the solenoid actuator. You want a fuel line cutoff for this...