Shop tricks and tips

Yes WD40 works great on 2 cycle for starting fluid, I just use a reg spray can with the tube.

I never use starting fluid on 4 cycles I have seen a few snowblowers have major damage from it when its cold, I only use carb cleaner for 4 strokes.
 
Edwards saw service said:
I'll throw in one. To get the clutch off of a chain saw instead of using rope packed in the cylinder which I was told was a bad idea. Use a 3/8 drive impact wrench with the appropriate socket. Works like a charm without holding the piston steady.

Edwards Saw Service in Glen Mills PA
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Chain saw clutches are left hand thread. Removing the recoll starter assembly is highly recommended before attempting to remove a chainsaw clutch as you can break it and/or the flywheel should you think that the clutch is right hand thread and attempt to remove it with the impact wrench turning the wrong direction. Almost all chainsaw clutches require a special tool to remove them, there are many different types and sizes.
Small chainsaws that have an integral clutch and sprocket don't last very long and a worn one will ruin a new chain in a short time in addition to increased difficulty adjusting the chain tension. I replace the clutches on my small Husqvarnas several time a year. My larger saws have a replacable chain sprocket but replacement on some still requires clutch removal depending on the type of clutch installed.
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing:
 
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Regarding ether: I'm not a big fan of it for starting up gasoline engines if I can avoid it. It has a tendency to explode rather than burn, and nasty things can happen to all the hapless stuff exposed to that. My personal favorite is some kind of squirt can or bottle with raw gas or mixed gas. What I'll do on a diesel for starting fluid is to spray a little ether on a rag, and then hold the rag up on the air intake while cranking. This seems to be easier on things than putting a big slug of stuff down the hatch and then turning it over.:biggrin:
 
I'll get out my trusty label-making machine or a permanent magic marker and put the belt(s) width and length where I can see it. If the belt gets thoroughly destroyed in some mishap, it's a lot easier than taking a carcass into the auto parts store 3 or 4 times for the right one.:wink:
 
If you're having trouble keeping a belt where it should be until you get everything in place, take a pair of locking pliers (aka Vise-Grips) and hold your belt in place that way. Not too tight, just enough to keep things in place.:smile:
 
I use Bel-Ray foam filter oil for my foam pre filters , works better than anything I have ever used. My cousan thats a dirt bike racer gave me a parcial bottle , been using it ever since.
 
Edwards saw service said:
Starting fluid is harsh on small engines especially two cycle because the chemicals in ether or starting fluid dry out the piston and cylinder which can wreck havoc over a long period of time. So to diagnose a machine instead of using starting fluid take gas mixed with two stroke oil and put it in a cheap spray bottle like a windex bottle. Then you've got your "starting fluid".

Edwards Saw Service in Glen Mills PA
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Us Arctic Cat guys call that "Meow Mix" .:laughing:
 
greggn said:
Us Arctic Cat guys call that "Meow Mix" .:laughing:
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That's dern funny.

I absolutely agree with the original post; I've seen broken rings, scored cylinder walls, bent rods, blown head gaskets on all size of equipment that used starting fluid. It can wreak havoc on all sorts of things. On diesels, I take a shop rag, spray a little ether on it, and while cranking the engine, hold the rag up to the air cleaner for a short time.
 
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