z335e will not crank when key is turned

Thanks. I suspected the box in the fuse panel was K2.
I went back to check everything again and found the 7.5A fuse blown again. I replaced it and jump started the starter to crank it. The engine runs fine but when I pull either of the handles in, the engine stops. The brake was disengaged so that wasn't the issue. I tried to engage the blade while it was running and the PTO worked fine. Since the engine runs fine, I believe D1 and D2 are OK.
 
Did anyone consider the battery may be a dud - not deliverer sufficient amps to crank the engine OR a posative/ negative lead my be loose/not making a good contact? :devilish:
 
Skippydiesel said:
Did anyone consider the battery may be a dud - not deliverer sufficient amps to crank the engine OR a posative/ negative lead my be loose/not making a good contact? :devilish:
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The battery is less than a year old, fully charged, and all connections tested. Its not getting 12V to the starter solenoid. I wonder if the new switch is defective. Anyone have an isolation test sequence for the switch?

When I direct crank and start the engine, it is like something thinks the brake is still engaged because pulling in the handles immediately kills the engine just like it should when the brake is engaged.
 
Okay when the brake is release K2 12v comes thru the seat switch. For some reason when 12v goes thru a safety they tends to burn the contacts.

This where you can temporarily for test purposes install a jumper wire in the seat switch connector. Now it operates normally then it is the seat switch, if not then it likely the brake switch a break in the wiring. As apparently K2 is at least partially working as it opening the kill circuit so the engine can run and as when you pull in the lap bar it goes back closing the kill circuit.
 
I already put a jumper wire on the seat switch connector. That is the only way I could manually crank the starter.
 
D0UG said:
I already put a jumper wire on the seat switch connector. That is the only way I could manually crank the starter.
Click to expand...
Are you saying it wouldn't fire up or is that the starter would not operate by jumping the two main posts of the solenoid?

To me it is beginning to sound like either the wrong brake switch was installed or it was rewired incorrectly.

Here is how the interlock kill circuit works normally.

1786389300368.png
 
The brake switch and the 2 neutral switches are the same - - Part Number: AM128925.
The brake switch SW4 connects to the connector with pink, yellow and white wires. The left neutral switch connects to the connector with green and yellow wires.

The 7.5A fuse blew again. I replaced it again and tried ignition switch but nothing happens so I
jump started it. (jumper cables from car battery to mower engine block and starter)

Engine starts and runs fine. Released the brake and engine still runs. Move either handle in and engine stops.

In all these tests, I have the seat switch compressed with a clamp because I cannot sit on the seat and reach everything else at the same time.
 
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The handle/brake combo is what kills it. Move the handle with brake on, and it kills. Sounds like brake switch not recognizing brake off.
 
I will exchange the brake switch and the right neutral switch and see if that makes a difference. I don't have an extra switch.
 
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