oldntired55
Well-Known Member
will do that when i get back in garage
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carb replacement or overhaul kit?
- Thread starter oldntired55
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- carb replacement
Gord Baker
Well-Known Member
Often on Snowblowers 30 seconds of warm up stops the surging. Black Smoke indicates too much fuel. Back off the choke a click or 2 during that time.
I had about the same problem, the engine would not speed up,so I tryed something different, Might want to try it, I added about a tablespoon of denatured fuel alcohol in the tank, ran the edger for couple minutes and the engine started running properly, couple more minutes and now running prefect.i am trying to overhaul this adjustable carb on a tecumseh 9hp snow king. this number is stamped in the carb body. is it a legitamate number? or a casting number? 1433J6X see attached photo, i think i found a kit on ebay. would the 7 ,8 and 9 Hp engines use the same kit?
If you have a genuine tecumseh adjustable carburetor (two-needle), then clean the jets and emulsion tube holes squeaky clean, and you should be golden. If there is any sign of even the slightest tinge of green inside the float bowl area, the pinholes in the emulsion tube and jets can be plugged. Unless the bowl is leaking or you damage a seal taking it apart, you shouldn’t need to kit it. Just clean it out. If you have a fixed jet type of carb as found on more modern units, you have to make sure the idle jet plug (tiny pin holes; like 4-6 of them, located where the idle needle would go) is squeaky clean because this does have some interference with the high speed fuel circuit. Next, clean out the pin holes and center bore of the float bowl nut which is also the main jet. The emulsion tube on these is often plastic (mine have been green plastic), and is not removable without destroying it. Run a pipe cleaner up through it with some solvent and that should be all it needs. I’ve got one of each carb type on the two units I currently have (Tecumseh HM80 Snow Kings), and after cleaning the green crap out of the fixed-jet carb, it runs as well as the adjustable. To prevent these carbs from ever being problematic again, install a fuel shut-off valve if not already equipped, and use it when done for the day. Turn the fuel off, and let the engine run the carb dry every time. Use fuel with STA-BIL added at 2oz per gallon of regular gas and running the carb dry every time will give you 20 years of service without ever having to open it up; this has been my experience with this adjustable carb I bought new 20 years ago that costed $85 back then.
andrewslarge
Well-Known Member
Carburetor For Tecumseh 8-10 HP 640152A HM80 HM90 HM100 Carb Generator Engines
I’ve purchased two of these for HM80 and a HM100. Worked perfectly except I failed to put the linkage in the correct hole on the top.
$13.76 on eBay
I’ve purchased two of these for HM80 and a HM100. Worked perfectly except I failed to put the linkage in the correct hole on the top.
$13.76 on eBay
Gord Baker
Well-Known Member
Absolutely Totally Correct Procedure. I only fill the tank 1/2 full but the key is to use the Fuel Shut Off valve every time once you get it running correctly.If you have a genuine tecumseh adjustable carburetor (two-needle), then clean the jets and emulsion tube holes squeaky clean, and you should be golden. If there is any sign of even the slightest tinge of green inside the float bowl area, the pinholes in the emulsion tube and jets can be plugged. Unless the bowl is leaking or you damage a seal taking it apart, you shouldn’t need to kit it. Just clean it out. If you have a fixed jet type of carb as found on more modern units, you have to make sure the idle jet plug (tiny pin holes; like 4-6 of them, located where the idle needle would go) is squeaky clean because this does have some interference with the high speed fuel circuit. Next, clean out the pin holes and center bore of the float bowl nut which is also the main jet. The emulsion tube on these is often plastic (mine have been green plastic), and is not removable without destroying it. Run a pipe cleaner up through it with some solvent and that should be all it needs. I’ve got one of each carb type on the two units I currently have (Tecumseh HM80 Snow Kings), and after cleaning the green crap out of the fixed-jet carb, it runs as well as the adjustable. To prevent these carbs from ever being problematic again, install a fuel shut-off valve if not already equipped, and use it when done for the day. Turn the fuel off, and let the engine run the carb dry every time. Use fuel with STA-BIL added at 2oz per gallon of regular gas and running the carb dry every time will give you 20 years of service without ever having to open it up; this has been my experience with this adjustable carb I bought new 20 years ago that costed $85 back then.
I don’t worry as much about how full the tank is except at the end of the season. As the season gets close to the end, I don’t keep as much fuel in it so when the snow is done, I just run the tank bone dry and leave it be. Some guys have recommended using a fogging oil at the end, but I‘ve never needed to. Project Farm on YouTube did a test with the various fuel stabilizers and storage fluids; sta-bil did the best job of keeping the innards clean. No fuel stabilizer did a good job keeping the fuel “fresh”; it will still lose its flammability after a long period of time No matter what you add to it.Absolutely Totally Correct Procedure. I only fill the tank 1/2 full but the key is to use the Fuel Shut Off valve every time once you get it running correctly.
Gord Baker
Well-Known Member
I never use StaBil etc and Premium Fuel is no longer available in Canada thanks to Woke Lieberals. The cool down after shutting off Fuel Supply is also beneficial I believe. First Pull!I don’t worry as much about how full the tank is except at the end of the season. As the season gets close to the end, I don’t keep as much fuel in it so when the snow is done, I just run the tank bone dry and leave it be. Some guys have recommended using a fogging oil at the end, but I‘ve never needed to. Project Farm on YouTube did a test with the various fuel stabilizers and storage fluids; sta-bil did the best job of keeping the innards clean. No fuel stabilizer did a good job keeping the fuel “fresh”; it will still lose its flammability after a long period of time No matter what you add to it.
oldntired55
Well-Known Member
thanks to my feeble old brain, somewhere i read about a welch plug 'sealer'. but i dont remember where i saw it. anyone have any idea?Opps I made a typo on the carb PN it is 632370A not 692370A. Finger got on the wrong numeric key.
If closing the main jet stops the surging then the carb is flooding. Did you invert the carburetor and pressure test? It should hold 7-10 psi for 30 minutes or longer.