Ferris IS2600Z Drive Belt Nightmare

neighborbill said:
I had seen this machine about a year ago before I made the purchase. I had/have a Scags at the time and was thinking that it was time to start looking for a new machine.
My first choice was another Scags. I wanted a diesel though with the next purchase. I priced out the Scags diesel and was shocked at the asking prices. I started calling dealers. No one would budge off of MSRP and some wanted more. Some dealers didn't even have any to purchase and would have to be ordered.
I went to the Internet.
Found the IS2600Z Ferris on sale at the place I bought it (100 plus miles away). Their price was $21,394.00 and a Clearance price of $19,995.00. Told them about my searches and said that I requested their best price and would make the purchase is I thought it was good. They came back with $16,500.00
How could I turn that down. Got my Diesel, 61 inch cut, and a great price.
I didn't do my homework like I should have. Don't get me wrong, the Ferris is a tank. But now that I am into fixing and maintaining it, I question whether I made a good decision.
Long story, but you asked.
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Thanks for answering.
I don’t see many diesel zero turns in SW Georgia. Those that I do see are either Kubota or John Deere. Every now and then I see a Grasshopper.
 
MParr said:
Thanks for answering.
I don’t see many diesel zero turns in SW Georgia. Those that I do see are either Kubota or John Deere. Every now and then I see a Grasshopper.
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I can’t believe they dropped the purchase price $4500 off of retail. You should remember this as you are going through all this aggregation with the drive belt.
 
MParr said:
Thanks for answering.
I don’t see many diesel zero turns in SW Georgia. Those that I do see are either Kubota or John Deere. Every now and then I see a Grasshopper.
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John Deere uses the Yanmar diesel. Same thing that I have in the Ferris. I've had very good experience with Yanmar. Those engines like Kubota will last a life time.
 
What is the model from the serial number tag? The one I looked up is simple to remove but yours might be a different setup. But it is a double belt setup.
 
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Okay now things are clearer. There is two sets of drive belts. One is the double belt setup the engine to the right angle gear box and the one belt that drives the two hydrostatic transaxles.

The engine to right angle is the easiest to change. The right angle to transaxles is a lot harder. Two things must be removed. One is the spring that goes from moving idler arm to frame. The other is the PTO clutch. Then you should be to remove the drive without cutting it. The installation is the reverse making you use some anti-seize compound as you re-install the PTO clutch. Having a tool to unhook the idler spring is a plus.

Other than it is basic ZTR drive belt replacement. The only issue I see might be getting the belt off the transaxle pulleys as some ZTRs have very little clearance between the pulleys and the frame so in those cases the units must be loosen to slip the belt off and on.

The key here is taking your time as it is time consuming work especially the first time you do it. This setup is a little different than most ZTRs with the additional two stationary idler pulleys. Also you finding why the shops have so many jacks and jack stands so we can safely work on these mowers.
 
StarTech said:
Okay now things are clearer. There is two sets of drive belts. One is the double belt setup the engine to the right angle gear box and the one belt that drives the two hydrostatic transaxles.

The engine to right angle is the easiest to change. The right angle to transaxles is a lot harder. Two things must be removed. One is the spring that goes from moving idler arm to frame. The other is the PTO clutch. Then you should be to remove the drive without cutting it. The installation is the reverse making you use some anti-seize compound as you re-install the PTO clutch. Having a tool to unhook the idler spring is a plus.

Other than it is basic ZTR drive belt replacement. The only issue I see might be getting the belt off the transaxle pulleys as some ZTRs have very little clearance between the pulleys and the frame so in those cases the units must be loosen to slip the belt off and on.

The key here is taking your time as it is time consuming work especially the first time you do it. This setup is a little different than most ZTRs with the additional two stationary idler pulleys. Also you finding why the shops have so many jacks and jack stands so we can safely work on these mowers.
Click to expand...
Not sure exactly what you are saying. Here is what I have. There are two belts but only one is for the hydrostatic transaxles. the other belt is for the deck.
The hydro belt is on top of the clutch the deck belt fits on same shaft but is on the clutch. You must remove the deck belt off of the pulley before you can get the upper drive belt off. Next you need to disconnect the power line to the clutch and disconnect the rubber piece that connects to the frame and to the clutch. Now you are suppose to be able to slip the upper belt off. I could not get the upper belt past the frame and the clutch pulley. So I dropped the clutch and took off the belt.
So far so good. From here on out the belt is loop around both hydro's , idler's, and spring tension bolt.
the belt should feed (from the rear) from drive to the pulley that has the spring tension on it and the stationary pulley to its right.
There is an arm that is across those two pulleys. That belt should go underneath that arm. It's not.
It is on the left hand side of the spring tension pulley.
How the heck jumped out of that track I have no idea.
The simplest thing to do (as it looks) is to remove the arm and put the belt underneath it.
I tried to remove that arm. However, it is attached with a nylon nut and when you try to remove it the bolt spins with it.
Getting at that bolt is impossible. There is no room to put a wrench on the bolt and turn the nut off.
 
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