Age old question, Winter Storage?

I have never used any fuel additive and have never had any problems starting in the spring. I shut the fuel off and run the engine till it starts to die out then I apply the choke and let it run till it dies and that probably gets all of the gas out of the bowl. I have unplugged a lot of carbureators for other people but none were mine.
 
I have never used any fuel additive and have never had any problems starting in the spring. I shut the fuel off and run the engine till it starts to die out then I apply the choke and let it run till it dies and that probably gets all of the gas out of the bowl. I have unplugged a lot of carbureators for other people but none were mine.
Guess there are several tried techniques that work and I’ve read that even letting it run out of fuel can eventually leave some residue that bill build up, in the carb. Others say this technique causes the fuel hose to dry out, so perhaps there are several different ways to ensure a good spring startup with a clean carb?
Im kind of black & white and always want to follow the best possible procedure, however it seems as though there are several and no one best scenario in this case?
 
How does everyone like the new CHINASTRATTON push mower motors. The oil ring on the old 3 horse Briggs measures .187 . The oil ring on the new china crap motors measures .100 . Stop wasting your money on cheap China made crap. The ignition coils are also MADE IN CHINA CRAP. They are on back order.
 
The worst thing you can do is to leave untreated, ethanol garbage gas in your tractor for the winter. The advice given by some here to do so is just asking for problems. The fuel will create condensation (water), turn toxic and the ethanol in it will eat away at rubber & carburetor parts.

First off, use the correct amount of Sea Foam (1 T. per gallon) ALL CUTTING SEASON to neutralize the ethanol. Then, when you've done your last cut for the season, figure out (overestimate rather than underestimate) how many gallons it will take to fill the gas tank to the top, & add 1 T. per gallon. It doesn't have to be exact, it just shouldn't be double or more the correct amount. Then start your mower up, run it for 10 minutes, engagement lever off, just to circulate the Seafoam so it gets into the carburetor.

From everyone I talk to and reading of posts, I don't think it is necessary to have the gas tank full, but it should at least be 2/3 full.
 
The worst thing you can do is to leave untreated, ethanol garbage gas in your tractor for the winter. The advice given by some here to do so is just asking for problems. The fuel will create condensation (water), turn toxic and the ethanol in it will eat away at rubber & carburetor parts.

First off, use the correct amount of Sea Foam (1 T. per gallon) ALL CUTTING SEASON to neutralize the ethanol. Then, when you've done your last cut for the season, figure out (overestimate rather than underestimate) how many gallons it will take to fill the gas tank to the top, & add 1 T. per gallon. It doesn't have to be exact, it just shouldn't be double or more the correct amount. Then start your mower up, run it for 10 minutes, engagement lever off, just to circulate the Seafoam so it gets into the carburetor.

From everyone I talk to and reading of posts, I don't think it is necessary to have the gas tank full, but it should at least be 2/3 full.
Agreed and I only use non ethanol gas in all of my small engines. We can thank our government for the useless benefit of adding corn to our fossil fuel!
 
Twelve pages of endorsement and experience ranging from do nothing to drain, refill with no ethanol fuel and everything in between. It seems the answer lies somewhere. I believe it was Nitche who said something like 'extremes distort the truth, yet provide perspectives for reality.' That sentiment lives on
 
The worst thing you can do is to leave untreated, ethanol garbage gas in your tractor for the winter. The advice given by some here to do so is just asking for problems. The fuel will create condensation (water), turn toxic and the ethanol in it will eat away at rubber & carburetor parts.

First off, use the correct amount of Sea Foam (1 T. per gallon) ALL CUTTING SEASON to neutralize the ethanol. Then, when you've done your last cut for the season, figure out (overestimate rather than underestimate) how many gallons it will take to fill the gas tank to the top, & add 1 T. per gallon. It doesn't have to be exact, it just shouldn't be double or more the correct amount. Then start your mower up, run it for 10 minutes, engagement lever off, just to circulate the Seafoam so it gets into the carburetor.

From everyone I talk to and reading of posts, I don't think it is necessary to have the gas tank full, but it should at least be 2/3 full.
Oh BullSxxx. I have a snowblower that has not been started since I last used it in 2016. I choked it , pulled it 3 times and it ran perfectly. People are so **** about storage of their lawn mowers. Stop spending extra money on these products. If you have and PETROLEUM DISTILLATES or MINERAL SPIRITS, just put a little of either in the tank.
 
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