B&S Valve Adjustment Hiccup (Murphy's law & not a pro)

[StarTech]

I know what Briggs say to do but I am old school. So I just rotate the engine in normal direction until say the cylinder I am adjusting exhaust valve is fully open and the intake is fully closed then adjust the intake and vica versa. When two cylinder I each cylinder the same way. Of course I am not pushed for time as some are. This is I learn to do V-8's before hydraulic lifters; except, on them you could several valves at one time. Just had to pay attention the rocker was exhaust or intake.

 

[oldlawnguy]

NO
So it is off with the head
One of those bore-O-scopes with a grabber on the end might be able to retrieve it but a head gasket would be cheaper .

OK bertsmobile I got a decent bore-o-scope $100 US and did a 350 view of piston and no wood dowel seen. Suspect she may be up by cylinder head (above spark plug hole). The gizmo has a little mirror that I'll try next to see if I can pick up in scope.

I ordered b&s head gasket, valve cover gaskets, intake and exhaust gaskets for $22, got a $20 online discount

If I cannot get wood dowel removed-- Looks like 5 head bolts, intake & outtake screws & loosening bracket control (choke-a-matic) is all holding her in place.

1. Is there an ideal stroke position for valves to be in when removing head?
2. What are the head bolt torque specs (cannot find for my engine) Have seen 220lbs on b&s 110000 series
3. What are the valve cover torque specs? Have seen 55lbs on b&s 110000 series

Would love to get the fastener torque specs for 440000 series, but don't have pro access as a DIYer.

I know rods (steel, aluminum cannot be mixed) up but any other proven methods to use? You successfully guided me through a complete 46cc chainsaw rebuild so I ready to do the work.

Thanks

 

[oldlawnguy]

I know what Briggs say to do but I am old school. So I just rotate the engine in normal direction until say the cylinder I am adjusting exhaust valve is fully open and the intake is fully closed then adjust the intake and vica versa. When two cylinder I each cylinder the same way. Of course I am not pushed for time as some are. This is I learn to do V-8's before hydraulic lifters; except, on them you could several valves at one time. Just had to pay attention the rocker was exhaust or intake.

OK Star old school is fine by me especially if you have done many, many, many times. If the spec is .004/.006 for both intake and exhaust (44000 series spec) would you set the adjustment to .005?

Thanks again

 

[StarTech]

.005 is considered middle of the road adjustment. But on OHV engines I tend to with the lowest clearance by using a go/no go method; otherwords, if .004 is the lowest then if .004 slips in and a .005 don't I consider it set. Just remember to torque set screw or nut a little and recheck the adjustment as the threading will throw off the adjustment as you torque things down. Once satisfied torque the lock to spec.

If doing L-head (side valve) it is the other way around as you set more to the max gap spec.

This is done to condensate for wear.

 

[bertsmobile1]

OK bertsmobile I got a decent bore-o-scope $100 US and did a 350 view of piston and no wood dowel seen. Suspect she may be up by cylinder head (above spark plug hole). The gizmo has a little mirror that I'll try next to see if I can pick up in scope.

I ordered b&s head gasket, valve cover gaskets, intake and exhaust gaskets for $22, got a $20 online discount

If I cannot get wood dowel removed-- Looks like 5 head bolts, intake & outtake screws & loosening bracket control (choke-a-matic) is all holding her in place.

1. Is there an ideal stroke position for valves to be in when removing head?
2. What are the head bolt torque specs (cannot find for my engine) Have seen 220lbs on b&s 110000 series
3. What are the valve cover torque specs? Have seen 55lbs on b&s 110000 series

Would love to get the fastener torque specs for 440000 series, but don't have pro access as a DIYer.

I know rods (steel, aluminum cannot be mixed) up but any other proven methods to use? You successfully guided me through a complete 46cc chainsaw rebuild so I ready to do the work.

Thanks

I don't have the manual with me here
those numbers look about right just remember they are INCH pounds not Foot pounds so divide them by 12 to set your wrench unless you have a big $$$$ aircraft wrench marked in inch pounds
I like to do them at TDC compression stroke because there is no force on the rockers
OTOH if the head does not come off you can put the bolts back in loose remove the exhaust push rod then crank the engine and allow the piston pressure to pop the head
Remove the carb manifold at the head and leave the exhaust in place as the bolts have a habit of breaking
On some mowers that means removing some muffler to frame bolts first

 

[StarTech]

Head Torque

300 lb/in (34.0 Nm)

Intake manifold. Torque screws to 80 in. lbs. .
Cylinder shield > a. Torque 1/4-20 screw to 80 in. lbs. b. Torque #10-24 screw to 45 in. lbs.
Rocker adjustment > Torque jam nut and adjusting screw to 60 in. lbs.
Rocker cover > Torque screws to 100 in. lbs.
Exhaust manifold. > Torque screws or nuts to 140 in. lbs.

 

[oldlawnguy]

I don't have the manual with me here
those numbers look about right just remember they are INCH pounds not Foot pounds so divide them by 12 to set your wrench unless you have a big $$$$ aircraft wrench marked in inch pounds
I like to do them at TDC compression stroke because there is no force on the rockers
OTOH if the head does not come off you can put the bolts back in loose remove the exhaust push rod then crank the engine and allow the piston pressure to pop the head
Remove the carb manifold at the head and leave the exhaust in place as the bolts have a habit of breaking
On some mowers that means removing some muffler to frame bolts first

Yeah I already tested the intake & exhaust manifold bolts and they moved easily. Will use anti seize for ones I loosen and yes exhaust should just lift right out of muffler while attached to head.

I have a 1/4 torque wrench in inch lbs. and a 3/8 in ft lbs.

As a retired engineer (who tinkers and does bonehead 1st time moves) I see your point with compression TDC with both valves closed.

Do you also do the 1/4" piston move down from TDC to compensate for lobe?

Thanks again bertsmobile

 

[oldlawnguy]

Head Torque

300 lb/in (34.0 Nm)

Intake manifold. Torque screws to 80 in. lbs. .
Cylinder shield > a. Torque 1/4-20 screw to 80 in. lbs. b. Torque #10-24 screw to 45 in. lbs.
Rocker adjustment > Torque jam nut and adjusting screw to 60 in. lbs.
Rocker cover > Torque screws to 100 in. lbs.
Exhaust manifold. > Torque screws or nuts to 140 in. lbs.

Thanks StarTech for all the fastener torque specs

I have a 1/4 inch torque wrench that goes up to 200 in lbs. which will cover all of the above except head bolts.

Will use the 3/8 torque wrench in ft lbs and set it to 25 ft lbs (300 in lbs / 12) = 25 ft lbs.

 

[slomo]

If you have one of those that you have to crank the handle to set the torque value, remember to set it back to 0 when you are done. If you leave it on say 50 ft lbs for example, it will throw your wrench out of calibration.

Best to get one of those old school beam style.

 

[StarTech]

Thanks StarTech for all the fastener torque specs

I have a 1/4 inch torque wrench that goes up to 200 in lbs. which will cover all of the above except head bolts.

Will use the 3/8 torque wrench in ft lbs and set it to 25 ft lbs (300 in lbs / 12) = 25 ft lbs.

Do the head torque in three steps per torquing pattern. 1/3, 2/3, and final torque to prevent head warpage.