Cheap Chinses Carb

2ball said:
A couple years ago, I got a free mower with a blown engine. I bought a $150 used engine and I have been running it for the 3rd seasons now. It burns or leaks oil and if I don't use the fuel shout off when I put it away it leaks gas into the oil. I recently with your help figured out which engine I have (31C707-0154-E1).

I feel like I'm just not going to spend $135 on a carb from Briggs and Stratton on what's now an $80 engine.

someone on here said the engine was from 2004. That predates any vehicle engine that I own, it predates Facebook and Gmail.

I think I fixed the oil leak by tightening up the rocker cover, but we will see.

I hear the gas in the oil is a needle and seat issue.

I am feeling like a $20 Chinese carb is in my future.
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Try partstree.com or Adam's mower recycler in Greenwich, ohio. Adams sells used stuff and you really have to see it to believe it. Search on youtube, mowers of every ilk and age, and they go on forever.
 
If someone hasn’t already said it they are all coming from china. Even the B&S is coming from China. (Same plant - who knows?)
I have dealt with the old Sears Parts Direct to get carbs under $20 that went right on without even needing an adjustment. I have bought similar carbs through eBay and Amazon - again around $20 -30 without a hitch. What you won’t find is replacements for the vintage stuff. I have a shelf of old zenith’s just in case.
 
My personal experience has been fine with the Chinese carbs. I've bought two for 2 cycle engines and those I also got the tool to adjust the air screws with. One for a 6 hp Subaru engine for a go kart and one for my riding mower. They all ran fine out of the box. Only one I returned was my fault, it ran fine, but my air filter didn't fit. I hadn't looked at the picture close enough, my bad. Free return on Amazon. If you order off Ebay, you have to pay attention, some sellers have free returns, some don't.

Mine is a small sample, I'm sure the guys that do this for a living have much more experience and are more than capable of rebuilding an ailing carb. I used to drag race and have rebuilt lots of Holley carbs, these small carbs wear my patience thin real quick.
 
2ball said:
Nice thanks for this info. I am having trouble figuring out what Carb I need. The carb was on the used engine when I bought the engine and its still on there.
I have been told that it is a Walbro Carb based on the LTM 4993 stamped on it. I have found a LTM 5-4993 carb. I believe my engine is a 31C707-0154-E1.
Is there enough info yet to figure out what carb I need?

The issue I have right now is when I put it away, I have to turn off the fuel and run it out of gas. If I don't, its very hard to start, and somehow gas leaks into the oil. It will also backfire. To start it I usually use starter fluid so I don't have to let it crank for 30 seconds.
I ran it like that all of last season, but it was a major PITA. Maybe its worth $120 not to have to shut it down like that.

What is the exact OEM carb I need?

9cI221Z.jpg
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Just a thought, but it appears you have a fuel solenoid on the fuel bowl. I've seen these fail and the engine won't start because it's there to stop fuel flow when the ignition is off. However, is it possible that it, somehow someway, failed in the retract position (bent shaft, broken spring) to cause the leaking fuel issues?
 
gamma_ray said:
Just a thought, but it appears you have a fuel solenoid on the fuel bowl. I've seen these fail and the engine won't start because it's there to stop fuel flow when the ignition is off. However, is it possible that it, somehow someway, failed in the retract position (bent shaft, broken spring) to cause the leaking fuel issues?
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No. That not what are designed to do.
 
2ball said:
A couple years ago, I got a free mower with a blown engine. I bought a $150 used engine and I have been running it for the 3rd seasons now. It burns or leaks oil and if I don't use the fuel shout off when I put it away it leaks gas into the oil. I recently with your help figured out which engine I have (31C707-0154-E1).

I feel like I'm just not going to spend $135 on a carb from Briggs and Stratton on what's now an $80 engine.

someone on here said the engine was from 2004. That predates any vehicle engine that I own, it predates Facebook and Gmail.

I think I fixed the oil leak by tightening up the rocker cover, but we will see.

I hear the gas in the oil is a needle and seat issue.

I am feeling like a $20 Chinese carb is in my future.
Click to expand...
Keep the original carb if the engine runs good. Chinese carbs are junk. I recommend putting a fuel shutoff valve in the fuel line and simply turn it off when you're done mowing. If you were having an over-fueling situation while mowing, I would recommend a new inlet needle or carb replacement. But since your issue is just when the machine is sitting, that is the cheapest, simplest cure to this situation. $5-$10 fix.
 
Will1988 said:
Keep the original carb if the engine runs good. Chinese carbs are junk. I recommend putting a fuel shutoff valve in the fuel line and simply turn it off when you're done mowing. If you were having an over-fueling situation while mowing, I would recommend a new inlet needle or carb replacement. But since your issue is just when the machine is sitting, that is the cheapest, simplest cure to this situation. $5-$10 fix.
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I've been using the fuel shut off every time I put it away. I would then run it out of gas. The next start up I would use starter fluid to start it so it didn't have to crank for 30 seconds before the fuel entered the mix. I got ambitious and thought I could fix the flooding issue for $20. At the end of the day I may be able to fix the flooding issue for $8.90, if the needle that arrives tomorrow fixes the flooding.
 
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