Cheap Chinses Carb

Barney56

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A couple years ago, I got a free mower with a blown engine. I bought a $150 used engine and I have been running it for the 3rd seasons now. It burns or leaks oil and if I don't use the fuel shout off when I put it away it leaks gas into the oil. I recently with your help figured out which engine I have (31C707-0154-E1).

I feel like I'm just not going to spend $135 on a carb from Briggs and Stratton on what's now an $80 engine.

someone on here said the engine was from 2004. That predates any vehicle engine that I own, it predates Facebook and Gmail.

I think I fixed the oil leak by tightening up the rocker cover, but we will see.

I hear the gas in the oil is a needle and seat issue.

I am feeling like a $20 Chinese carb is in my future.
I buy and sell small engine powered equipment all the time. Been doing it for the last 40 years. I often times pick up equipment that has had gas in it for so long that the tank is full of rust. I replace the carburetor with a Chinese made piece from either eBay or Amazon, clean or replace the tank, and it’s good to go. I have been using Chinese made carbs for 5 years now, have not had a single problem with any of them. My personal riding mower is a 25 year old Craftsman with a 14.5HP Briggs and Stratton. I put a Chinese carb on it 3 summers ago, still going strong. Often times the Chinese carb is cheaper than a rebuild kit for the original carb.
 

StarTech

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I buy and sell small engine powered equipment all the time. Been doing it for the last 40 years. I often times pick up equipment that has had gas in it for so long that the tank is full of rust. I replace the carburetor with a Chinese made piece from either eBay or Amazon, clean or replace the tank, and it’s good to go. I have been using Chinese made carbs for 5 years now, have not had a single problem with any of them. My personal riding mower is a 25 year old Craftsman with a 14.5HP Briggs and Stratton. I put a Chinese carb on it 3 summers ago, still going strong. Often times the Chinese carb is cheaper than a rebuild kit for the original carb.
Then you have been very very lucky as nearly every one I have ran into have had problems right out the box and required mods to get them to even half way work right.
 

skiman

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I've been repairing mowers for almost 50 years...the last 20 years ive been using the aftermarket chinese carbs for briggs...either the nikki or walbro style with maybe 2 issues over 200 carbs...OEM gets 4 markups before its sold to you...briggs buys almost all ov their carbs in china now...the markups go this way...briggs arranges to buy a lot of carbs for distribution...they add a markup on top of the buying from the OEM...then sell it to the distributors who mark it up for sale to the dealers who mark it up for sale to you...4 markup from the original suppliers...ill keep buying the aftermarket and save my customers a lot of money...
 

slomo

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On all mower engines that I can fit them, I install a fuel filter and a shutoff valve inline to the carb.

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StarTech

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I've been repairing mowers for almost 50 years...the last 20 years ive been using the aftermarket chinese carbs for briggs...either the nikki or walbro style with maybe 2 issues over 200 carbs...OEM gets 4 markups before its sold to you...briggs buys almost all ov their carbs in china now...the markups go this way...briggs arranges to buy a lot of carbs for distribution...they add a markup on top of the buying from the OEM...then sell it to the distributors who mark it up for sale to the dealers who mark it up for sale to you...4 markup from the original suppliers...ill keep buying the aftermarket and save my customers a lot of money...
As I said you have been lucky or I have been aweful unlucky. Nearly every one I have tried including cubes all were screwy.

Either way I very seldom ever needed to replace a carburetor in the last 13 yrs. Most I clean and repair.
 

Gord Baker

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The only way fuel can get into the Crankcase is from the Carb. A spec of dirt at the needle/seat interface is all it takes.
The fuel Shutoff valve may not be getting power or is defective. You should be able to feel/hear it click when slowly turning the key ON.

It is usually possible to remove the float/needle without removing the Carb. Examine the needle. If it is a rubber (Viton) tip don't damage it, wipe it clean. Let a rush of fuel come through the seat area before reinstalling. Do NOT press the float up by hand. That can damage needle and/or seat. It is a simple matter to see if the Fuel Shut off solenoid is working. No tools required.
The simple and positive solution is to install a Fuel Line shutoff Valve and remember to use it. Shut it Off 20 seconds before you are done with the mower.
 

Hammermechanicman

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I buy and sell small engine powered equipment all the time. Been doing it for the last 40 years. I often times pick up equipment that has had gas in it for so long that the tank is full of rust. I replace the carburetor with a Chinese made piece from either eBay or Amazon, clean or replace the tank, and it’s good to go. I have been using Chinese made carbs for 5 years now, have not had a single problem with any of them. My personal riding mower is a 25 year old Craftsman with a 14.5HP Briggs and Stratton. I put a Chinese carb on it 3 summers ago, still going strong. Often times the Chinese carb is cheaper than a rebuild kit for the original carb.

I have had very good luck with the cheap honda style carbs. I have had 0 success with Kohler ebay carbs. They have always been jetted wrong.
 

2ball

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The only way fuel can get into the Crankcase is from the Carb. A spec of dirt at the needle/seat interface is all it takes.
The fuel Shutoff valve may not be getting power or is defective. You should be able to feel/hear it click when slowly turning the key ON.

It is usually possible to remove the float/needle without removing the Carb. Examine the needle. If it is a rubber (Viton) tip don't damage it, wipe it clean. Let a rush of fuel come through the seat area before reinstalling. Do NOT press the float up by hand. That can damage needle and/or seat. It is a simple matter to see if the Fuel Shut off solenoid is working. No tools required.
The simple and positive solution is to install a Fuel Line shutoff Valve and remember to use it. Shut it Off 20 seconds before you are done with the mower.
My needle was bad, currently there is no tip on it. I ordered a new one. I hear the solenoid click.
I put in a fuel shutoff and I have been using that for the past 2 seasons. I was hoping to not have to go through the process of shutting off the fuel, letting it run out of gas and having a harder start up. Maybe I don't have to let it run out of gas, just turn off the fuel.
 
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