Lawn Boy z340 zero turn parts/repairs HELP!

To purge many systems you may have to go through the purge sequence 10-12 times. I’ve had ones that took me 2-3 hours, working it back & forth. Even had one which I had to let it sit overnight and start over the next day. You have to be extremely lucky to do one in less than an hour.
 
Rivets said:
To purge many systems you may have to go through the purge sequence 10-12 times. I’ve had ones that took me 2-3 hours, working it back & forth. Even had one which I had to let it sit overnight and start over the next day. You have to be extremely lucky to do one in less than an hour.
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Same as Rivets
In extreme cases I have made a plug to fit in the filling port and connected it to the sump pump the encourage the air to come out.
I had a Rider Pro here one time that took several days to purge and 2 full tanks of fuel.

Then engine must be turning as SLOW as possible
This prevents the oil foaming
When you have done the bypass valve open ( purges the pump ) purges and switch to bypass valve closed, use your foot to try & stop the wheel turning
If your foot slows the wheels movement, it has not purged so keep on doing it .
 
bertsmobile1 said:
Same as Rivets
In extreme cases I have made a plug to fit in the filling port and connected it to the sump pump the encourage the air to come out.
I had a Rider Pro here one time that took several days to purge and 2 full tanks of fuel.

Then engine must be turning as SLOW as possible
This prevents the oil foaming
When you have done the bypass valve open ( purges the pump ) purges and switch to bypass valve closed, use your foot to try & stop the wheel turning
If your foot slows the wheels movement, it has not purged so keep on doing it .
Click to expand...
Thanks to both of you guys! Ill try that out asap. I had no idea it could take that long. The hydrogear manual is pretty vague with the purging process. Like I said before, the manual says to check the oil and refill as needed when necessary during the purging process. Do you guys have any tips on checking or adding oil without dropping the trans back down? Is there a way to attatch an external reservoir to each side to fill and check? One last question, can you over fill the hydro with oil? Will it damage anything besides maybe spitting some extra oil out of the breather tube? The only way I can see adding more oil w/o dropping the unit back down would be to pour down the breather hose but still no way to check the level
 
FWIW
I measure out the stated quantity of oil & put that amount in
At worse there will be a small over fill as you can never get 100% of the old oil out .
The manual covers a lot of variations on the basic theme
Some will have overlfow reseviours & / or dipsticks and some won't .
It all depends what features the customer specified and of course, each extra add to the cost and trying you to pay an extra $ 50 because this model has an overflow is not an easy task when 99% of customers just want cheap .
 
bertsmobile1 said:
FWIW
I measure out the stated quantity of oil & put that amount in
At worse there will be a small over fill as you can never get 100% of the old oil out .
The manual covers a lot of variations on the basic theme
Some will have overlfow reseviours & / or dipsticks and some won't .
It all depends what features the customer specified and of course, each extra add to the cost and trying you to pay an extra $ 50 because this model has an overflow is not an easy task when 99% of customers just want cheap .
Click to expand...
Is there any danger in overfilling other than some coming out of the overflow hose? How much could the oil level possibly drop when purging? The manual said to fill to where the level is 3/4" to 1½" from the top of the fill hole.
 
Update: I purged the system more and it seemed to do better. I've never driven this thing in perfect working condition so it's hard to tell what it's supposed to operate like but it is SLOW, at least compared to our commercial grade Ferris that's only a few years old. The right side is close to being even in overall speed. It holds more of a straight line than before I did anything to it. I began mowing a small piece of lawn and it did decent for about 5 minutes going up and down a small incline until the right side just flat out quit again. With the mower still running, I peeked under at the belts, pullys, and fans to see that the right side fan was not spinning at all when the belt was moving. I don't know if when belts get warmed up, they expand and stretch out while in use, but it appears that the cause of this could maybe just need a new tensioner spring. I'm going to run to the store to look for some and will post an update after.
 
So I bought new springs, still having the same issue. I pulled the clutch and belts out and switched the right side belt over to the left and left side to the right to hopefully find out that the new belt I bought for the right side was the wrong size but it's not. I'm still having the same issue with the belt being loose on the right side. Again, the tensioner has the belt slammed as far as it will go. So I'd say it's safe to assume that the belts and springs can be ruled out. I've never been this stumped in my life. Anyone have any suggestions? Should I just get a generic belt that's slightly smaller for that side?
 
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