Husqvarna YTH2042 Valve Adjustment Issue

V

vern66

Member
I have followed the procedure for adjusting the Valves (several -actually many times) but the engine continues to not turn over due to compression build up. Need to know what may be the next most logical thing to check. Basic procedure was to remove valve cover and spark plug, turn engine clockwise to the point that indicated the piston is at the top (using a dowel inserted in the spark plug hole) -- then rotate clockwise for a 1/4 inch lowering of the piston top -- then adjust valves using feeler gage (5-7 thousands for Exhaust valve) and (3-5 thousands for the Intake valve.

Any suggestions would be helpful and appreciated.
 
vern66 said:
I have followed the procedure for adjusting the Valves (several -actually many times) but the engine continues to not turn over due to compression build up. Need to know what may be the next most logical thing to check. Basic procedure was to remove valve cover and spark plug, turn engine clockwise to the point that indicated the piston is at the top (using a dowel inserted in the spark plug hole) -- then rotate clockwise for a 1/4 inch lowering of the piston top -- then adjust valves using feeler gage (5-7 thousands for Exhaust valve) and (3-5 thousands for the Intake valve.

Any suggestions would be helpful and appreciated.
Click to expand...


Single cylinder?

Bad connection/corrosion at battery
wire can be bad inside terminal
battery bad...can even show good volatage
solenoid bad

Try jump starting with another battery to verify
 
shiftsuper175607 said:
Single cylinder?

Bad connection/corrosion at battery
wire can be bad inside terminal
battery bad...can even show good volatage
solenoid bad

Try jump starting with another battery to verify
Click to expand...

Many thanks for your reply with comments:

.. No corrosion and fresh charged battery. Also, have used booster battery and charger booster with same results.
With sparkplug removed, it runs the engine very fast.
It appears there is no proper compression release.
This issue started (yesterday) during mowing after cutting the back yard (1.0 to 1.5 hours running) then on the second round of the front yard, the engine started to run ruff and then immediately stopped. I used another riding mower to tow it to the shop.

So far, I have not removed the head to check condition of valves, etc.

My Regards, Vern
 
vern66 said:
Many thanks for your reply with comments:

.. No corrosion and fresh charged battery. Also, have used booster battery and charger booster with same results.
With sparkplug removed, it runs the engine very fast.
It appears there is no proper compression release.
This issue started (yesterday) during mowing after cutting the back yard (1.0 to 1.5 hours running) then on the second round of the front yard, the engine started to run ruff and then immediately stopped. I used another riding mower to tow it to the shop.

So far, I have not removed the head to check condition of valves, etc.

My Regards, Vern
Click to expand...

Greetings Vern... I have came across your issue a few times in my shop and very many times on this forum.......

By the way you explain it It seems like your cam. Either your cam broke Cutting grass and engine running fine at one time, do you have compression ?? No need to pull the head just take the valve cover or covers off and check the rocker arm travel.. See if both are moving the same travel length, could be a valve seat or guide in the head... If you lost your lost your ACR auto comp release on your cam during mowing it should have fell to the sump base with no ill effects to the crank shaft, well most of the time anyway. What do you mean by RUN OFF?? revved up real fast then engine stopped ?? My dad always said a engine won't die on you in the garage and a outboard engine won't go out on you in your driveway it's gonna die on you in the open water somewhere, I am betting a whole .25 cents you have a Briggs on your mower.......

What is your model number ??? and make of the engine ?? BTW it's not your battery or connections.....

Let us know Mon Ami..........
 
Boudreaux In Eunice La. said:
Greetings Vern... I have came across your issue a few times in my shop and very many times on this forum.......

By the way you explain it It seems like your cam. Either your cam broke Cutting grass and engine running fine at one time, do you have compression ?? No need to pull the head just take the valve cover or covers off and check the rocker arm travel.. See if both are moving the same travel length, could be a valve seat or guide in the head... If you lost your lost your ACR auto comp release on your cam during mowing it should have fell to the sump base with no ill effects to the crank shaft, well most of the time anyway. What do you mean by RUN OFF?? revved up real fast then engine stopped ?? My dad always said a engine won't die on you in the garage and a outboard engine won't go out on you in your driveway it's gonna die on you in the open water somewhere, I am betting a whole .25 cents you have a Briggs on your mower.......

What is your model number ??? and make of the engine ?? BTW it's not your battery or connections.....

Let us know Mon Ami..........
Click to expand...


Below is Engine Numbers:
Husqvarna Model YTH2042 42 inch Mower Engind ID

Mower Serial Number: 120710A001193


Briggs & Stratton Engine 20 HP (one Cylinder)
Model 331777 2372
Type G1
Serial No 101102ZD

What do you mean by RUN OFF??

That is another of my tying mistakes. It should have been "started to run ROUGH somewhat like if not getting fuel or choke being applied, then died rather quickly.

I am going to re-check everything again but I have had both push rods out and both look normal. When spark plug is removed, then switch on. both the intake and exhaust valves appear to have the proper movement and travel distance.

There is no apparent lodged item since (turning by hand) there are no apparent stops or lodging against something. Of course, at the points of compression build up, it is harder to turn. This engine appears to have very good(high) compression even though I have not done a metered compression test.

If there is part of the compression release device broke (from the cam shaft gear I assume) then is there a FIX for this without "breaking the engine apart" to replace whatever is broke.

Note: I have two Husqvarna mowers and have gained some helpful experience by a lot of work on the other mower which was considered to be completely non repairable. Thankfully, I did NOT have to separate that engine to get it repaired and working well.

I appreciate your help

My Regards, Vern....
 
If it is the ACR broken on the cam then yes you will have to split the engine. Don't worry it's a easy fix. The hardest part of the job is to take the engine off the mower......

I will find you a video for you to watch so you can watch it step by step............. Something is nagging at me saying it's your ACR then again somethings nagging at me saying it's something easier..

I wish I was there in front of the mower ............
 
Boudreaux In Eunice La. said:
If it is the ACR broken on the cam then yes you will have to split the engine. Don't worry it's a easy fix. The hardest part of the job is to take the engine off the mower......

I will find you a video for you to watch so you can watch it step by step............. Something is nagging at me saying it's your ACR then again somethings nagging at me saying it's something easier..

I wish I was there in front of the mower ............
Click to expand...


After reading your previous reply, I decided that based on your comments that it must be something broke inside the engine relating to the fact that it did not work properly regardless of the MANY times I made the valve settings and with some variations in adjustments to see if that would find a "sweet spot" -- but NO luck.

I came from the Shop to get a cold drink after removing the Engine from the mower and on the bench "Operating Table" split apart. There is a loose (Broken) part inside but I didn't get to check for where it came from before my needed cold drink.

Yes, it is a pain in the rear getting all the different things disconnected properly to be able to remove the Engine -- but I finally got it out and split apart. My Wife asked if I lifted the engine -- and said my injured back will never heal if I don't quit lifting heavy items such as the engine.

Next, I will try to find where the broken piece came from.
I of course will need to order parts (and gaskets) as needed to re-assemble it.

I am not aware of how to attach a picture or I would send one. The piece is about 1 1/2 inch long, 1/4 inch thick, and shaped slightly like a "half moon" . It has several obvious "banged up" areas on it.
I expect it was attached to the shaft of the Cam Shaft unit but not certain yet.

Again, many thanks for your help\

Vern....
 
vern66 said:
After reading your previous reply, I decided that based on your comments that it must be something broke inside the engine relating to the fact that it did not work properly regardless of the MANY times I made the valve settings and with some variations in adjustments to see if that would find a "sweet spot" -- but NO luck.

I came from the Shop to get a cold drink after removing the Engine from the mower and on the bench "Operating Table" split apart. There is a loose (Broken) part inside but I didn't get to check for where it came from before my needed cold drink.

Yes, it is a pain in the rear getting all the different things disconnected properly to be able to remove the Engine -- but I finally got it out and split apart. My Wife asked if I lifted the engine -- and said my injured back will never heal if I don't quit lifting heavy items such as the engine.

Next, I will try to find where the broken piece came from.
I of course will need to order parts (and gaskets) as needed to re-assemble it.

I am not aware of how to attach a picture or I would send one. The piece is about 1 1/2 inch long, 1/4 inch thick, and shaped slightly like a "half moon" . It has several obvious "banged up" areas on it.
I expect it was attached to the shaft of the Cam Shaft unit but not certain yet.

Again, many thanks for your help\

Vern....
Click to expand...


I viewed the Camshaft (that was a large and detailed picture) on one of the internet sites and the broken part came from the Camshaft main rod right next to the large (4 1/8 inch) gear. Appears that the attachment method was not very strong.

I didn't have a chance to view "specifically" how the Camshaft was inserted since it came apart somewhat abruptly.
Is there a specific alignment for this gear for a new Camshaft -- I don't want to re-assemble with it inserted wrong and result in an "out of time" or other malfunction.

Vern....
 
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