HRC2163HXA MAKA 1094141 Blade Clutch Assembly Bolt Torque Specs

Koamolly said:
On a sort of related note... What does SUP and PRI stand for in the Honda parts break down description?
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SUP = superceded to a different part number
PRI = previous part number before being superceded

You can order either and will get the most current part.

FYI, numbers can change when supplier change, colors, or other changes that do no affect the fit or performance of the part.
 
Thanks Robert.

I just ordered the shop manual. I've had an HRC216 hydrostatic drive since they first came out about twenty years ago. It's still going strong but is really beat up and rusted. I came across a good deal on this lightly used current one I asked about and couldn't pass it up. It looks brand new except underneath as some surface rust. The blade clutch made a momentary high pitch squeal when first engage for the first three or four engagements. I took it apart cleaned everything and sanded a bit of rust off the spring and now no more squealing.

One final question. The pads on the drive disc have tiny cracks. Is that normal? I am going to replace it, but maybe they all get that way. Just curious.

Thanks again for the quick responses.
 
Koamolly said:
One final question. The pads on the drive disc have tiny cracks. Is that normal? I am going to replace it, but maybe they all get that way. Just curious.
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The driven disk has some concentric groves, but cranks/breaks in the linings are not normal. Provided the lining thickness is no less that 4.5mm, and the Roto-Stop operates normally, not a problem. Typically, you'll notice slow or incomplete clutch operation (blade won't engage or slips) that indicate a lining has worn out or is below the service limit thickness.
 
robert@honda said:
That is a 10 x 25 mm hex bolt; Honda says to use a normal torque, which is 29 ft-lbs. (39 N瀕).

Ideally, you should use a strap wrench to hold the flywheel. I recall you may also be able to temporarily fit the blades and their bolts into place, then used a 2 x 4 or other block of wood stuffed into the discharge to hold the crankshaft in place...
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Just to clarify for accuracy in the future. I just Recieved the shop manual and the correct torque for that bolt is 40 ft-lb, same as the blade bolts.
 
Koamolly said:
Just to clarify for accuracy in the future. I just Recieved the shop manual and the correct torque for that bolt is 40 ft-lb, same as the blade bolts.
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You are correct; I was looking at the Removal page in the Shop Manual, and no special torque for the 10 x 25mm bolt is listed there, but it is indeed called out at 40 ft-lbs on the Installation page. My mistake. :ashamed:
 
I looked at this site to find out how to tighten up the central 10 x 12mm bolt ( ref 90105-VA3-J01)at the bottom end of the crankshaft and under the cutting blade. With the blade removed I had to replace the central bolt and found when trying to tighten it, that the whole assembly revolved. No good suggestion on the site was found to stop this rotation. It then occurred to me that at the other end of the crankshaft is the hand starter assembly. Remove this assembly from the top of the engine cover and there is a large nut on the top end of the crankshaft. Using socket spanners of the correct size for the different bolt and nut sizes, you can tighten up the central bolt at the clutch end.

My owner manual for my Honda HRB 475 gives the torque setting as 5 to 6 kg.m

The wood block reference, is stop the cutting blade rotating when tightening the two blade bolts. These bolts are shorter than the central bolt.

This response is long after the original question but it may help fresh enquiries as mine was.
 
  1. Mounting bolt torque to be minimum of:
    3/8"-24 UNF use Grade 8 bolt torqued to 40/45 lb.-ft. (Grade 5 bolt is unacceptable)
    7/16"-20 UNF Grade 5 or 8 bolt torqued to 50-55 lb.-ft. (Grade 5 or 8 bolt is acceptable)
    M 10 X 1.50 Class 10.9 torqued to 55-60 N-m.
 
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