What do to about my 13 year old lawn ? Compacted soil ? Fungus ? Old age ?

I normally put gypsum down on the entire lawn once a year to soften the ground this lets the roots grow easier and the water soaks into the ground better.
 
LazerZLandscaping said:
Yeah, how is your lawn?
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The lawn is the best it has been in over ten years. I've also allowed the blades to be longer, perhaps 2". Thanks for asking. The remaining areas which are less than perfect are because the soil is dense in this exact areas. But these areas comprise maybe 5% of surface area. Will keep drilling once a month.

How often to apply gypsum ?
 
MowerMark said:
The lawn is the best it has been in over ten years. I've also allowed the blades to be longer, perhaps 2". Thanks for asking. The remaining areas which are less than perfect are because the soil is dense in this exact areas. But these areas comprise maybe 5% of surface area. Will keep drilling once a month.

How often to apply gypsum ?
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Nice! So turn over those dead patches and replant. Early fall is the perfect time to do it.
 
Retiredcarguy said:
Nice! So turn over those dead patches and replant. Early fall is the perfect time to do it.
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Did a few places six months ago. Replanted the remaining few areas wouldn't help unless the soil were to be modified. Another reason to be opposed to replanting is that often the level is too high or too low. When mowing, the inequality is noteworthy.
 
My front yard of 1/3 acre grass went downhill over the last several years. We get 70 inches here and only July/August are hot. This is the 10th year and the front yard died out and was overtaken by weeds. The back yard is shaded and treated the same and is fair to good. So I suspect heat and lack of water in Jul-Aug for the front...But wait, never using lime I went to a testing service and found the pH at 4.7 which is too acidic. The service calculated that to bring the lawn up to recommended level of 5.9 will require over 1 ton of lime to be administered over 2 years. I did not test the back 1 acre, but "assume" the same. The testing also revealed extremely high potassium ( I had been dutifully putting a dry fertilizere on with 12%). The lab was not concerned about the potassium. So I figure I need 1 ton in back also.

You can buy litmus paper kits to test for pH, but they are not accurate. Next, you can spend $100+ on meters which must be calibrated. So I went to the lab ($50). Universities here no longer do free testing. The benefit of proper pH is that it frees nutrients up so grass can consume them. I have rototilled the 1/3acre (bronco tiller), and found it very hard compact also, so water alone is not the mechanism. Acidic soil here is due to heavy rain leaching out magnesium and calcium. BTW surfur promotes more acidic soil. I don't think you should guess, but am glad you have had success. :2cents:
 
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