A little Flywheel help on older jacobsen snow blower.

Fortunately no, I haven't broken any, but in hind sight and from what I've been told by an experienced Jake mechanic, I consider myself lucky that I haven't. I suppose I could have mentioned the advise I'd gotten from the mechanic earlier. Like you said in an earlier post, it looks like it could be tapped and threaded, and I did do just that with the first one of mine I did. I got it off, but can say first hand looking back that it was much more of a struggle to do than the method outlined in the manual, and through conversations with that Jake mechanic on another forum, (Smokstak) I was told that I had been very lucky I hadn't broken anything and also told by him not to pry on them. Like snowy weather noted, there is very little gap between the flywheel and the block, additionally, that "flange", for lack of a better name right now,around the outside of the flywheel is fairly thin and has a lip on it. That flange would be much easier to break than the flywheel.
 
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A coupler nut , like what they sell for all-threads would be great, but I never can find them in fine thread. I do have three Tecumseh knockers that fit most of these older
engines. You have the pages out of the manual how to do it, I would however, go to a good hardware store and find a nut of the same size with a flange on it, so you can thread it fully on the shaft, not all the way down, and rap on a socket on the nut while holding the flywheel.
 
I went to pull a tecumseh flywheel with a puller once took 2turns before the thing crumbled haha I don't recommend a jaw puller doesn't look like you can use a flywheel puller here without drilling those spots out. If it were me I would see about using a few pieces of flat steel and 2 hydrolic bottle jacks lift it from under the flywheel and carefully tap the engine down with some pb blaster
 
DON'T drill it!! Those "spots" are or balancing. If you drill it,you cold hit the coils if they are internal. Some were,and some were outside. Use a knocker,and tap it smartly,while holding the flywheel.
 
exotion said:
I went to pull a tecumseh flywheel with a puller once took 2turns before the thing crumbled haha I don't recommend a jaw puller doesn't look like you can use a flywheel puller here without drilling those spots out. If it were me I would see about using a few pieces of flat steel and 2 hydrolic bottle jacks lift it from under the flywheel and carefully tap the engine down with some pb blaster
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u dont put 300 pounds of pressure on it lol
 
briggs said:
u dont put 300 pounds of pressure on it lol
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Well ya this was a few years ago. Who knew aluminum can be so brittle :o now like I said I usually lift the machine by the flywheel and tap the flywheel bolt a few times usually loosens it up enough to work it off. Unless they have puller holes than you simple bolt the puller into the holes and use a impact drill to pull her off
 
It doesn't need a hard hit,from any type of hammer,to crack the flywheel on a JACOBSEN.
They haven't been made since 1983.
Parts are nearly impossible to get(depending on the part),so err on the side of caution,and follow the manual !
 
jhngardner367 said:
It doesn't need a hard hit,from any type of hammer,to crack the flywheel on a JACOBSEN.
They haven't been made since 1983.
Parts are nearly impossible to get(depending on the part),so err on the side of caution,and follow the manual !
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very good advice!!!
 
Good job gentlemen,:thumbsup:

your advice worked like a charm :smile:....I stop by a hardware store purchased a couple of fine thread couplers and a small pvc/rubber mallet. I'm not sure why I thought I saw a clip on the end of crank?:confused3: (some times I do over complicate things) But all it took was to tightened the coupler down a little on the end of the crank, then.... tap the coupler, wiggle flywheel, tap, wiggle, repeat a few and off it came, with no clip as you can see from pic,...hmmm go figure, maybe I need another eye exam. :laughing:


Thank you all for advice.

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