Engine Synthetic oil

[BWH]

I was meaning to add my experiences with hydraulic oil I am in the electric utility field we have had to deal with slow operations in sub zero temperatures over the years in basket trucks. A good number of years after we gave up on aircraft fluids in the hydraulic systems due to the lack of lubercation in the pumps we switched to synthetic hydraulic oil, it was not as good as the aircraft fluids but pumps were too expensive to replace plus the synthetic was twice as flowable and if you can imagine 70 foot of hose going up the boom and 70 foot going down would make the boom extreemly slow.

The accidental find in this case was the great properties of this oil in extreem heat. If you have never been around a basket truck you have no idea how hot the circulating oil at 3500psi can get! Put it this way a hydraulic impact gun running at the boom tip on a 95dg. day is to hot to hold onto using peterolum oil but using synthetic it is still fairly warm but the impact tool is usable wearing gloves. I am told by the tech's in the hydraulic shop its all about friction. Just my observations for what their worth.

 

[Tseg]

OK guys, I know this topic is near and dear, but...Ric is right IMO, synthetic is wasted money except in extremely cold operation. You are not turning 10,000 rpm. One thing I believe is that running a THIN oil is best to avoid wear at start- up. If any of you are brave enough go on line to "ferarri chat" and read the oil guru's stuff (if you can) . He then offers a test almost no one can pass on the material he has just offered. You will feel HUMBLE afterwards. It is a major, and complex topic.

I think most ac tractor engines will "use" more e.g. 5w-30 than 30w, so you do have to watch more carefully. Flame suit is on. :laughing:

Several things... a multigrade xW-zz where W= Winter, or cold fluid pumpability and the zz designates hot fluid viscosity. So you are correct a thinner (smaller) W number will help with cold startup and reduce wear because the oil will circulate to moving parts quicker. But the viscosity number (zz) indicates hot fluid film thickness, which generally indicates better protection the bigger number it is. I happen to use Mobil 1 0W-40... excellent cold weather start-up and great hot engine protection. Certainly Mobil 1 0W-30 is likely just as good as my manual recommends using a 30 weight oil. I'm sacrificing a bit of fuel economy for I what believe to be better protection. What you don't want to do is use a viscosity less than the manufacturer recommends, like using a 5w-20 when a 5w-30 is recommended. Why? Because the viscosity required is usually based on the tolerances of the metal components inside. Using a 20 weight oil in a 30 weight recommended engine risks metal on metal wear because the tolerances are wider than the oil film.

Motor Oil:

- Lubricates
- Protects
- Cleans deposit
- Suspends dirt
- Cools
- Inhibits Rust

A good motor oil, like a synthetic, does all these things better and longer. A conventional oil does all these things but to do as good as a synthetic you may have to change the oil every 3rd time you start the mower. If you have an engine for 5 years and it starts and sounds just like it did on day 1 and you only changed the fluid once a year using conventional oil, hey, keep doing it. For me, the $5 - $10 extra i may pay per year for a synthetic oil so I can sleep at night and not worry when I last changed it, knowing my engine runs like new, makes it all worth it.

 

[transportation812]

I just changed my John Deere to Amsoil. I have run it in my Toyota Tacoma pickup for the past 6 years.

 

[TnHusky]

Again as already stated, heat is the main problem for breakdown. I have always run Pennzoil 30wt in my older Briggs with no filter and put probably 500 hrs on that motor with no problem. The newer engines with the emissions crap are running leaner and hotter so I'm going Syn this time just for heat issue's.
By the way I run Amsoil in my Harley for 22,000 miles with no problems.

 

[RTMower]

We put Amsoil Small Engine oil in everything we sell and/or service. We believe in using the best products available for our customers. We also use Amsoil in our car and our diesel truck. Highly recommend synthetic.

 

[Mike D]

In the 1950's when gasoline powered lawn mowers for home use entered the market, 30 wt. oil was required. The rule of thumb was - air cooled engines must use straight grade ( 30 wt. ) oils only. The only exception was for snow blowing equipment ( which was used in winter only ). The reason was that air cooled engines had hot spots on the cylinder head that would quickly break down the VI ( viscosity improvers ) components of the motor oil. Since most 10w30 motor oils were 10 wt. oils with about 8 - 10% VI chemicals. For a water cooled engine, a 10w30 motor oil means the oil would be fluid ( a pourable liquid ) at - 30 F ( for easy cranking and starting in the winter ) and contained the lubricating properties of a 30 wt. oil at normal engine temperatures ( 190 - 220 F ).
That being said, many newer higher horsepower 18 hp and higher recommend 10w30 oil. Apparently a larger oil sump and pressurized lubrication keep the air cooled engines from forming hot spots. I do recommend the use of a full synthetic ( any premium brand ) 10w30. The components of a full synthetic oil can better tolerate shock loads, oxidation and hot spots.

 

[Fish]

Ah, it is not late winter, wrong time of year for a lusty synthetic fight.........

 

[phcaan]

Several things... a multigrade xW-zz where W= Winter, or cold fluid pumpability and the zz designates hot fluid viscosity. So you are correct a thinner (smaller) W number will help with cold startup and reduce wear because the oil will circulate to moving parts quicker. But the viscosity number (zz) indicates hot fluid film thickness, which generally indicates better protection the bigger number it is. I happen to use Mobil 1 0W-40... excellent cold weather start-up and great hot engine protection. Certainly Mobil 1 0W-30 is likely just as good as my manual recommends using a 30 weight oil. I'm sacrificing a bit of fuel economy for I what believe to be better protection. What you don't want to do is use a viscosity less than the manufacturer recommends, like using a 5w-20 when a 5w-30 is recommended. Why? Because the viscosity required is usually based on the tolerances of the metal components inside. Using a 20 weight oil in a 30 weight recommended engine risks metal on metal wear because the tolerances are wider than the oil film.

Motor Oil:

- Lubricates
- Protects
- Cleans deposit
- Suspends dirt
- Cools
- Inhibits Rust

A good motor oil, like a synthetic, does all these things better and longer. A conventional oil does all these things but to do as good as a synthetic you may have to change the oil every 3rd time you start the mower. If you have an engine for 5 years and it starts and sounds just like it did on day 1 and you only changed the fluid once a year using conventional oil, hey, keep doing it. For me, the $5 - $10 extra i may pay per year for a synthetic oil so I can sleep at night and not worry when I last changed it, knowing my engine runs like new, makes it all worth it.

I just purchased a used Husqvarna GTH27V52LS with 38 hours on it. I would like to start using Synthetic oil but have been told I should put more hours on it before I switch. Any thoughts?

 

[motoman]

Well, if you MUST spend extra for synthetic here is a flash from good ole wal mart. Wife's german car warranty says Mobil 1 which has cost $8-$9 per quart for years. Suddenly the 5 qt bottle is $23. GO, BUY, GO , BUY. Don't know why the drastic drop in price.

 

[phcaan]

Well, if you MUST spend extra for synthetic here is a flash from good ole wal mart. Wife's german car warranty says Mobil 1 which has cost $8-$9 per quart for years. Suddenly the 5 qt bottle is $23. GO, BUY, GO , BUY. Don't know why the drastic drop in price.

Thank You, This will be the last mower I will ever purchase, and yes I must go synthetic. This is also the newest mower I have ever purchased.