Engine Synthetic oil

[KennyV]

Can I get into this and ask a question? Which is better; regular oil or synth? Multi weight or straight?

Multi Viscosity is going to be best...
You will never regret the added lubrication properties you will get from a good Synthetic... :smile:KennyV

 

[Ric]

Anyone using synthetic oil? Good idea?

Good Idea? Bad Idea? My suggestion would be to do and use what the Manufacturer recommends. Most Manufacturers will recommend a detergent oil (API service SF, SG, SH,SJ,or SL) and most recommend a viscosity of a SAE. 10w30 but it's up to you.

Personally I feel like Synthetic oil is a waste of money in a lawn mower. The thing is your mower is not a car that you can extend your oil changes from 3 to 15000 miles between changes or change oil once a year.

The oil in your mower needs to be changed at 50 hours regardless of the type you use and synthetic oil at 50 hrs will be just as dirty as regular oil at 50 hrs so I figure why double and sometimes triple my cost for oil just because it's synthetic.

 

[Tater]

Can I get into this and ask a question? Which is better; regular oil or synth? Multi weight or straight? Always thought multi weight was for use with hydraulic engines and straight weight was for solid lifters. Some of you pro's unconfuse me..

Shouldn't you go with what your engine manual states...??? That said, I think very few recommend a streight weight anymore, I think Synthetic is better now than dino, but I'm no expert...
Have a good one...Tater...

 

[blueguy]

Synthetic is waxy and much better to manage when cleaning up at oil change time. You don't smell it on your hands two days later.

 

[Ric]

I found this video on youtube. Eric the car guy, he seems to know or be knowledgeable about the subject of Synthetic oil. Maybe we should listen to his info and use it for our next oil changes on our mowers???

 

[T J Blazek]

I went back by the dealer to pickup my 3 free blades; and went back and talked to the Service Manager and asked him the same question. I can quote: " If iwe sold it and it has a Kawasaki motor on it; we replace it with 30wt (Penzoil). Everything else gets 10w30. If we didn't sell it; we ask?" Since my first change is free; I know what I will get. Not too impressed with the brand; I normially use Castrol..

 

[Ric]

I went back by the dealer to pickup my 3 free blades; and went back and talked to the Service Manager and asked him the same question. I can quote: " If iwe sold it and it has a Kawasaki motor on it; we replace it with 30wt (Penzoil). Everything else gets 10w30. If we didn't sell it; we ask?" Since my first change is free; I know what I will get. Not too impressed with the brand; I normially use Castrol..

I thought they came with oil from the factory and are supposed to be changed at something like 8 Hours on the Kawasaki, hours on the Kohler that's what my manual says. I always use 10w30 Mobil 5000.

 

[Tseg]

Certainly I use Mobil 1 in my snowblower to aide in cold weather starts (-55F flowability). But considering I use less than 1/2 of a quart in my Honda mower engine, I can afford the couple of dollar investment knowing I can take it through the season and my engine will always stay in mint condition on the inside.

:thumbsup:

 

[motoman]

OK guys, I know this topic is near and dear, but...Ric is right IMO, synthetic is wasted money except in extremely cold operation. You are not turning 10,000 rpm. One thing I believe is that running a THIN oil is best to avoid wear at start- up. If any of you are brave enough go on line to "ferarri chat" and read the oil guru's stuff (if you can) . He then offers a test almost no one can pass on the material he has just offered. You will feel HUMBLE afterwards. It is a major, and complex topic.

I think most ac tractor engines will "use" more e.g. 5w-30 than 30w, so you do have to watch more carefully. Flame suit is on. :laughing:

 

[BWH]

Briggs & Stratton Vangard V-Twin manuals indicate the use of straight weight oil 10 weight in the winter 30 weight in the summer they also in the same chart show that the use of 10w30 or 10w40 synthetic is now a recomendation of Briggs & Stratton.

I might add I ran synthetic oil in a 12.5 HP V-Twin Briggs & Stratton from 1992 to 2012, 20 years and over 1900 hours pushing around a 48" deck running a blower/bagger with no significant loss of power or oil consumption over that period what so ever. I sold it last year opting for a larger model and the new owner says its working flawless.