YTA24V48 - Clutch Anti-Rotation Pin keeps snapping!

[ILENGINE]

could the belt hop with loose mounts in a way that would load and unload it over and over?

I would remove the deck and check all the bearings and inspect the belt for damage. A belt with a bad spot can cause the problem you are seeing.

A bad spot in the belt would be more noticeable in the deck idler tension arm. The kind of force to damage the engine pulleys would be hammering the idler arm on the deck. Loose engine mounting bolts could cause issues because the damage is more relevant to a wobbling clutch pulley than a deck belt issue,

 

[MParr]

I see some damage to the wiring insulation close to the clutch. I see oil on the engine side of the clutch. Time to remove the deck and check the torque on all of the fasteners on the bottom of your mower. Pay particular attention to the bolts holding down the engine. Check all of the pulleys on the deck. The clutch bracket is shot.

 

[Hammermechanicman]

A bad spot in the belt would be more noticeable in the deck idler tension arm. The kind of force to damage the engine pulleys would be hammering the idler arm on the deck. Loose engine mounting bolts could cause issues because the damage is more relevant to a wobbling clutch pulley than a deck belt issue,

Had a cust with a simplicity broadmoor that had a spindle seize and locked up the deck so the belt slipped on the clutch and burned the width to about half. Cust replaced the spindle but not he belt. The foot long narrow spot in the belt made the clutch hammer back and forth and the tension idler arm jump like crazy. Strange thing was there was no abnormal sound.

 

[shas595]

All
just inspected the deck. All blades are even (not bent), and they spin freely and without and slop so spindles seem to be OK. All pulleys are tight, the one on the deck (not tensioner) has a very tiny amount of play, not enough to be concerned about in my opinion. Belt looks good, no worn spots or uneven areas. Going to check out the engine and frame shortly

 

[Gord Baker]

I think you are confusing effect damage with cause damage .
When the retaining pin sheared the clutch would have spun & that would have caused the damage in the photos
That clutch has been hammering the retaining pin far too much so something is causing the clutch to slam into the pin, back off & slam into the pin again.
Loose engine mounting bolts will do this
Failed belt tensioner will do this
Running a belt that is too tight & mowing thick tufted grasses ( or hitting a lot of tree roots or scaopling the ground a lot ) will do this
Running with a bent blade will do this
Failed spindle bearings will do this
A bent PTO shaft will do this
Running a deck that is too heavy for the clutch will do this .
A broken wire is the clutch coil that is consistantly making & breaking contact will do this
If that was in my workshop I would file that slot true then weld in a thrust plate so the pin only has about 0.030" of clearance .
Before that I would have run the engine for a few seconds to check the PTO shaft is not bent and of course given the engine a good shove to make sure it is tight in the frame .

This is going to be a difficult problem to diagnose because there are so many causes that could be the problem either by themselves or in addition to each other .

Excellent advice. A NEW anchor plate should be attached first. Present one has cracks and is distorted. If you have clearance, get a 1/8" plate cut, formed and drilled to cover the existing plate and seal well it all around the perimiter.

 

[Ranamow]

If the engine bolts are loose, when you disengaged the mower you will hear a hammering noise for a few seconds.

 

[VRR.DYNDNS>BIZ]

I think you are confusing effect damage with cause damage .
When the retaining pin sheared the clutch would have spun & that would have caused the damage in the photos
That clutch has been hammering the retaining pin far too much so something is causing the clutch to slam into the pin, back off & slam into the pin again.
Loose engine mounting bolts will do this
Failed belt tensioner will do this
Running a belt that is too tight & mowing thick tufted grasses ( or hitting a lot of tree roots or scaopling the ground a lot ) will do this
Running with a bent blade will do this
Failed spindle bearings will do this
A bent PTO shaft will do this
Running a deck that is too heavy for the clutch will do this .
A broken wire is the clutch coil that is consistantly making & breaking contact will do this
If that was in my workshop I would file that slot true then weld in a thrust plate so the pin only has about 0.030" of clearance .
Before that I would have run the engine for a few seconds to check the PTO shaft is not bent and of course given the engine a good shove to make sure it is tight in the frame .

This is going to be a difficult problem to diagnose because there are so many causes that could be the problem either by themselves or in addition to each other .

This reply in on point but did not list that the engine rpm is not steady, thus another back and forth against the pin. The pin and the hole in the clutch must be similar sized and the deck belt and engine rpm must not aggravate the pair.

 

[bertsmobile1]

This reply in on point but did not list that the engine rpm is not steady, thus another back and forth against the pin. The pin and the hole in the clutch must be similar sized and the deck belt and engine rpm must not aggravate the pair.

No arguement about that
Except that the engine rpm changes need to be fairly drastic .
In most cases it is just varying the pressure on the retaining pin rather than backing off and hammering the pin except when there is little to no load on the blades .
I think it was the Xmarks that I had to fit a rubber damper to the pin to stop it ratteling because it was so loud the customers kept bringing the mowers back for services .

 

[shas595]

Another update.
I noticed when I put the clutch back on, without the deck, and tightened it up, it instantly seized. As in even the loose ring up top was no longer moving. I am fairly certian thats not right.
I am noticing when I search for the clutch that matches my mower, it shows the clutch having what looks like a 1/4" rise above the bearing / face plate (see pic) where as mine (pic in original post) is flush. I am not sure which is correct, but that would make sense that its seizing up upon tightening. I need to get a definitive answer on what clutch I should have and what it looks like. Maybe this is the root of the issue?

 

[sgkent]

I noticed when I put the clutch back on, without the deck, and tightened it up, it instantly seized.

it sounds like your bearing has failed, and no longer spins properly. I'd replace it. You might be able to look at the other side and see if the bearing has moved, and left a witness mark where it was pressed into originally. The witness mark would be about the amount it used to be above the other side.