XT1, 7000 series

C

Ckain2026

Forum Newbie
I have one cylinder that is very weak. engine wont run on just that one. runs quite well on other side.
My spark checker shows no spark. Is there a common problem with this model/engine ?? Thanks.
 
fuel toair
compression
spark

If spark is missing on that side, need to figure out why. People will want to know the exact engine model, and serial number to assist beyond that.
 
What type of spark checker? Have you checked both cylinders to see if there's a difference? How do the plugs look? Do you have history with this machine, or is this machine "new" to you? If you have history, did this problem just show up after the machine laid up for the winter? Looking for some more info, and engine model is also important.
 
Ckain2026 said:
I have one cylinder that is very weak. engine wont run on just that one. runs quite well on other side.
My spark checker shows no spark. Is there a common problem with this model/engine ?? Thanks.
Click to expand...
If you are referring to a Kohler 7000 series twin cylinder having a no spark issue on one cylinder. No, that is not a common problem. Need more details to help.
 
Yes, it's a Kohler 7000, 22hp Briggs. I discovered the coils were sitting 'screwy'. Right side cylinder has working but coil was about .040 - .050 from the head and one side different then the other. Then looking at the left side coil, it was at .080 & 090. (stacking my feeler gauge)... I do not have a service manual and don't know if there is a recommended spacing, So I repositioned the non-running, left side coil to about 040. And then the engine would run with the right side plug wire disconnected. That was progress !!!
So checking You Tube, I see the common 'gap' tool is a piece of cardboard, like from the box a new coil comes in. I'm guessing .025, or so. Well, the engine now runs on either cylinder, when spark wire is off. Thats what I was looking for. What ya'all think ? Thank you.
 
Ckain2026 said:
Yes, it's a Kohler 7000, 22hp Briggs. I discovered the coils were sitting 'screwy'. Right side cylinder has working but coil was about .040 - .050 from the head and one side different then the other. Then looking at the left side coil, it was at .080 & 090. (stacking my feeler gauge)... I do not have a service manual and don't know if there is a recommended spacing, So I repositioned the non-running, left side coil to about 040. And then the engine would run with the right side plug wire disconnected. That was progress !!!
So checking You Tube, I see the common 'gap' tool is a piece of cardboard, like from the box a new coil comes in. I'm guessing .025, or so. Well, the engine now runs on either cylinder, when spark wire is off. Thats what I was looking for. What ya'all think ? Thank you.
Click to expand...
.010” or the thickness of a business card on coil air gap.
If you get no spark with coil kill wire on, you have more work to do. Check safety switches, etc.
 
Tiger Small Engine said:
.010” or the thickness of a business card on coil air gap.
If you get no spark with coil kill wire on, you have more work to do. Check safety switches, etc.
Click to expand...
ok, I'm getting spark and it's firing on both cyls now. So I just wanted to get it adjusted close to specs. I remember the business card gauge now that you mentioned it. I'm running at about .045, does spark increase, when the air gap is decreased. just curious. Thanks.
 
Ckain2026 said:
ok, I'm getting spark and it's firing on both cyls now. So I just wanted to get it adjusted close to specs. I remember the business card gauge now that you mentioned it. I'm running at about .045, does spark increase, when the air gap is decreased. just curious. Thanks.
Click to expand...
.045” is way too wide an air gap. If anything, spark decreases as the gap widens. Adjust to .010” for best results.
 
Coils need a clean mounting ground as well. Polish the areas where the coils sit and the screws plus where the screws sit.

Air gap at a max of 0.010".
 
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